Which revolver is better for reloading, 38 Special or 357 Magnum?

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Well, scratch the M10 from bud's - http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/910/products_id/411545790



Some days, I really really do not like this state. :barf:

So, what used 38/357 pistols are legal in CA? Obviously, anything new for sale at LGS is legal ... right? :rolleyes:
This gun is not legal in Calif.

Just out of curiosity why is a six shot 38 Special revolver not California legal? Granted I don't overly pay attention to California laws but a six shot revolver? Maybe someone familiar wit CA law could explain that?

Anyway, the S&W Model 10 would have been a good choice. S&W only made a mountain of them keeping the prices down and they are a well made revolver with a well proven track record. Long as you are good with fixed sights the Model 10 is a very good choice.

I would certainly assume anything sold at a local gun store is legal. Then too, while fireworks are manufactured and sold in Ohio it is against the law to shoot them off in Ohio. :)

This is a list by Bud's of California legal guns, including revolvers. I don't get it? Makes no sense why the Model 10 S&W would not be legal? Also, on the linked list is a S&W Model 10 Classic. Unless it has to do with being a used gun?

Ron
 
Well, I don't want to turn this thread into a "stupid CA" discussion but this thread kinda explains why M10s are not CA legal - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=676856

I guess if I want a used M10 or any other "off roster" revolver, I could always buy one already in CA used/via private party transfer (like my TCP 738). ;)

Sadly, here's a long list of revolvers removed from the CA roster - http://oag.ca.gov/sites/oag.ca.gov/files/pdfs/firearms/removed.pdf

Thankfully, as of 9/2/14, S&W added some revolver models to CA roster - http://oag.ca.gov/sites/oag.ca.gov/files/pdfs/firearms/recentlyadded.pdf


So if I want a new 4" revolver, it's down to limited selection of S&W, Ruger or Taurus - http://certguns.doj.ca.gov/safeguns_resp.asp

Only new Colt revolver I could buy on the roster is the 6" Python

For some reason, my coffee this morning tastes kinda bitter. :fire::D
 
Well California is what it is and I agree there is no sense in changing a bitch at CA. thread. Since it is what it is the bitching time would be best spent working within CA. laws and finding some good revolver solutions.

My advice would be to look for an already in CA. good condition lightly used revolver(s). :)

Ron
 
I agree. I will do some "window shopping" closer to retirement.


Since I will likely shoot lead bullets, are there brands/models with less leading issues?

Has anyone shot powder coated lead bullets and how is the leading?

Is there much difference in accuracy between various 4" revolvers?
 
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bds, there are a few threads that discuss the coated bullets, with good info (as usual). I recommend them for no leading, low or no smoke, and no lube gunk in your dies. SNS, Falcon and Bayou are products I have tried and like. There are others too. Good shooting.
 
I shoot Powerbond plated HP and SNS coated. Both shoot well with like said before no gunking up your dies like lubed bullets.
 
I agree. I will do some "window shopping" closer to retirement.
Since I will likely shoot lead bullets, are there brands/models with less leading issues?
Has anyone shot powder coated lead bullets and how is the leading?
Is there much difference in accuracy between various 4" revolvers?

Tomorrow morning as my old co-workers head to work I'll be heading for the range. You will love this retirement stuff. I went out May of 2013 at age 63 and today I wonder where I ever found time for work. :)

My opinion is as to revolver accuracy you get what you pay for. I do lean towards adjustable sights and the better made older revolvers. You buy a Colt, S&W or Ruger and you get a well made revolver. While I won't slam the others like Taurus or Rossi (I sold hundreds of them) I just don't see the quality I see in the S&W, Colt and Ruger revolvers.

Leading is for a very good part about your hand loads. There are countless threads on the subject in these forums. Regular complete cleaning is all the revolver needs even if leading occurs. There will always be some leading, good loading helps keep it to a minimum. While I don't shoot them plated bullets help eliminate leading also coated bullets. Since I don't cast I like to buy from companies like Missouri Bullet Company and like using the harder cast bullets.

Ron
 
"Since I will likely shoot lead bullets, are there brands/models with less leading issues?

Has anyone shot powder coated lead bullets and how is the leading?

Is there much difference in accuracy between various 4" revolvers?"


As I stated before, I'm partial to S&Ws. I can only speak of the revolvers of 30 plus years ago. The Smiths were king in my book. I don't remember seeing anything other than a S&W on the line in the hands of a serious competitor. I did have a Chief that thought the world of his Colt but then he couldn't hit much (did bounce a round off of his car hood one night during practical training - that was covered up quickly). Charter Arms at the time were crap. Ruger Security 6s always seemed nose heavy to me.

To your leading question. Leading is effected by bullet velocity/fit to the bore/fit to the forcing cone and how smooth the bore is. If you load and shoot cast bullets to a reasonable velocity, a Colt or Ruger or S&W and I am sure many other makes will do very well with no or little leading. Jumping to .357 Mags, well, jacketed or powder coated is the only sure way to make the blanket statement 'no leading'.

I powder coat my cast bullets, for several 30 rifles (300 BlkOut, 308 and 30-06) and push them to velocities that would make slick barrels if not coated. I have played with powder coated 44 Mags and my regular cast and lubed bullets don't lead at 1291 FPS [running average], the point that I start getting hard extraction. So I don't see much used in coating for pistol loads/velocities.

Accuracy is one of those things that one weapon is great and a duplicate can be crap. Longer barrels give longer sighting radius and a marginally greater velocity (weapon to weapon velocities will have greater velocity changes) and the added weight can add to stabilization of the weapon. The most accurate I have ever shot was a S&W Model 14 that had been re-barreled with the barrel from a Model 19.

My advise is find one that you like and shoot it 10,000 times. Put on grips that are solid in your hands and fit. You will be used to it and everything will be smoothed out. Oh, I also think that for the .38, the old 148 grain full wadcutters are as good if not better than all other loads. Yes those light 95 JHPs scoot a lot faster but just double tap with an easy wadcutter and be done with it. If you go with a fixed sighted weapon, try both 148s and 158 grain bullets to see where you hit.

Hope I helped.... (just get a Model 29 and load it back, it will do anything you need done and reloads won't cost much if any more, yea, an 'N' frame is bigger and heavier).

P.S. After your retire, you will no longer have week-end off.
 
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I've only had luck finding brass and powders for .38 Special lately. Haven't really seen a can of magnum pistol powder in at least two years. Otherwise, there's not much difference in reloading them. I prefer smaller and lighter revolvers for .38 Special, but wouldn't hesitate to buy a .357 revolver and shoot Specials in it if that was the best available option. Obviously that gives you a little more flexibility with components if for some reason you could only find magnum brass and primers too.
 
TLDR,

.38spl brass is cheaper and more available. It will also last damn near forever, and never needs to be trimmed. No worries about mixing ammo types. Less powder used for the same FPS, so a tiny bit cheaper there as well.
 
bds, buy a Colt Python, and if you don't like it, I will give you......let's see- $150 for it.
 
What do you mean, only $150? When they came out, they cost $125. What's wrong with a $25 profit? Except, of course, that you could probably get a $2500 profit on a first year gun bought new.
 
686 is a fine, fine weapon, everyone here has covered that aplenty.

If you think 38 - Might I suggest an older K frame 4" model 14 or 15. Triggers are superb, balance is very nice, and they are available with smaller and target grips for a variety of hand sizes. The pistol weight makes for easy handling. (can you tell I like K frames) and will last a lifetime of use easily.

In my area the 38's don't have much demand and can be found fairly cheaply. Gunbroker and armslist have quite a pile of them for reasonable prices as well.

As far as reloading goes I will stick my neck out and say that the 38 spl is probably the most forgiving round to load, with the largest number of powder and bullet combinations that will result in exceptional accuracy and flexibility. Just about any pistol or shotgun powder will work in them, outside of the magnum ones.
 
Love my Colt Python in .357
Lately I just load the .357s light if I want .38 Special level of power.
Most of the stuff I load comes in around 1000fps with a 140 or 158gr bullet.
(4" barrel)
Not super light but not heavy either.

I would say get a .357, just more flexible IMO.
 
I have a S&W M-10 and I really like the gun, I was tempted by a S&W M-67 w/a 4" barrel in very good condition at $500 I thought this would be a good trade up, but I know I would miss the M-10 so I passed.
I would get a k frame smith in 38spl and a ? 357 mag. Ruger or S&W.
 
357 and if you can buy a colt it is worth it I have had ruger smith and Taurus all have been great still I love the colts best Never had a Charter so no opinion on them .
 
A retirement gift to yourself I assume?

If it were me, I would go for the .357 without hesitation, but that's me, and I always go bigger.

But seriously, from a practical stand point, the .357 would be nearly impossible to wear out if all you plan to shoot is .38's, even if you shoot super potent loads. Carbon rings are so easy to remove, that I wouldn't even give that a second thought. Wrap some 0000 steel wool around a bore brush, a dip in solvent, and carbon be gone. I shoot a good deal of potent 38's through my .357's and they do develop some serious carbon deposits, but like I said above, they clean up in just a few short minutes. And if you do decide to just down load .357's, at least you'll have the option on the table with a .357, and as well the option to shoot full house loads if you ever feel the need.

As for which brand / model, I would probably go with a Ruger or S&W something, that part you'll have to decide by how it feels in your hands. But if it were me, I almost certainly go S&W, they're so clean and smooth, IMO. Whether you prefer DA or SA, snub or longer barrel, those are all things you'll need to decide for your self. Maybe rent / shoot a few, then decide based on how they handle for you?

GS
 
I don't think I saw the Ruger Security Six mentioned.

If you can find a nice one on the used market, it might be an excellent choice.
 
Just go with the gun that you want. A .357mag will do fine with either .38sp or .357mag. Reloading routine is the same for either. The cylinder crud is not that difficult to clean out. Don't let that deter you from a nice .357.

Lafitte
 
I shoot 38's in both of my 357's. Cleaning the cylinder is not an issue. I would clean them anyway. S&W model 19 is the nicest medium frame revolver ever made but I think they are out of production. I have several.

Just buy a 357. If you find some 357 brass lying around you can use it to load some cowboy loads that will shoot just like a 38.
 
Looks like the general consensus is to get the .357. I will also keep an eye open for certain good used 38 revolvers too.

I got an education on 38/357 revolvers for sure!

Thanks for all the help!
 
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