I was only gone a couple days , man you’ve been busy...The nice fellow at Foundations Stocks told me I would have to relieve the Area 419 rail at the rear because the Foundation has a slight rise in it from the rail in the stock to the front action screw, as well as some curve in the bottom metal after that.
I used a 4" angle grinder, a small bench grinder, and sandpaper to take some off on the bottom of the rail and round the end that will sit almost against the magwell. I drilled out the smaller diameter of the rear hole where they intend for you to use the front action screw to attach the rail at the rear. I have plenty of holes and slot to get two T-Nuts in the rear and three in the front. I drilled the hole out so I can remove the front action screw if needed without removing the rail. I need to touch it up with some paint and mount it.
Nothing special, and a mill would have done a prettier job, but this part of the rail doesn't really need to do much.
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you shot a match 10 thou into the lands?
How’d it shoot in the lands?I was about .010 into the lands when I thought I was just barely off of them. I knew I was close and may be just touching, but didn't think I was in that far.
Is this the Whidden unit you are using:What I am using to load the Dasher.
Wilson threaded FL bushing die
Wilson Micro hand die seater
Wilson case holder for trimmer
Whidden shoulder gauge (Works awesome)
I considered a set of Whidden dies, and I am sure they would be just fine, but ultimately went with Wilson.
That is what I had for my Benchrest gun.When my gunsmith rebarrels my rifle they usually cut a few inches off the end of the blank. Then they chuck maybe 1” length of scrap barrel up and use the Reamer to make a shoulder in it. It looks just like what’s in walklongs last pic and let’s you reliably measure distance from the shoulder.
I actually do have both, but am using the "Case Gauge", not the "Shoulder Bump Gauge". It works great.
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After my first order (Which included the SBG) they gave me a coupon for I don't
remember what/how much off the next order, and since I had almost ordered
the Case Gauge the first time anyway, I went back and ordered it, I am such a
sucker for cool reloading toys.
The Shoulder Bump Gauge would work just as well though.
I use some home made "Shoulder Bump Gauges" on other calibers, and they work just fine.
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What do they call it? I don't think I have seen one.I have a similar device from Wilson
When my gunsmith rebarrels my rifle they usually cut a few inches off the end of the blank. Then they chuck maybe 1” length of scrap barrel up and use the Reamer to make a shoulder in it. It looks just like what’s in walklongs last pic and let’s you reliably measure distance from the shoulder.
That is what I had for my Benchrest gun.
I think I posted with you before, it works in conjunction with the case guage. You slip the brass/bullet in the guage, then this contraption goes on top and has micrometer adjustment.What do they call it? I don't think I have seen one.
The link doesn't work for me.
You can use the Wilson case gauge to measure where the shoulder is prior to and after sizing because it is cut generously in the body and fired brass will usually slip into it. No extra gadget needed. Use the depth part of the dial or digital caliper to measure how deep (or not) in the gauge the case is before and after.