First attempt seating and crimping question

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stonebuster

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IMG_1454.JPG IMG_1463.JPG My Xtreme plated 158 grain bullets arrived yesterday and I tried seating and crimping a de-primed case. I used the deluxe Lee four die set (carbide) with the FCD. It probably should seat slightly deeper but I wanted opinions on how it looks. I will be loading HP-38 for 38spl. Hodgdon data for HDY XTP 158gr starting load at 3.8 and Max of 4.3. They show cast lead 158 LSWC at start of 3.1 and max of 3.7. I've read plated act more like lead and to choose somewhere in between. Plated data seems scarce so far.
 
Good use of data. Plated will develop pressures between cast and jacketed, and has a speed limit somewhere around 1200-1400fps, so your approach is sound.

Also, good crimp. Just don't overcrimp and cut the plate.
 
Plated data seems scarce so far.
There is actually quite a bit out there these days. You won't get in trouble with HP-38 unless you get carried away.

Starting lead data can sometimes get you in trouble with stuck bullets and max jacketed can sometimes be over pressure.

Hodgdon and Vihtavuori both have plated data in their online PDFs, Ranier used to publish data which can still be found.
Accurate powder also used to publish plated data.

Not sure if some of these old links work anymore.



I taper crimp my plated bullets in all applications. That includes the X-Treme 158 Gr SWC in .357 Mag cases.

Light plinker load with WST with a light taper crimp.
158 Gr X-Treme SWC .357 Mag Light Load @ 40%.JPG


A heavy taper crimp on a 125 Gr Powerbond HP.
Heavy Taper Crimp On 125 Gr Powerbond in .357 Pic 1 @ 75%.JPG
Heavy Taper Crimp On 125 Gr Powerbond in .357 Pic 2 @ 75%.JPG

And it shoots well.
Trooper Mk III and Powerbond 125 Gr HP with 8.2 Grs N330 - Load #116 Pic 2.JPG
 
I've read plated act more like lead and to choose somewhere in between.
That statement assumes all plated bullets are alike, which they are not. The plating thickness varies widely among plated bullet makers, and so how you work with the bullet also varies. Some plated bullets are no more than a copper wash. Those should be treated like lead. Other plated bullets are thicker than a copper jacket.
 
It probably should seat slightly deeper but I wanted opinions on how it looks.
Very pretty (from my SO). The crimp looks fine, and I wouldn’t worry about the depth yet. Xtreme says to use max lead to mid range jacketed, but also say some versions can be pushed to higher velocities. I would use jacketed data only, I’ve stuck plated bullets using lead data in the past. You do know they have a reloading manual?
https://www.xtremebullets.com/product-p/123123.htm
Good luck.
 
There is actually quite a bit out there these days. You won't get in trouble with HP-38 unless you get carried away.

Starting lead data can sometimes get you in trouble with stuck bullets and max jacketed can sometimes be over pressure.

Hodgdon and Vihtavuori both have plated data in their online PDFs, Ranier used to publish data which can still be found.
Accurate powder also used to publish plated data.

Not sure if some of these old links work anymore.




I taper crimp my plated bullets in all applications. That includes the X-Treme 158 Gr SWC in .357 Mag cases.

Light plinker load with WST with a light taper crimp.
View attachment 962201


A heavy taper crimp on a 125 Gr Powerbond HP.
View attachment 962202
View attachment 962203

And it shoots well.
View attachment 962204
Those bullets are works of art!
 
I would seat the bullet a little deeper, if it were me. Then the crimp has more room to roll into.

Kinda depends if one's cases are all the same length. Striving to roll into the center of the cannelure makes sure if cases are not exactly the same length, the crimp will still end up within the cannelure. Setting your die to roll into the very top of the cannelure of a long case, may mean missing it with a short case. Besides, it's the trailing edge of the cannelure, where the bullet increases in diameter again, that holds the bullet with a roll crimp.
 
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Thanks for the opinions, links and advice from all. I forgot to mention I pre-sorted my brass(all Remington UMC 38spl) before tumbling. I gauged the length on several which all measured the same. Now it's time to master the Auto Drum and double/triple check with the beam scale. With a little luck I can try out my first reloads late next week. I will only load a few until I see how they shoot. I'll use my GP-100 .357 to test my first reloads.
 
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