Lotsa squibs

Good advice. I carry one to matches. I’ve never needed it but have loaned it out several times.

And in a snap, 1/4" socket extension wrapped with paper towel/plastic cling wrap to protect the barrel works well to tap out the bullet.

No, Phillips head screw driver don't always work well because the pointed tip can dig into the bullet and expand the bullet instead of driving out the bullet (Don't ask me how I know this ... ).

I would prefer one to ensure they load ammunition correctly and if a short day at the range and a long ride home is all it costs, that might be better encouragement than a good squib rod.

That said, I always have a section of fairly large OD bronze filler rod in my range bag and have given many of them out over the years.

One thing I have come to believe as fact is, where one squib occurs, others are likely to follow without a change in method.

I suggest a piece of weedeater line as a clear-bore-indicator. Better than looking down the muzzle. A revolver will fully cycle on a squib and so you better be paying attention and if it doesn't sound right or you don't see where your bullet impacted on the target, check the bore with the trimmer string, not by looking in it. If your auto doesn't cycle, clear the jam and if there's any doubt that the bore is clear, check it with the trimmer string, not by looking in it. The trimmer string is also a cost-effective chamber flag and works well on long guns and even air guns (where a squib amounts to a loaded gun with a deceptively empty chamber) to indicate a clear bore. It's indispensable for any bore you can't see through from the breech end without disassembly.

I've read so many squib stories over the past 50 years.

I've fired at least over 100,000 rds at least over that time. Factory loads, commercial reloads, and my own reloads.

I have had exactly 1 squib in that time. A factory load. I don't condemn that brand of ammo. I figured it had to happen sometime.

The multitude of squib stories convince me that there are plenty sloppy reloaders out there.i read stories about people saying they only had one or two squibs in a hundred rounds and happy at that.

These same people insist on carrying their reloads for self defense. IMO they're stupid. My acceptable rate of squibs is zero.

Luckily for me I have yet to have one, but don't reload as much as some folks do, or load on a progressive. I use a Forster press and weigh just about every charge. It is a zen thing for me to just load enough for every range trip.

@jmorris - I was thinking the same thing. A squib shouldn’t just be a minor annoyance to just clear and get back to blasting. Some refection is in order regardless of whether the ammo is reloads or commercial.

IMHO, the vast majority of squibs are loading errors, don't think too many folks will disagree. A squib is an annoyance if caught before you fire again, but if you have left a case with NO powder, you are about as likely to DOUBLE charge a few. The above suggestions to clear a squib are excellent (really like the trimmer cord idea), but if you are getting squibs on your reloads you should really, really change your double checks during loading. A double charge will likely get your attention very quickly as well as those around you and can be SERIOUS to your gun and your health.

Is it true you can feel the squib? meaning little to no recoil? The weed wacker line pushed through the barrel seems like an easy check if there is a concern. I personally don't pay attention to where each round hits a target ... so, I kind of figure the day I do get a squib - think you'd notice something went wrong. Occasionally with .22 LR we get a dud, and as long as the bullet is still in the cartridge it just get loaded and shot again, always works. still never seen a squib with any center fire cartrdiges or rimfire too. Only issue I think is being mindfull of a dud maybe being a squib, and not racking or trying to fire again until the bore is checked. You know, this is when everyone starts yelling at the person firing to halt/stop, cause the instinct is to just try it again and see if it fires, but that is a mistake.

I have been reloading .380, 9mm, .38, .357mag, .40, .45, .30-30, .308 and 30-06 sense 1986. Thousands of rounds. I carry my own reloads (and I don't consider myself "stupid").

Never have I had a squib, NEVER!

bullseye308 said:

Don’t use wooden rods, sticks, or aluminum cleaning rod pieces, you are asking for trouble.

Click to expand...

Why is using properly sized wooden dowels for checking powder levels "asking for trouble"? I've used them 40+ years with no complaints.

Wooden dowels are lightweight, cheap, available in a multitude of sizes and can be easily "turned down" to fit any case with just a hand drill and some sandpaper.

I load a lot of reduced loads in large bottleneck rifle cases using Red Dot and Unique. I've never done any comparison testing, but it seems to me that a light wooden dowel would be less likely to push into and displace powder than a relatively heavy brass rod.

Swampman said:

Why is using properly sized wooden dowels for checking powder levels "asking for trouble"? I've used them 40+ years with no complaints.

Wooden dowels are lightweight, cheap, available in a multitude of sizes and can be easily "turned down" to fit any case with just a hand drill and some sandpaper.

I load a lot of reduced loads in large bottleneck rifle cases using Red Dot and Unique. I've never done any comparison testing, but it seems to me that a light wooden dowel would be less likely to push into and displace powder than a relatively heavy brass rod.

Click to expand...

Pretty sure he was referring to using them as a driving rod to knock a bullet out of the bore in the event of a squib, not as a powder check device.

I had a squib in 1970. I learned from that single faux pas. (I had to drive 1 1/2 hrs back home after only 7 rounds fired.). My lesson lead me to looking in every case I reload to make sure there is powder present. Evey case. I too include brass rods in my range bag but normally buy 4'-6' rods from a metal supply and cut them to length. Yes, one can tell when a squib is present, it's not difficult to "feel" a squib, actually you don't feel anything. After a bunch of years shooting my handloads my brain screams "Stop" whenever something is different when shooting. All my guns recoil, some a little (22 lr handguns) and some a lot (44 Magnum with near max loads). If my hand doesn't jump or I don't hear anything, I automatically stop and check out the gun, habit originating from fear (I have run into primer screw ups in my reloading career that I missed on final inspection). I've had many more 22 lr squibs/duds than my handloads, but that's another story...

I bought a couple 3/16"x48" brass rods about ten years ago and cut them to handgun lengths and rifle length. 3/16" is the most useful diameter. I have them with me whenever, I am at the range. I have helped out a lot of people. Especially, folks shooting AR's that have stuck cases or feed issues. Best wishes

Any solid soft material is good for a driver. Aluminum, brass, copper all would be fine. Wood dowels would be a way to get in trouble in a hurry. In a pinch I might even try a well fitting nylon rod. The bullet should not be stuck.

I always keep a brass squib rod in my bag. I go to Ace and buy the size I need for each caliber. I share the rest with my friends. I even have one for my .22. I've had a few squibs lately with factory .22s not going out the barrel.

AzShooter1 said:

I've had a few squibs lately with factory .22s not going out the barrel.

Click to expand...

What brand?

Rather than buying a brass squib rod at Ace, I decided to pay 5x as much plus shipping and got one at Brownell’s. But then mine is engraved with the identification of the caliber so it’s all good

CQB45ACP said:

Rather than buying a brass squib rod at Ace, I decided to pay 5x as much plus shipping and got one at Brownell’s. But then mine is engraved with the identification of the caliber so it’s all good

View attachment 1036759

Click to expand...

I take the barrels out of autos and push them forward. Jhps and others designed to expand will be harder to get out pushing from the front. Besides I like the full surface area on the base to push on.

AJC1 said:

I take the barrels out of autos and push them forward. Jhps and others designed to expand will be harder to get out pushing from the front. Besides I like the full surface area on the base to push on.

Click to expand...

Yeah I’d do that too—was just demonstrating

I had a clogged nipple on an old Spanish double-.50 rifle once and had to pull one of the balls out to clear it safely. Used one of those screw-in ball removers. They come in a range of sizes from .45 to .58 - great for BP and large-bore but not for anything smaller than a .45. Basically just a dry-wall screw on one end and a shaft threaded for a cleaning rod on the other. Shouldn't be too hard to make. I don't see why that wouldn't work if you are dealing with a soft point. An FMJ is another critter...

I've had a squib in my reloads and I used a wooden dowel to bang it out. There are several posts above that said not to use wooden dowels. For my own knowledge, why is that? Thanks