Silver solder

If he part is not going to be mechanicaly stressed, regular solder can ne used much more easily.

The important thing is to have both halves CLEAN. Apply any good wayer soluable flux, do not put solder on the flame. Heat the joint, remove the flame and touch the solder to joint. If it is hot enough, the sloder will flow into the joint.

It'll survive machining if you don't get carried away with the feed.

The item you referenced is used to sweat pipes. I would use a Flux paste on both surfaces and sweat it like a copper pipe. Apply heat gently and have the joint melt the solder.
Might want a thinner solder or a Flux core electronics solder.

YouTube. Tons of how to videos. A video is worth a thousand words.

If both items are plain brass (as they appear to be) then plain old low-temperature solder is the choice. MAPP gas is not needed, except for higher-temperature jobs. When Harbor Freight says that stuff is "silver solder", they are not being accurate. Read the ad and see where silver is mentioned as a component. It is truly lead-free, and that's it. True silver solder has silver in it. The HF stuff looks OK, especially considering the low melting point. Don't get it too hot or the solder will begin to degrade, and the flux will burn away. Whatever, take it slow and easy, and practice beforehand on some other bits of brass, since you say you have never soldered before. And take the advice about looking at youtube videos.

Brass to brass, I prefer Sil-Phos. No flux required and it's much stronger than plumbing solder.

Brownells Force 44 solder has a small amount of silver in and is available with flux core so no separate flux is needed. I have used it to attach shotgun Poly Chokes so it is plenty strong. Not sure what the melting temperature is without referring to the catalog but it is under 500 degrees. It’s not cheap but works great and is very convenient.

Kp321 said:

Brownells Force 44 solder has a small amount of silver in and is available with flux core so no separate flux is needed. I have used it to attach shotgun Poly Chokes so it is plenty strong. Not sure what the melting temperature is without referring to the catalog but it is under 500 degrees. It’s not cheap but works great and is very convenient.

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I've used it for years with positive results. Never had a failure with it.

The biggest mistakes people make using solder have been mentioned:

1. Unclean surfaces
2. Heating the solder instead of heating the metal and then touching with solder.
3. Overheating.

There is another obscure option if both parts are really brass. If you know someone who is a really good Tig welder, it can be tig welded. A race shop or aviation service shop would probably have such a person.
I have tig welded some brass parts, but nothing that small.