Sling stud filler screw?

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Tallinar

Tallinar

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Eastern IA
I have an H&R Classic Carbine that the previous owner had installed a rear sling stud in. I'd like to get rid of the sling stud to return it to a more classic look.

To keep things simple, I'm hoping there is such a thing as some sort of filler screw I can buy, just to fill the void and make the stock flush at that area. Does anyone make such a screw?

Alternatively, what would you suggest as the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks.

19570835-4CB2-4941-B38A-59921ECD2732_1_201_a.jpg
 
You could plug the hole with a wooden plug, but it would show.

Or, you could go with a cup-type receptacle for a push-button swivel. This would sit flush with the stock:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015390594

This would require enlarging the hole. Although the instructions say this could be glued in, it would be best to secure it with a wood screw.
 
What caliber is it 45 colt or 45 70? When was it manufactured 1948 for example? 'm just curious. Can we have a full picture of it?

Now to answer your question. The sling stud that is in place now looks like a run of the mill uncle mikes coarse thread with a furniture thread. Can you take it out to show us? If it is the only way cover up the hole would be to plug it with a hard wood dowel, epoxy or maybe place an ebony or ivory inlay in its place. It would be very difficult to match stain to such a nice walnut that has so much mineral inclusion and character.

Or you could put an inlayed cartridge holder in the sling studs place. That would certainly dress the old girl up with some class.
 
Mauser fan said:
What caliber is it 45 colt or 45 70? When was it manufactured 1948 for example? 'm just curious. Can we have a full picture of it?
Click to expand...

.45 Colt. I'm not sure on date of manufacture, but I'd place it in the last 30 years.

index.php
 
I like the front barrel band mtd sling mount ... it looks "classy" ... my thought would be keep it and install a flush mounted , push button type rear base . The flush cup is hardly noticable and when you want to sling the rifle the flush cup accepts the swivel... it plugs right in , push a button and the sling removes leaving the flush steel cup ... it's clean looking !.
Having that stud protruding down from the butt does look rather wonky .
Several companies make the flush mount sling swivels Williams is the one I have used with great satisfaction .
Gary
 
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gwpercle said:
I like the front barrel band mtd sling mount ... it looks "classy"
Click to expand...

Personally, I found the front stud to be just as much of an eye sore as the rear one. :)

I also found that the front stud has a tendency to shift around, and I don't like how it puts strain on the barrel finish. It has caused some scratching. I was also concerned -- perhaps needlessly -- that tightening it too much would impact accuracy, as it would affect the acoustics of the barrel. I think it's designed to be attached to a lever gun magazine tube, not a barrel. But it works, I guess.

Overall, I just don't find myself wanting a sling on this gun. I tend to use slings on rifles more as an actual shooting sling than for lugging them around, and the break action design makes a hasty sling impractical, as it puts downward force on the action, thus -- in my estimation -- actually jeopardizing accuracy rather than improving it. Plus, I have found that when the shelf/latch get dirty, this gun can actually break open under recoil (shooting only moderate loads), so I don't want to encourage that.

If I ever do manage to get this gun out deer hunting one day (something I've always wanted to do, but haven't had the opportunity), I'll be content to mount a temporary, studless-type sling.
 
I personally wouldn't have a clue as to who to suggest to install anything like what I suggested who lives within 100 miles of your location. The gunsmith who lives in my town certainly has the skill set but I don't know what his lead time is. Additionally he is only open on Fridays and Saturdays from 10am to 3pm. Toms gun and Archery (608) 524-3553 or you can contact NECG and find out who they recommend. Also keeping in mind that parts like that are becoming very hard to find. Smithing jobs like that is almost a lost art. Additionally I have the skill set and tooling also but I don't possess an FFL.

Stay tuned I'm sure that someone else will chime in with some ideas and more information for you to chew on.
 
Tallinar, the easiest thing to do with satisfying results will be to remove the plastic spacer, just slightly countersink the hole for the stud to sit flush, reinstall the stud again and file it matching the contour of the stock, then cold blue. Leave it to sit proud, about 0.02" - that way you will not have to refinish the stock. It will look just fine. If you wish to remove it some time in the future, a small drill and broken screw extractor will get the job done.
This is most definitely a walnut stock - birch doesn't have such visible pores and the grain and texture are quite different. 100% walnut.
 
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Determine if this will really be worth it first,:)

remove the sling stud. measure and buy the correct size plug cutter. Remove the back base plate, cut out a plug. Glue it into the hole from the sling stud. sand down and finish to match,
 
I know it's a wood project at hand, however I have found the low profile auto body panel fasteners to be very handy to plug the unsightly holes in the wake of removing unsightly sling
studs. No need to change the original hole diameter as you many want to restore the gun back to original situation. No harm-no foul. Also useful to secure mounting brackets to butt stocks and auto interior Safariland holster quick disconnect mounts.
A few examples:

IMG_8044 copy.JPG IMG_5311 copy.JPG IMG_8040 copy.JPG IMG_8042 copy.JPG IMG_9530 copy.jpg IMG_9531 copy.jpg IMG_9532 copy.jpg IMG_9533 copy.jpg IMG_9535 copy.jpg IMG_9537 copy.jpg
 
Blue68f100 said:
The grain will be running the wrong direction.
Click to expand...

Chisel a piece of wood out of the butt stock:) Drill a hole and collect the sawdust, mold it into some glue at least it is close to the color,

To me it it is all a waste of time and effort for such a small hole, Fill it with wood filler, dabble some grain lines and put finish on it,
 
On my workbench I have several old plastic pill jars with assorted "dust" from wood projects, Several with "dust" from SW grips (stocks) to fill in dings and such.Blend with some Tru Oil and it almost not noticeable,
 
We do acknowledge that:
- We can't refinish just a small portion of that stock and expect it to "blend in".
- That sawdust fill in such a big opening is going to be much darker than the rest of the stock, plus the above.
- You can't fill a hole in a radiused surface with a flat piece.
Don't we?
 
Mizar said:
We do acknowledge that:
- We can't refinish just a small portion of that stock and expect it to "blend in".
- That sawdust fill in such a big opening is going to be much darker than the rest of the stock, plus the above.
- You can't fill a hole in a radiused surface with a flat piece.
Don't we?
Click to expand...

Maybe "we" " or "you" can't
First you say such a small potion then say such a big opening?? How big you think the screw hole is??
You can't sand a small flat area to a very slight curve or radius?
 
I like the idea a5werks has in post #16 & 17 ... to use a black plastic screw to fill the hole .

My other thought was a small decorative inlay ... a small shield would look "classy" but a small silver oval would also be nice . Silver and brass being harder to work with ... a black plastic or ebony wood inlay would also look very nice too ... just a simple small oval . If round black plastic screw was inserted in the screw part and if the top was large enough , when carefully dressed down to match the curve of the stock it would appear to be a black oval and look dang neat . Plastic screw would be easy to remove in future .
Tape stock to protect the finish and no worries about refinishing .

The brass butt trap would be nice ...but only if you can find someone who can do a nice installation job ... a poor job just wont do in this case .
Gary
 
Mizar said:
We do acknowledge that:
- We can't refinish just a small portion of that stock and expect it to "blend in".
- That sawdust fill in such a big opening is going to be much darker than the rest of the stock, plus the above.
- You can't fill a hole in a radiused surface with a flat piece.
Don't we?
Click to expand...
You got a mouse in your pocket?
 
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