S&W Model 63 Value?

Model 63??

The S&W Model 63 has always been of interest to me, although I have never owned one.

Pros: Very fast .22 Jet round=Max explosive effects!
Can shoot .22LR. loads (If you have the inserts)

Cons: Very loud round to shoot (If shot without ear protection)
The .22 Jet Factory rounds very hard to find+pricey/.22 Jet brass the same.
There have been a lot of stories of the cyl. locking up with the Jet loads, due to case set back.-The tapered cases are known to set back, due to the extreme taper of the case. (.357 diameter case necked down to .22 cal.)
I have seen them priced $800.00-$1200.00=To me-Kind of high for a revolver that may or not hang up on shooting...Just my 2 cents worth..Bill..

>>Very fast .22 Jet round=Max explosive effects<<

That's a Model 53.

63 is a J frame revolver in 22lr.
I am on my second one, both early models, both seemingly made of the early S&W stainless which has a tendency to gall. About three cylinderfuls and you have to do a little lube/clean to keep shooting. It has become my "farm" gun, carried a lot, shot a little. I have others to burn ammo with.

For some reason, that escapes me, they seem to bring an exorbitant amount of money.
I've seen them on gunbroker go for $1200.

To me, that's just crazy. But any S&W revolver from that time in great shape, will be pricey.

Unless there is something really special and you value no lock a lot, I can't see a price that exceeds the current Model 63. Price is about $550-$650. I just bought a new one, but I understand I got a good deal. So, my price really has no bearing.

RUT said:

>>Very fast .22 Jet round=Max explosive effects<<

That's a Model 53.

Click to expand...

You are EXACTLY right==Brain Fart by billybob44++++Thanks Rut...

>>You are EXACTLY right==Brain Fart by billybob44<<

We'll just call it temporary dyslexia.

I have an early 63 that was made with a flash chromed hammer and trigger. I have not experienced any galling at all. I also frequent the Smith and Wesson Forum and have never heard of galling issues on this model mentioned there. I have heard of this issue on early stainless semi-autos.

I have a S&W 63 with 4" barrel which I bought used in 1981. I have not experienced the referenced galling either.

The 63 is on my short list of "the one handgun I would keep if I could only keep one."


.

I think the earliest ones had the flash chromed hammers. Mine was made in late 1980 or early 81 and has the flash-chromed hammers. The Model 63 began production in 1977.

I bought one used for 300 dollars. Sold it for about the same. Don't know if it was big hands not being able to fit the little J frame.

Was VERY inaccurate, with a variety of ammunition. Don't like inaccurate guns. Had a 3"
barrel, maybe a new barrel would have fixed it. Trigger, SA, was no creep, and less then 3 pounds. Weird experience with it.

>>Was VERY inaccurate, with a variety of ammunition<<

The Model 63 was a "plinker", and never intended for bullseye shooting.

I would look for stainless Rossi 51 or 515 instead. One in excellent shape can be had for around $200.

Dollar value (the old model) is unfortunately driven by collector syndrome, rather than by shooter value. That and woobie factor (for me a whole lot of woobie factor). They get rarer every year it seems, and pricier. Like rimfire-22 said, the old ones (in excellent condition) are costing more than the new ones are now.

I have no idea what the galling thing is either, mine doesn't, nor do any of the other SS S&Ws I own (j-60, k-66s), although might not be all that totally unexpected, as someone said, in an autoloader slide if run tight and dry.

Accuracy must vary. Mine shoots head to head with my k-17s (meaning great), despite 4" vs. 6" barrel sight radius for mine eyes. Decent DA trigger too, though not a k-trigger, as not expected. Having "too small" hands probably is an asset to the shooter (me) in this particular case. Bought mine LNIB "maybe unfired" about 3 years ago, a $500 nose bleed, but the woobie bear was gnawing hard on me. No regrets. Like j-frame said.

Never had any luck myself finding those Rossi versions for $200, (or finding hardly any of 'em period); looked for 'em, would have liked to sample one, but don't need one now. You can only have just so much fun.

Ready to find out how well a model 651 does for me. Sometimes you eat the woobie bear, sometimes the woobie bear eats you. Time to find out, I ain't getting any younger.

I have a 63 no dash model also, 4 inch barrel, and never experienced any "galling." It's reasonably accurate but I don't shoot it competitively, just at tin cans and paper. It's a lot of fun to shoot.

I have an early 4" stainless no-dash. No galling whatsoever and it will shoot minute of snake at 20 yards all day, but I have small hands. I'm like JFrame above, it's the last gun I would ever let go of. $1200 might turn my head, but only slightly. Maybe lots of folks feel this way and that's one of the reasons they're so highly valued. It's the 'sweetest' handgun I own.

I am beginning to wonder if we are misinterpreting the poster who claimed to have 'galling' problems with his 63. I am not to sure what parts of the 63 really rub together that could cause a stainless to stainless galling problem (other that some minor internal ones). Maybe he was referring fouling or lead build-up causing the action to bind somewhat. This can be a problem with Smith and Wesson .22s due to their fine tolerances. It is a condition I can live with. I love all Smith and Wesson .22 revolvers. Heck, I even have a Model 1.

Galling

Definition: A condition whereby excessive friction between high spots results in localized welding with subsequent splitting and a further roughening of rubbing surfaces of one or both of two mating parts.

Click to expand...

http://metals.about.com/library/bldef-Galling.htm

Never really heard of this issue. I don't think the OP has one with this issue, he is looking at buying a used gun and heard this word used on another forum.

I suspect same, i.e., that "galling" is being used as a generic term for something such as cylinder drag or binding in action, because he said it goes away when cleaned.
"do as little lube to keep shooting"

that can happen for example, with a very snug BC gap; have one k-17 that will do that after six dozen or so so rounds, powder residue on cylinder face, but easy wiped off, and it's my target one vs. my other other favored for "quick" DA one, so it doesn't bother me a bit)

whatever it is, "galling" just doesn't wipe off with a little lube, although I have never seen that in any SS revolver myself

I can only speak for new prices. My dad purchased a new Model 63 for between $550-$650, can't remember the OTD cost. He also installed a Hogue grip worth about $130. There are currently 2 Model 63's in my local gun store's shelve, 2 different barrel length, both are listed for over $600.

The currently available 63 is a 3" with an orange HiViz front sight, SKU #162634 & MSRP $769. Like the previous release, a 5" 63, which I also have, it is an 8-shooter. I re-sprung the 5"-er - but the 3"-er was slicker right out of the box - and it had a HiViz already - I had to add that to the 5". I bought the first 3" I found locally - the day before Thanksgiving - $631 + s/t - should be less now. Mine is a keeper. Why pay $700+ for an older 4" 6-shooter?



I subbed 60 Pro grips from S&W Accessories - great improvement - $43/ea + s/h. My 4" 617 has some serious competition, range-time wise, in that 3" 63 - it's a great plinker.

Stainz