What's a tough, utilitarian, and durable .357 double action revolver?

@ MachIVshooter: Who said anything about loads that push bullets "in excess of their intended velocity"? The discussion, as always, is around hot 125gr loads. I don't think a factory Remington load, for example, pushes the bullet in excess of their intended design considering that they designed and loaded the round themselves.

around 1450 ft/s is the intended velocity of traditional 125 grain .357 loads ... Of course, intended velocity should probably read 'ideal' velocity and varies by bullet design, expansion, penetration, and other factors effecting performance that are taken into consideration by the manufacturer.

@ MachIVshooter: Who said anything about loads that push bullets "in excess of their intended velocity"? The discussion, as always, is around hot 125gr loads.

Click to expand...

The OP:

110 grain bullets moving at warp speed or 180gr bullets moving fast I want to be able to shoot it all without worry and do it a lot.

Click to expand...

The newer Smith revolvers I've bought have had horrible accuracy and I ended up selling every one. If you can get your hands on a pre-lock 586 or 686 you'll be very happy.

I like the current Rugers better than the older 6 series---I always thought their grip frame angle was very awkward. Plus if you buy one that's sufficiently old the newer aftermarket grips won't fit it.

I think the talk about the K frame not holding up was based on police training guns that saw hundreds of full-power rounds a week. My first centerfire handgun was a 4" model 19 (pinned and recessed) my Dad gave me in 1980 and it's seen a LOT of heavy handloads. It's still holding up fine. So you might throw a model 19 or 66 into the mix as well.

GP-100
Colt Trooper, Mk III

So you might throw a model 19 or 66 into the mix as well.

Click to expand...

Or a 13 or 65, since you said you wanted fixed sights.

Every one has been tunnel visioned into the "big three" and noone has mentioned the lowly Taurus. I have one in stainless that has been my hunting sidearm for many many years. Have consistantly fired +P in it.

Every one has been tunnel visioned into the "big three" and noone has mentioned the lowly Taurus. I have one in stainless that has been my hunting sidearm for many many years. Have consistantly fired +P in it.

Click to expand...

There's a reason. Too much chance of getting a real POS that you never can get to work properly. (I have one) I'm glad you got a good one; you should play the lottery.

S&W 65 Easy on the super mag loads
S&W 681 Shoot -Em Up!
EOD... (End-Of-Discussion)
just a thought!

I have about 5 S&Ws for every Ruger revolver I own. If I were to have all my revolvers burn up in a fire or get stolen (God forbid!), the first gun I would get would be a 6 inch GP100. Smiths, though wonderful pistols, are just too much money for what you can get in a GP100. Plus, no internal locks or MIM parts on a new GP100. Not that either are a big deal to me, I have several Smiths with both, but the fact is that the Smith aren't 100% stainless steel and will rust more easily than a Ruger. I prefer no internal lock for aesthetic reasons.

If you could find a used, older 686, for a reasonable price, jump on it. Otherwise, if buying a new gun, definitely a GP100. Ruger is currently stocking a 3 inch, fixed sited gun.

-John

I will agree with those suggesting the Ruger Police Service Six. I love my S&W 586 and 686 4" revolvers, and my Ruger SP101 2.25", but my father-in-law's Service Six 4" is as fine a gun as these, and perfectly matches your requirements.

My knock around gun is a stainless Ruger Speed Six with a 2 3/4" barrel. I'm old enough to have stopped enjoying recoil, so I shoot only moderate loads. I expect the Six to outlast me, my son, and probably my grandson.

Eaa .357


kkkkfl

Without a doubt...Ruger GP-100 in 4" and 6" barrel configurations! That's my .02 worth anyway.

S&W 586 and 686. Also look at the Ruger GP100.

if you want something that is tough and don't care about looks or trigger pull...buy a Ruger GP100.

If you want something a little nicer buy a pre MIM Smith 686.

I have Security Six, Service Six, Speed Six, GP-100, as well as K, L, and N frames. From 2 1/2 M66 to 2 3/4 Speed/Security six, to 3 inch L frame and GP100. And 4 inch N frame, Security SIx, and Service Six handguns.

Yea the Rugers are the toughest. If you can't find a good tight Speed Six or Security Six I'd recommend the 3 inch GP-100. Excellent weapon and if it runs out of ammo you can still use it as a rock.

Deaf

IMHO-----NOTHING can beat a Ruger GP 100. Tough, durable, reliable, will shoot just about anything you can put in it and the cost is usually less than a Smith.

GP100 all the way. The Ruger is the definition of rugged reliablity and craftsmanship.

I debated heavily, at length, before getting my revolver.

The GP100 (4" stainless) is the best, I'm ecstatic about it.

I just bought a Rossi 357... http://www.rossiusa.com/product-details.cfm?id=140&category=1&toggle=rv&breadcrumbseries=R357

I know, I know....its not a S&W or a Ruger...but I'm not a wheelgun guy anyway...I just wanted a 357, LOL...a knockaround gun.

It was cheap ($300, came with 3 boxes of ammo, reloading dies, some brass and bullets, and a cheap holster) I bought it from a buddy who only had it 2 weeks (spent $$$ he didn't have when he bought it)...he only fired it 12 times.

It has adjustable sights...as to how tough it is...I don't know.

EDITED TO ADD: I did not buy it for a carry gun...too darn heavy for that...and my G36 is much better suited to that task.

If you aren't particularly concerned with how reliable or durable it is, do not plan to put it into a defense of life role, and probably won't shoot it a whole lot then yeah...go with something cheaper.

I'm a S&W guy but if you want tough then Ruger is the brand known for toughness. Any of the six line or the GP will take anything you can dish out. They may be a bit bulky and not have the graceful lines like a S&W or Colt but that bulk is why they are so darn tough.

Great! Rugers are "tough"! Not really--your cartridges must still be within specification. They will not withstand abuse any more than a Smith & Wesson or Colt will.

Ruger triggers are not that great. A good gunsmith can tune the trigger of Smiths and Colts. Since trigger control is the key to accuracy, especially for rapid fire, the inability of Ruger revolver triggers to be tuned in a meaningful way is a huge drawback. None of this means the Ruger cannot be learned; you just need to know what you are doing.

Get a Smith & Wesson or Colt and you won't be sorry. If "The S&W Lock" is a concern for you, then purchase a good prelock model 586 or 686.

Rugers are, at least from the factory, oversprung. Wolf makes excellent springs that will help, and then add such as Micro-lube to the inside and a bit of polishing hand the Rugers become quite nice (I've done this to several of my Ruger revolvers.)

Yes they will never equal a S&W that has a good action job done to them but my Rugers have not only very good triggers but are zero-zero (that is, no end shake or crane shake.) I even replaced the bolts and, when the hammer is cocked and then let down with the trigger pulled there is no cylinder play.

As for overloads, you can overload a Ruger Redhawk .45 to .44 magnum power, and the S&W N frame .45 LC can't go that far.

Dunno about overloading the GP-100, but I do know about the Redhawk.

Deaf