Ruger Old Army -puzzlement

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Wolfebyte

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I recently acquired a Ruger Old Army..

it's kinda rough, but shows that it's been shot and carried, not a safe queen.

from the 140 serial number it shows that it was made in 1977, before the days of the billboard warning all over the barrel..

It came as is.. no box, no wrench.. the grips have been swapped out with Hogue grips... but an interesting hammer.

Mine is skeletonized with 4 holes.. 2 smaller toward the spur, a larger one in the apex and a smaller one just below it..

no markings on the hammer.. Is this an aftermarket or obscure stock?
 
I think someone did that in their garage. The holes aren't centered or spaced very well except for the lowest one.
 
ROA

Wierd,but like you said it's no safe queen so just enjoy the heck out of shooting it
 
A lighter hammer would speed up the forward hammer movement.
Similar to using a lighter bat in baseball which would increase the bat speed.
 
The guy who skeletonized this hammer also thought it looks cool to hold his ROA canted 90 degrees while shooting it...
 
I agree ...this was a garage/drillpress/homestyle mod.... some who are inexperinced with the ROA.....the misfires of percussion caps...leads some to think a faster strike will cure a misstake in seating the caps fully
 
If a gun could speak then what would it say?

Here's excerpts from a thread about installing skeletonized hammers on Ruger double action pistols that are used in IDPA competition.

http://idpaforum.yuku.com/reply/58259/Re-Stock-modified-hammer#.UL5LXSBnHT4

Gregg Kratochvil Post #6 said:
A lighter hammer moves a litter faster which allows you to run a little lighter spring tension and still get good ignition with a little less trigger pull.
Click to expand...

robertbank.czechpistols82792 Post #11 said:
Chuck over on the Ruger forum guys have done it to their GP-100's. I, like you, would just grind off the hammer spur or buy a spurless hammer. I tried going to a lighter spring on my Ruger but ran into light hammer strikes and that can be a killer in our game. Fast and reloads don't go in the same sentence when I shoot revolver.

Take Care

Bob
Click to expand...

And here's another excerpt about the reason for installing a skeletonized hammer and wanting a faster lock time on 1911's.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=123886

TY44934 Post #4 said:
"No human being can tell the difference in lock time "
Click to expand...

Maybe a human cannot tell, but the target sure can show a difference. Try shooting a precision 10 Meter air pistol & you'll see that lock time matters.

A simply skeletonized hammer might not have much effect, but a hammer like the Koenig speed hammer will. Koenig knows what works. Reduced lock time works when it comes to fine accuracy work.

Regards,

D.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Clearly they're a natural Phenomenon...like crop circles or the holes in Swiss cheese.
 
ok, ok...

Now the panel of experts had concluded that it's not stock, not factory, evidently user customized..

who has parts in which I can replace it with? ...


(tough crowd...)
 
I wouldn't worry about it if it functions correctly. Unless you just don't like the looks of it anymore. :p

J-Bar said:
The guy who skeletonized this hammer also thought it looks cool to hold his ROA canted 90 degrees while shooting it...
Click to expand...
I thought all the really cool kids rotated theirs 180*.
 
You could always fill the holes in with lead.
It may take a little longer to get there but it would really knock the starch out of some caps.
Filling the holes in with brass and mirror polishing would be awful pretty though.
Where others see problems I sometimes see potential.
In this case I may need to have my eyes checked.
Luck.
 
Mk vii

Ruger informed me about a week ago they no longer have any parts or do any repairs on ruger old army's
 
I'd find drill rod, cut it to length, file and then solder them in place.
 
Rodwha,

not really.. just aesthetic purposes I guess.. entertaining some different thoughts about the ROA.. smooth out the scratches and dings, stretch the trigger guard to facilitate a gloved hand.. Not sure I I want to go back with the caustic blue or look at some of the newer choices.. Duracoat, Cerakoat perhaps?
 
Your best bet is to see if David Clement has a "take off" hammer from one of his ROA projects.
 
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