Sorting brass by brand or weight

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Kachok

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Mabey a sily question, but if you have a mixed bag of brass and some of the brands overlap in weight would it be better to sort out the Rem, Fed, Win and Norma headstamps or is the weight the most important. Most of my brass I get "once fired" for dirt cheap from the local range and they have everything mixed in. Is it safe and accurate to use Fed/Rem/Win brass with the same charge if they weigh close to the same?
 
head stamp sorting is way more important, imop. just the differences in case wall thickness is enough for me to sort by manufacturer.

murf
 
I sort by head stamp, but not weight.If I was good enough to shoot at the National level, I might sort by weight, but I'm not and I don't. Lightman
 
The way I have been doing it is using one brand for each different load type. For example my Rem brass used for my woods hunting load (usualy a SGK at a sub 2850fps speed) my Federal for my yote blasting load (light HIGH speed poly tipped) and my Prvi for my target loads (high BC bullets at whatever speed that rifle likes the best) and so on. It has worked for me so far, but I was thinking that brass of similar weight would have to have similar wall thickness and case volume no matter what the brand since they all use only slightly different grades of brass.
 
if its a low charge plinker like a .223 or a pistol cal, I dont really worry about HS. For rifles its all sorted by # of time fired, HS, and which rifle it came from (if I have 2 rifles in same cal) I havent gotten in to weights yet.....
 
kachok,

my post regards, mostly, revolver cartridges and their penchant for pushing bullets out the cylinder during heavy recoil. specifically, the 357 magnum case wall thickness variations between manufacturers.

rifle cartridge cases, on the other hand, are not so dependent on case neck tension for reliable shooting. still, i sort rifle cases by manufacturer.

i still think there are differences in the cases behind the web. rims a little different, primer pockets a bit deeper or shallower, rim cut-outs cut different.

i think all these differences can affect the cartridge weight without affecting the internal case volume. so, i don't put a whole lot of stock in weighing cases.

if i suspected a large difference in case volume, i would check the volume of the case.

murf
 
I always sort pistol (9mm and .38 Special) brass. One, it gives me another reason to look at each piece, and two, because different brands "feel" different in the press and I think it could madk a problem with a case. I found this particularly with .38 Special brass using a Lee Turret press.
 
I never do for pistol.
For rifle, I used to but am thinking more and more that it doesn't matter. At least not for me. Maybe I'm just not good enough to see the difference. I know with my handloads I can take a load of three different head stamps and shoot a moa group. I've done it several times. If your going for competition accuracy where you need much tighter than that, then maybe you have something, but I don't shoot competition.
 
for 38, I just sort out the dreaded winchester brass... rp, pmc, agulia, sb, ppu, federal etc brass all easily seats primers. If im not paying attention and load up a box of win without putting that extra pressure on the downstroke while priming, 10% of the brass has high riding primers.

for 223 I keep pmc and RP headstamps together and I separate lc and FC. fc tends to be really short at 1.743ish vs the 1.755 I trim everything else to.
 
Is it safe and accurate to use Fed/Rem/Win brass with the same charge if they weigh close to the same?

I use brass of many diffferent types, but keep it separate and will load different for each. For example in 308 I may load 150's in Rem brass and 165's in Win Brass. It makes it easy to know which is which if I ever get 2 rounds mixed up.

To be honest I cannot really tell any difference between Rem and Win brass and could probably get by loading them interchangeably. I can tell a big difference in Fed brass. With the same powder charge the load will be 50-75 fps faster, and if working close to a max load you may be too hot in a Fed case, and not with the others.

I still use the Fed brass, just reduce the load slightly to get the same velocity and load them with a difffernt type bullet for easy identification. For example I may use 150 gr SP bullets in the Fed cases and 150 gr SST's in Rem brass.
 
I sort when I package them up. I find that mixed brass is less accurate in my target grade guns then my production guns. If you are banging away with a factory Glock you might not see the issue, but if you are shooting a Custom Sig 210 you probably will or at least I did.
 
Well lets see if I can put this in type ???

I become more cautious/careful & alot more attentive `bout the brass,primer,powder & projectiles as pressures go up !!

I for 1 load my SD ammo , the last 357 rounds took me 2hrs to inspect & asm. 50 rnds.

The last check is that every rnd. must chamber in every revolver used for SD.

Time consuming, yes, cost feasible ?? probably not (factoring in my time) but 110% satisfaction !!!
 
I do not sort hand gun cases except to cull undesirable head stamps. If I was shooting competitively, I would shoot only one head stamp.

Rifle, I sometimes sort, sometimes not depending on...

1. I have several rifles that cases are only available from one source (221 Remington, 17 Remington). Not much choice there. Easy to "sort".

2. When i shot Service Rifle, I shot only one brand of cases in my match rifle. My 223 Remington blasting ammunition is mixed head stamp though.

3. I buy less and less mixed head stamp batches of brass and I do not shoot where I can get range cases so i am starting to buy single brands of cases for my various rifles. As the odd head stamps get consumed, they will not be replaced.

When I shot skeet competitively, I settled on buying one brand of ammunition for each gauge. It made reloading the hulls for practice easier as I only had to stock one style of components for each gauge.

I fooled with weighing cases for a while. I am not a good enough shot to see a difference or shoot at a game where it matters so I do not bother weighing cases any more.
 
For my rifles, I sort by headstamp, then weight. Some folks think that since their skill isn't that of a benchrest shooter, that it's not important. I think that every advantage I can take with my ammo will help to make my skills better.
 
I only sort when I am working up a load. I do this to control variables. Once satisfied with a load I will load without sorting. If there are any hiccups I will make a note of the head stamp involved to see if the problem was particular to a specific head stamp.....makes sense to me anyway.
 
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