Lee Perfect Powder Measure problem.

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Got to the range early Saturday morning and I shot an array of loads for my 7mm-08. I had some good groups and finally got to see how my new seater die was grouping.

I was shooting the last of the "tried and true" loads my rifle likes with H380 and 139gr Hornady sp. With the whole lot shooting just as I suspected, I had put the last 3 rounds in the mag. When the first round was fired it had a bit more recoil than the others. The brass flowed into the ejector hole and was barley visible and the primer was flat as a pancake. I used 46.1 grains of H380 and the bullet was at 2.853 OAL and was off the lands a good bit.
The second round fired caused smoke to come out the vent ports and was a bit sticky to remove. Upon removal the primer fell out of its pocket. This once fired Hornady 308 match brass had a good bit of brass flowing into the ejector hole. I stoped shooting, packed my gear, and left for home!

All my H380 loads were thrown using the Lee powder measure. These loads where also not weighed as H380 meters very good.

After I'd made it home I inspected the powder measure and noticed the fine spherical powder stuck in the hub area. I took the measure apart and got a good bit of powder from around the hub. I put it back together and threw a few charges and noticed powder leaking out of the side after about 5 cycles. I took it apart again and laid the hub flat on the table and noticed it was racked. I guess I have stuck a granule of stick powder for so long that it will be warped for good. I suppose after 8 or so years it's time for an upgrade!
 
The perfect powder measure doesn't work real well with fine powders but great for flake and stick powders. I use one mounted on the die with my 45-70 however for the pistol loads I just used the Lee Pro Powder Measure.
 
You might be able to salvage it by lapping the two halves of the measure body with some valve grinding compound.
 
I found that I had to put a shim in place to put pressure on the opposite side of the Rotor to stop the leaking.
Measurefix_zps360a2e50.jpg
 
I haven't had a problem with my Lee PPM yet but then again it's only about 6 years old. I also have a Lyman #55 which is probably the best powder measure on the market in it's price range.

Very good first post Wheeljack, welcome to the forum...
 
How do you guys post pics with arrows and labeling on them and such?
Edit the picture with software like Photoshop or even the free Microsoft Photo Editor that comes with the newer versions of Windows and then post the picture.

*EDIT*
I just looked at Photo Editor and I don't think you can add text with that one but there are free editors on the Internet that will.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironworkerwill
These loads where also not weighed ...

Wow. Really? If that's a common practice of yours, you may want to question any and all of your existing handloads.
Yea, really! I usually weigh every so often: the first, every five, and the last. I've thrown H380 so precise with the PPM I really didn't need to. This time I only weighed a few of the first throws to make sure, like I always do, and no I didn't measure the 5th or the last. There was only 10 rnds in the whole batch.
 
Yea, really! I usually weigh every so often: the first, every five, and the last. I've thrown H380 so precise with the PPM I really didn't need to. This time I only weighed a few of the first throws to make sure, like I always do, and no I didn't measure the 5th or the last. There was only 10 rnds in the whole batch.
Ah, my bad. I got the (incorrect) impression from your original post that you simply trusted your measure set up and started throwing charges.
Fortunately, there was no damage. Glad that part worked out for you.
 
You might be able to salvage it by lapping the two halves of the measure body with some valve grinding compound.
+1. I've fixed two of them, that way.

Some take more work than others. This one was giving me grief, so I whipped up an adaptor to do the lapping with a cordless drill.

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/SAM_aa.jpg

H335 is the main powder I use in my PPMs, and that's finer than H380. I don't have any leaks, at all. H110, OTOH....
 
I know it slows me down...

but I just use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure to put the powder into the tray on my scale, I weight every single time I dispense the power, then I pour into the brass. I have a single stage loader, so I'm not going for speed.
 
Mine does the same thing with Bullseye, leaks. I refuse to buy another lee powder measure and i don't want to spend $80-$100 on a good one. So instead i stuck $100 into a coffee can and labeled the can "Dillon 550 Savings Fund".
 
I know it slows me down...

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but I just use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure to put the powder into the tray on my scale, I weight every single time I dispense the power, then I pour into the brass. I have a single stage loader, so I'm not going for speed.

You got way more patience than I have.

Even benchrest shooters seldom weigh each and every charge. And they are about as precise as one can get.
 
weighing the charge more often would probably help prevent this. I like to measure every 10th (I only load 9mm at the moment) just because I'm a worry wart and like to know my material is accurate. My PPM is never off more than + or - .1 of a grain - I think that's accuracy I can live with.
 
I use a dipper to load 30-30 plinking loads, and never ever weigh the charges. That's why I made a dipper to measure out 12 grains of trail Boss. The dipper does not change volume from one session to the other.
 
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but I just use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure to put the powder into the tray on my scale, I weight every single time I dispense the power, then I pour into the brass. I have a single stage loader, so I'm not going for speed.
I do exactly the same thing. Started loading 223 not too long ago and want make sure I have no issues. That is until I get the second set of discs for my lee pro auto disc...
 
I did not find my lapping compound, so I fit lapped it with fine grit sandpaper. It worked a LOT better! I saw some small voids where the drum was not making contact with the rotor. Oddly, one void was between the feed and discharge areas. After the lapping H380 didn't leak a single granule. Thanks guys!

As a side note: Anything mechanical is will fail eventually. Complacency and overconfidence caused the most danger. I did not follow through on my S.O.P.
 
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