Disassembly instructions for Rogers & Spencer

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Dframe

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I've been looking for detailed disassembly instructions for Rogers & Spencer replica revolvers. Not looking for field stripping, already know how to do that. What I need are detailed directions for the action since mine needs a bit of work. Does anyone have a source. I don't want to get into it and have something "Boing" on me.
 
Pretty straight forward, after removing the cylinder and pin.
1. Remove grips then main spring
2. Remove trigger guard
3. Remove leaf spring on the bolt and trigger
4. Remove bolt and trigger
5. Remove hammer screw
6. Lower hammer into the frame and remove hand and spring group
7. Remove hammer
Reverse process to put back together...easy, peasy!
 
I thought as much but how to handle removing the mainspring..............
It's a pretty powerful spring and as a single it can't be compressed like a V spring could.
 
rest the base of the frame on a block (I use an oak platform, with the grip alignment pin hanging over the edge), Drive it out from the bottom using a brass punch and hammer. To replace it, I use a small pair of vise grips with copper pads soldered to the jaw tips and after putting the top end in place, I bend the spring till the bottom is lined up with the slot, then tap it in place...might not be the "professional" way to do it, but I've always had success with that method, and no breakage.
 
sltm1 said:
rest the base of the frame on a block (I use an oak platform, with the grip alignment pin hanging over the edge), Drive it out from the bottom using a brass punch and hammer. To replace it, I use a small pair of vise grips with copper pads soldered to the jaw tips and after putting the top end in place, I bend the spring till the bottom is lined up with the slot, then tap it in place...might not be the "professional" way to do it, but I've always had success with that method, and no breakage.
Click to expand...
Thats how i do it also, it is a very strange setup i dont care for how it comes apart but everythign else about the gun i like.
 
OK. Finally got the spring out last night. I used a padded vicegrip to release some pressure and got it to pop out. The rest as they say was easy. once I get the hand spring replaced/repaired the reassembly should be simple except for that (cussword) main spring. Not looking foreward to putting that back in. Thanks for the help guys. A previous owner had modified the mainspring and I MAY have to retension it for reliability.
 
Where did you find the parts? i broke the little spring on my hand also but i havnt located a spring to fit it yet.

The hand is still good just the little spring broke off.
 
A good cheap source of small flat springs is to cut them from binder clips, available at any office supply store.

Jim
 
Jim K said:
A good cheap source of small flat springs is to cut them from binder clips, available at any office supply store.

Jim
Click to expand...
DUDE! you are the man! that took all of 5 minutes to fix.

Now my Rogers is BACK in action!

Its a hair thinner then the stock one but a little tape or paper should tighten it up to hold in the hand.

That worked great!

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Now, if you will custom fit (or tune) that spring to just do it's job without the added stress that shortened the life of the other one, you will be even happier with your Rogers. The action over all will be smoother.

45 Dragoon


p.s. don't think tape (not even duct tape) will work. It aint a toy.
 
45 Dragoon said:
Now, if you will custom fit (or tune) that spring to just do it's job without the added stress that shortened the life of the other one, you will be even happier with your Rogers. The action over all will be smoother.

45 Dragoon


p.s. don't think tape (not even duct tape) will work. It aint a toy.
Click to expand...
Yes yes i know, ill need to go and get a thicker binder clip if i want it to fit correctly.

I dont know how to tune it is the problem.

I bought a new bolt/cylinder stop for my .36 cal and it now feels sloppy. I had to use a dremel and grind down the one i got to match the stock one that broke. It atleast works now but doesnt feel as tight as it once did.

Least they all work now, i hate having that in the back of your mind (2 of my guns are broken, 2, 2 of them dont work at all) i hate that.
 
Bower, when you say sloppy, do you mean cylinder movement when it is locked up? Your use of the word dremel scares me. You need to get a set of small files, a hard stone and a drill press vise for use on a table top. You need to fit the bolt head to the stop notches, 10 degree slope from the leading edge or high side of the head to the trailing edge. Using the vise helps you make sure you keep the sides parallel (do not make a wedge shape out of the head of the bolt). Where the arms meet the bolt, is the opening squared or rounded? It's prob. square. Use the small round file and the vise and make it round ( U not [ ). The left arm of the bolt needs an angle on the upper most part to allow the hammer cam to push it aside as it comes back to rest. Likewise the arm needs to snap back over the cam just before the hammer comes to rest (last click you hear when that happens). The timing of the bolt drop (or rise) should be in the approach (or lead ) if there is one. Remys don't norm. have them. Each bolt is a custom fit so it's hard to think you can do it with a dremel.

45 Dragoon
 
45 Dragoon said:
Bower, when you say sloppy, do you mean cylinder movement when it is locked up? Your use of the word dremel scares me. You need to get a set of small files, a hard stone and a drill press vise for use on a table top. You need to fit the bolt head to the stop notches, 10 degree slope from the leading edge or high side of the head to the trailing edge. Using the vise helps you make sure you keep the sides parallel (do not make a wedge shape out of the head of the bolt). Where the arms meet the bolt, is the opening squared or rounded? It's prob. square. Use the small round file and the vise and make it round ( U not [ ). The left arm of the bolt needs an angle on the upper most part to allow the hammer cam to push it aside as it comes back to rest. Likewise the arm needs to snap back over the cam just before the hammer comes to rest (last click you hear when that happens). The timing of the bolt drop (or rise) should be in the approach (or lead ) if there is one. Remys don't norm. have them. Each bolt is a custom fit so it's hard to think you can do it with a dremel.

45 Dragoon
Click to expand...
I dont want to hijack this guys thread so im going to make a new thread we can talk about it over there. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=729099
 
Last edited:
Now, if you will custom fit (or tune) that spring to just do it's job without the added stress that shortened the life of the other one, you will be even happier with your Rogers. The action over all will be smoother.

45 Dragoon

I did a little fitting of the hand, and function is now perfect. Range tested it today and everything was flawless. The revolver is easily up to "Minute of Plate" at 12 yards. Next I'm going to put it on paper and see what sort of groups I can shoot.
 
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