O.K., dumb AR 15 question time...again!

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IWAC

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I have read some about "80%" lower receivers...finish them yourself, etc, etc., and some even come with a "jig".

What do you need to finish one of them? Could I do it with my Harbor Freight, ChiCom drill press, and a non-adjustable drill press vise?. What else would I need, or is it better to buy something already finished, like the Palmetto State Armory "blem" lower? Also...Polymer Lowers? Is that a good idea?

The triggers of "kit" and factory guns are said to be pretty awful. I never thought that about my issue weapon, but it was a .30 Carbine. Heavy, sure, but I could hit what I wanted to.

The PSA "enhanced" trigger...never seen that wording in their information...is said to be better. Their advertised unit, at ~$59, may be the one I have read about. What improvement, if any, does one make?

Is it better to just go with whatever kit barrel they offer, or wait for a "Daily Deal" for one with PSA's "Machine Gun Steel" barrels, given the fact I will never afford to put beaucoup hundreds of rounds downrange? I figure maybe 2-300 to be sure it is working properly, then a box or two monthly to keep magazines rotated, and skills at a reasonable level.

Or, just go with the S&W M&P Sport or a Ruger AR 556?
Thanx.:)
 
I have read some about "80%" lower receivers...finish them yourself, etc, etc., and some even come with a "jig".

You will not save money building an AR-15 with an 80% lower. There are other reasons to embark on this kind of project.

What do you need to finish one of them? Could I do it with my Harbor Freight, ChiCom drill press, and a non-adjustable drill press vise?. What else would I need, or is it better to buy something already finished, like the Palmetto State Armory "blem" lower? Also...Polymer Lowers? Is that a good idea?

Most of the jigs need mill capabilities. There is one that I have seen that supposedly can be machined out with a hand drill and router.

The triggers of "kit" and factory guns are said to be pretty awful. I never thought that about my issue weapon, but it was a .30 Carbine. Heavy, sure, but I could hit what I wanted to.

The PSA "enhanced" trigger...never seen that wording in their information...is said to be better. Their advertised unit, at ~$59, may be the one I have read about. What improvement, if any, does one make?

In my opinion, it depends on what you are planning to do with the rifle. Longer range, precision shooting will require a better trigger. Having fun plinking at 100 or 200 yard steel targets and the such, a mil spec trigger would be fine.

Is it better to just go with whatever kit barrel they offer, or wait for a "Daily Deal" for one with PSA's "Machine Gun Steel" barrels, given the fact I will never afford to put beaucoup hundreds of rounds downrange? I figure maybe 2-300 to be sure it is working properly, then a box or two monthly to keep magazines rotated, and skills at a reasonable level.

I like good barrels and generally want features not offered on "off the shelf" barrels so I guess I'm no help here. In general, I would not buy the cheapest thing around.

Or, just go with the S&W M&P Sport or a Ruger AR 556?
Thanx.:)

This would be the easiest and quickest way to go. Both would be good starter AR-15s.
 
I've done a bunch using a bench top drill press and a hand held router. It takes time, maybe a day, to complete a single lower. But it is fun and I can say it is mine. Though you can get a stripped lower for cheaper these days...
 
80% lowers usually cost more in the long run, but I've built a few to register as sbrs just so my trust info are the only markings on the lower. If you are very steady of hand a drill press and a dremel will do it. I use a mill and even then problems can arise.

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What's your goal for the rifle? If you're looking for something to start out with that is relatively cheap, its hard to beat a rifle that's already built (or buying a separate lower and upper and putting them together).

If you know exactly what parts you want, you can build your rifle from parts, but with AR prices so low you likely won't save too much money. You will however have the exact rifle you want. It's very helpful if you want something other than a normal 16" barreled M4 copy.

Making a rifle from a 80% receiver is more of a hobby type thing than a way to cut costs. I would definitely use a mill if you have one available. Right tool for the job and all... If all you care about is a getting a functioning lower, you'll save money just buying an already made stripped lower.
 
Stripped lowers are dirt cheap right now. Under 75 bucks and ready to assemble.

Having never built an AR, I would say that an 80% lower is asking for aggravation. A stripped Anderson is a much better idea. Most of the low end Polymer lowers have unfavorable reviews, but I have no experience with them

An assembled rifle is not a bad idea either. The trigger on my MP15 is nothing to write home about, but you have a warranty and guaranteed functionality; something you won't get assembling your own.

The inexpensive trigger groups all have favorable reviews. Again, nothing to write home about, but certainly good enough for a plinker.
 
I've built quite a few and they are not difficult to do at all. I went ahead and bought all the tools and fixtures required to assemble a good AR rifle and don't regret it at all. A few weeks ago my son came down to visit us and we built him a very nice M4 on his Anderson stripped lower. Took about 4 hours to build it and take it out back and test fire it. Shoots very well.

To the OP: Unless you're really wanting to stay under the radar, no way I would try to finish an 80% lower unless you have all the machine tools that are really required to do the work right. It CAN be done with a drill press and hand tools, but it's not worth the time and effort IMO.
 
The benefits to the 80% lowers are typically not being registered and having the satisfaction of making a bit of it yourself. On a single lower, it's far more expensive to get the jigs and the 80% lower, plus you will end up with raw aluminum or need to send it off for finishing. Even on a larger scale, 80% lower blanks tend not to be less expensive than the stripped lowers can be found fully finished.

Triggers are all subjective. I don't think their enhanced version will be worlds better than a basic, so I probably wouldn't pay extra. Getting a true aftermarket trigger will let you pick the exact feel you want. Id start with the basic kit and see what you like or dislike about it and then buy from there.

I wouldn't worry too much about barrel material. At that shot count, you're looking at 15-20 years of use before you come close to noticing a difference. It's just not a relevant factor to many users. Plus, if you do get hooked and shoot much more, you'll at that point be better informed on your likes to choose a barrel material/contour/length that is most fitting. I wouldn't turn down a tougher barrel material but I wouldn't go out of my way of a good deal on a standard barrel to wait for something "better". That said, I don't shoot enough to wear a barrel out so that's the view point I look at this from.
 
There is no economical reason to buy an 80% lower. 99% of buyers are more well served by buying a $50-$100 stripped lower.

PSA "EPT" trigger is better than a milspec, though quality control is lacking. I had to send mine back due to chrome flaking off the sear. I suggest the ALG trigger over the PSA anyday.

PSA barrels are ok. I've had to return 2 of their stainless barrels for quality control issues, but their premium barrels are much better. For a good quality, inexpensive barrel, I strongly urge you to check these guys out, their budget barrels are VERY nice: https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/upper-parts/barrels/5-56-mm
 
A buddy of mine just finished up one two weeks ago.

After talking with some guys that have shot thousands of rounds out of their Polymer80 lowers he went with one of those.

Cost was about $85 for the lower kit. He used a decent drill press with a inexpensive Harbor Freight mill vice for it. All the bits, jigs, etc he needed came in the box with the lower.

Regarding the parts kit, CDNN had one he liked. Went with one of the more expensive kits with the Keymod rail. $<500

IIRC this is the kit he bought. https://www.cdnnsports.com/ar15-carbine-rifle-kit-556-cbc-industries-24917.html?___SID=U

Instruction PDF
http://polymer80.com/assets/images/...-G150 Build Instructions-Phoenix Version2.pdf

Their 'How To Video'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MssQSPcPBs


I did not see him finishing the lower, it seemed to go a lot faster than he anticipated and he was done just before I got over there. The rest of the parts went together with boring simplicity. Did not even have an issue with the bolt hold open pin that a lot of people complain about. He put a cheap $100 Sightmark EOTech clone on it.

So basically he has got $700 in it right now. Could have gone a cheaper route and saved $100+ with a cheaper kit and iron sights.

Only shot about 5 magazines through it to break it in, no issues at all. Ran great. Not a single malfunction.

Now as others have pointed out, doing a build from an 80% appeals to people for different reasons than just purchasing an off the shelf model. This is not his first or only AR. It was from the start a fun project. He wanted to see if he could build a totally off the radar rifle. Paid cash for the lower, and the parts kit was combined with a third guys big order from CDNN. No paper trail to his door, entire project is 100% legal in the Great State of Texas.


I will be doing a similar project in a month or so when I get a replacement drill press. Trying to stay ahead of any election price bump/shortage, and of course any future legislation from the crime boss v2.0.




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Today's PSA deals include complete lower ($160), complete PTAC upper ($200), Premium BCG ($100), CH ($20) and MBUS ($38). That's $518 before fees.

I have the same complete lower, and the trigger breaks clean at about 5.
 
The 80% lowers do end up costing more in the long run. You have the required equipment needed to finish up the receiver plus you are removing metal from the receiver. It needs to have a finish put on it. Many 80% lowers do not come finished so you will have to look at anodizing, duracoat, cearakote, etc. All which cost money. If you want to do up an 80% lower for the fun of the project then I say go for it. If you are trying to save money, there are better ways to do it. I get the no papers thing too.

Currently on Brownells they have a complete lower receiver from Anderson Mfg. for $46. In town I can find them for $56. It's hard for me to justify the extra time to finish an 80% lower when the finished ones are so cheap.

Another trigger you might want to take a look at in the budget class is the ALG defense QMS trigger. They run about $50 and are way better than the stock mil-spec triggers.

Concerning barrels, most people won't shoot enough rounds in their lifetime to wear out an AR-15 rifle barrel. If you want a general plinker then any standard barrel will do. If you want to shoot 5/8" at 100 yards then it is going to cost you more.

Should you decide to go with a complete gun, black Friday is around the corner. You will find the best sale prices that weekend. PSA has great deals, as well as many brick and mortar stores.
 
I've got a buddy that has done a couple and said it takes him about two hours on his drill press. Another friend uses his CNC machine and they obviously look much better.

Pretty neat to get into. Freedom on.
 
"There is no economical reason to buy an 80% lower."

It depends. For example, I'm a hobby machinist. I did an AR upper and lower from raw forgings because it was a fun challenge. That's not the quickest and easiest way to get an AR :).

But 80% receivers can be different, depending on the details. To buy a stripped lower I have to spend what - $70??? (it varies a lot with the various panics), plus a transfer fee.

At one of the post-panic fire sales I got some anodized 80% receivers for, IIRC, $29 each. Maybe a little less, I don't remember. I have the equipment and skills to put in 3 pin holes and hog out the pockets in I dunno, maybe an hour. It would take longer to drive across town and fill out 4473's.

I'm not trying to fly under the radar - I've bought enough AR's with 4473's that I'm pretty well on anyone's radar. The first one from the forging was for the fun of the project; the 80% ones are just because, for me, they are cheaper and easier. Someone who works in a gun store and doesn't pay transfer fees and doesn't have a milling machine faces a different set of trade offs, of course.

For the OP - if you think it sounds like a cool project, go for it! You'll either end up with a workable lower, or having learned something, or both. Those are all good outcomes.
 
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