Build your own AR vs. buying a new one out of the box

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stinger 327

stinger 327

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Is it true that if you build your own AR it will cost less than an out of the box brand new fully assembled AR-15 Colt and a better quality accurate rifle?
The problem is I do not know how to put one of these together.
Suggestions?
 
If you buy an assembled upper and an assembled lower, you just push two pins, put a sight on the rails, and bam, you've got a new gun. Other than that, it depends exactly what you're trying to put together.

I'm not fluent in AR, I don't know the exact specs on the Colt or what parts you would need to equal that. But I do know that you can get a darn nice rifle for a lot less than the $900-$1K a Colt would cost you.
 
AR's factory built are at good prices now may not be for long , if
your new to the AR and want to take it out and shoot it and trust it I would buy one factory buit by a good name brand, if its your first build it may be a learning process unless you get a complete upper and lower , you can see on this forum some folks have issues with their build
and need to work out the bug's. Kind of if you want out the box good to go or build the rifle and learn the rifle in more detail,
 
Given what a Colt LE6920, LE6720, or one of the OEM carbines can be had for I'd buy a complete rifle over a pile of parts.

If you want to build an AR you will need some tools. You might already have them, but if you do not factor in the cost of those tools. You'll need a bench with a vice on it, a lower receiver block, and an upper receiver block to work on each assembly. You will need an armorer's wrench, and a torque wrench. A good set of punches will be needed for various roll pins if you are going to be installing your own lower parts kits, gas tubes, and pins for the gas block or front sight post if you want a pinned FSP or block. If you wish to assemble your own bolt carrier group you will need a carrier key staking tool so the gas key bolt will not come loose and make the rifle short stroke.

To all this stuff (if you don't already have it) you will need these parts to equal or exceed the Colt in terms of quality:

1.) Forged upper and lower receivers that are dimensionally correct. The upper should have M4 feed ramps cut prior to Type III hard coat anodizing. Both of these parts will need to be 7075-T6 aluminum alloy.

2.) A mil spec lower receiver extension for the collapsible stock, again made from 7075-T6 for strength, and including the M4 spec dry film lubricant inside the tube.

3.) A good quality lower receiver parts kit.

4.) A mil spec (or better) M4 butt stock.

5.) A mil spec (or better) pistol grip.

6.) A barrel made from Chrome Moly Vanadium 4150 grade steel, per the mil spec rated for full auto firing schedule, chrome lined bore and chamber. Chamber will be true 5.56mm NATO spec, bore will have a 1:7" twist rate. The barrel will be finished in a heavy mil spec phosphate and will be drilled to accept taper pins for the front sight base. Additionally the barrel will be high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected individually. Some reputable manufacturers do multiple angle X-ray testing of their barrels and this is also an excellent method for testing the integrity of the part.

7.) A bolt made from Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened for additional strength, high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected individually. Additionally there should be a tool steel extractor with the current copper colored extractor spring and black polymer spring insert. Phosphate finish on this part as well.

8.) A bolt carrier that is phosphate finished and has a chrome lined interior, additionally the gas key will be chrome lined, and the gas key bolts that attach this part will need to be heavily staked so they do not back out and cause a gas leak. You can purchase this part already properly assembled along with a good bolt. Expect to pay north of $100 for a good complete BCG.

9.) Firing pin, chrome plated.

10.) Front sight post "F" marked to go with your flat top upper, or a low profile gas block. Either way you are looking for an all steel part, that can be securely attached to the barrel. Pinning is by far the most secure method, but there are others. The gov't demands that their carbines have a pinned gas block or front sight post and that is what Colt provides.

11.) Good quality gas tube, this one is not rocket science but you still have to buy it.

12.) Barrel nut, and other barrel hardware if you plan to go with old school hand guards.

13.) Alternative furniture for the fore end of your choice. Most of your rails will come with mounting hardware including the barrel nut.

14.) A rear sight of some description. My Colt M4A1 SOCOM II came with the Matech rear sight, it is OK. I personally prefer the look and low profile of the Magpul MBUS Pro all steel salt bath nitride finished folding BUIS. Either way a quality rear sight of the folding variety is going to cost about $100-$150. Same if you want a good quality folding front.

15.) An A2 bird cage flash hider or a muzzle device of your choice.

I've probably forgotten some parts, but this will give you a good idea. One intangible aspect is service, if you buy a bunch of parts and assemble a rifle and it doesn't work right you are stuck with it and remedying it yourself. If you buy a Colt, or other good carbine from a good manufacturer like Bravo Company Machine, Daniel Defense, SIONICS Weapon Systems, Knights Armament, FN, Lewis Machine and Tool, Heckler and Koch, and others you can just call them up and tell them your gun doesn't work and they will fix it so it does.

However, I will admit that tinkering with the AR is fun when assembling quality parts with decent tools. This is also an intangible that is hard to place a value on.

For a first AR if you can swing it I absolutely recommend buying a Colt, BCM, DD, LMT, FN, or SIONICS as a good value for the money top tier carbine. I happen to have a Colt and a DD, I have a friend who has a BCM and all of them are dead nuts reliable fighting grade carbines. If you look at what a lot of pro instructors are running for their training carbines that see a lot of rounds you'll find plenty of Colt's, BCM's, and DD's. Once you have a good solid factory carbine, I fully endorse building an upper to suit your exact needs once you figure out what you like or don't like about your factory gun.
 
Im a build it yourself guy. Ive done 4 lowers and half dozen or so uppers.
I dont feel you can build a BETTER ar than what colt puts out...or any of the trusted names in the business. What you can do is build exactly what you want, and if so inclined cut costs on components that are more form than function to your particular build.

Case in point i use cheap float rails, I check the barrel nuts carefully before installing but i never mount sights on them, so if they are crooked it dosent mater as long as i cant tell by sight.
Butt stocks also dont mater to me. If carbine it needs to lock properly, and be reasonably comfortable. other than that dont really care for most builds.
Gas tubes and blocks...same boat i check them carefully on install, and regularly after using the upper...i used joebobs for 4 or 5 uppers now i think
Uppers/lowers i buy cheapest decent ones, usually anderson or aero.
lpks i buy whats on sale at brownells (i polish all engagement surfaces, carefully, so as long as the straits are strait im happy). Muzzle device are what evers laying around or what i think looks good.

Grips mater to me, so does bolt quality, barrels i want adequate atleast but i never buy top of the line.

My last build and the one ive kept ran about 500.
Now my uses arnt nearly as strenuous as many other members, ill never fight with my ar, its dosent feed my family, its an expensive toy.
That said ive only had one issue with it, my 6.5 upper dosent like mags soft seated, slam them home and its fine.

Now if i were expecting to use my gun for anything more serious than hunting and plinking on the weekends, you bet my build would be much more expensive, or Id buy a well respected mid/high end factory.
 
You can probably build anew AR of similar Colt quality for a little cheaper than they are selling for.

But what you won't get is professional quality control and quality assurance.

Building an AR is a lot like adding performance parts to yout car. Get the parts and follow the instructions. However when you are done and the thing doesn't work right, do you have the knowledge to know why?
 
Problem:

stinger 327, " I do not know how to put one of these together."

Solution: learn

There are nearly as many online and printed guides to assembling an AR as there are for changing your oil. It's almost as easy, and you don't have to lay on the ground.

There's no reason to pay the ignorance fee for an entry level AR; you get nothing but factory assembly and a Pony engraving. Once you enter the match grade or better strata, it might be worth it.
 
I just put together my very first ar 15, I had zero experience with the platform, but I did read a lot on the subject, watched several videos of the process on youtube, and am generally good with mechanical things. With this level of skill, I was able to locally source a stripped lower receiver, and order a nice build kit from PSA which included a completed upper, so basically I just had to assembly my lower, and attach it to their upper, and add my accessories. The process went fine, and I was left with a perfectly functioning firearm.

If you prepare yourself properly, and buy the correct parts to have your new build be exactly what you want, you can build something equivalent to a name brand gun, for less money, and not have to replace things to suit your needs. If you doubt your mechanical abilities, perhaps a factory made gun is more your style. A lot of this is taking the time to do your research before actually buying anything.
 
First - I'd build it, or have it built.

Second, There's nothing magical about Colts, and nothing magical about mil-spec.

If you want a bargain priced, basic carbine, it's generally cheaper to buy one off of the rack. If you want ANYTHING different beyond that, it's cheaper to build yourself. It WILL take longer to get parts, however.

I started building AR's around 2000 when the 3gun scene started picking up in the Midwest, I've since built over 200 of them from stripped receivers, and serviced/rebuilt over twice as many.

Shoot me a PM if you want a parts purchase list and some building advice.

My secondary route is to buy a semi-custom or custom AR. Mike Milli from Dtech, Ritch Johnson from Ritch's Precision Guns are two places I would buy from these days, but there are a handful of others I might consider. You can be sure either will build you a rifle more accurate than you can shoot, especially Mike.
 
stinger 327 said:
... The problem is I do not know how to put one of these together.
Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Start with a built AR. While you are learning it, research components, vendors, prices, and the assembly process ... and then assemble your 2nd AR from parts. ;)

That is how I did it ~15 years ago. I started by buying a Bushmaster and now have 4 ARs in the gunsafes.

I would have more, but I decided that I am not a fan of direct impingement.
 
A key factor would be, what do you want it for? If you intend to do competition shooting or take high round courses, you'd probably put a high dollar AR to good use. If you just want to have one or for occasional range use, you'll probably be just as well served with an assembled lower priced one.

I see complete assembled Anderson's are now going in the $450 range at Sportsman's Guide and Brownell. Tough to assemble even a budget build for that amount.
 
I built my own, which is also my first AR, and I had never previously even SHOT an AR! I used YouTube, a Colt Canada M4 armorer's manual, and Brownell and Ar15.com assembly guides. I built the entire lower and upper. I had to invest in some tools, assembly grease etc.

I didn't do it to save money. I did it because I wanted to learn, feel more involved in the process, and end up with a high quality rifle.

I have a Magpul CTR stock, Aero Precision upper and lower stripped receivers, ARPerformance barrel (223 Wylde chamber, 18" SPR barrel) and bolt, Gunfighter charging handle, a high quality free float handguard (totally unable to recall the make at this moment), JP Enterprise adjustable gas system A2 front sight with a flip up rear sight. I couldn't be happier with the look and quality of the rifle, I loved tuning in the gas system and can't wait to really try to test the accuracy which I haven't done yet.

Photo next to a 18" Mossberg bantam 20 ga.

Total cost is between 15-1700, with the sling and all and tooling I bought included as well.
 

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Forgot to mention a significant outlay was the Geissele SSA-E trigger as well.

I don't think I could have bought a factory rifle like this!
 
Resale is an issue for me. I would have no problem buying a used Colt, but don't really want Bubba's garage built AR.
 
".... build your own AR...."
"...out of the box brand new..."

Third option is to look around for a used one in reasonable shape. Might take some looking, right now.

Tinpig
 
Coal Dragger said:
Given what a Colt LE6920, LE6720, or one of the OEM carbines can be had for I'd buy a complete rifle over a pile of parts.

If you want to build an AR you will need some tools. You might already have them, but if you do not factor in the cost of those tools. You'll need a bench with a vice on it, a lower receiver block, and an upper receiver block to work on each assembly. You will need an armorer's wrench, and a torque wrench. A good set of punches will be needed for various roll pins if you are going to be installing your own lower parts kits, gas tubes, and pins for the gas block or front sight post if you want a pinned FSP or block. If you wish to assemble your own bolt carrier group you will need a carrier key staking tool so the gas key bolt will not come loose and make the rifle short stroke.

To all this stuff (if you don't already have it) you will need these parts to equal or exceed the Colt in terms of quality:

1.) Forged upper and lower receivers that are dimensionally correct. The upper should have M4 feed ramps cut prior to Type III hard coat anodizing. Both of these parts will need to be 7075-T6 aluminum alloy.

2.) A mil spec lower receiver extension for the collapsible stock, again made from 7075-T6 for strength, and including the M4 spec dry film lubricant inside the tube.

3.) A good quality lower receiver parts kit.

4.) A mil spec (or better) M4 butt stock.

5.) A mil spec (or better) pistol grip.

6.) A barrel made from Chrome Moly Vanadium 4150 grade steel, per the mil spec rated for full auto firing schedule, chrome lined bore and chamber. Chamber will be true 5.56mm NATO spec, bore will have a 1:7" twist rate. The barrel will be finished in a heavy mil spec phosphate and will be drilled to accept taper pins for the front sight base. Additionally the barrel will be high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected individually. Some reputable manufacturers do multiple angle X-ray testing of their barrels and this is also an excellent method for testing the integrity of the part.

7.) A bolt made from Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened for additional strength, high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected individually. Additionally there should be a tool steel extractor with the current copper colored extractor spring and black polymer spring insert. Phosphate finish on this part as well.

8.) A bolt carrier that is phosphate finished and has a chrome lined interior, additionally the gas key will be chrome lined, and the gas key bolts that attach this part will need to be heavily staked so they do not back out and cause a gas leak. You can purchase this part already properly assembled along with a good bolt. Expect to pay north of $100 for a good complete BCG.

9.) Firing pin, chrome plated.

10.) Front sight post "F" marked to go with your flat top upper, or a low profile gas block. Either way you are looking for an all steel part, that can be securely attached to the barrel. Pinning is by far the most secure method, but there are others. The gov't demands that their carbines have a pinned gas block or front sight post and that is what Colt provides.

11.) Good quality gas tube, this one is not rocket science but you still have to buy it.

12.) Barrel nut, and other barrel hardware if you plan to go with old school hand guards.

13.) Alternative furniture for the fore end of your choice. Most of your rails will come with mounting hardware including the barrel nut.

14.) A rear sight of some description. My Colt M4A1 SOCOM II came with the Matech rear sight, it is OK. I personally prefer the look and low profile of the Magpul MBUS Pro all steel salt bath nitride finished folding BUIS. Either way a quality rear sight of the folding variety is going to cost about $100-$150. Same if you want a good quality folding front.

15.) An A2 bird cage flash hider or a muzzle device of your choice.

I've probably forgotten some parts, but this will give you a good idea. One intangible aspect is service, if you buy a bunch of parts and assemble a rifle and it doesn't work right you are stuck with it and remedying it yourself. If you buy a Colt, or other good carbine from a good manufacturer like Bravo Company Machine, Daniel Defense, SIONICS Weapon Systems, Knights Armament, FN, Lewis Machine and Tool, Heckler and Koch, and others you can just call them up and tell them your gun doesn't work and they will fix it so it does.

However, I will admit that tinkering with the AR is fun when assembling quality parts with decent tools. This is also an intangible that is hard to place a value on.

For a first AR if you can swing it I absolutely recommend buying a Colt, BCM, DD, LMT, FN, or SIONICS as a good value for the money top tier carbine. I happen to have a Colt and a DD, I have a friend who has a BCM and all of them are dead nuts reliable fighting grade carbines. If you look at what a lot of pro instructors are running for their training carbines that see a lot of rounds you'll find plenty of Colt's, BCM's, and DD's. Once you have a good solid factory carbine, I fully endorse building an upper to suit your exact needs once you figure out what you like or don't like about your factory gun.
Click to expand...

Yes this sounds reasonable and makes sense. I would end up spending more time on this which isn't bad but I don't have the tools or time to put it together. In fact that is the AR rifle I was thinking about getting the Colt LE6920, LE6720. If I went for lower cost it would be the Smith & Wesson AR MP sporter.
 
Last edited:
JO JO said:
AR's factory built are at good prices now may not be for long , if
your new to the AR and want to take it out and shoot it and trust it I would buy one factory buit by a good name brand, if its your first build it may be a learning process unless you get a complete upper and lower , you can see on this forum some folks have issues with their build
and need to work out the bug's. Kind of if you want out the box good to go or build the rifle and learn the rifle in more detail,
Click to expand...
I th ink I would prefer one out of the box like a Colt.
 
LoonWulf said:
Im a build it yourself guy. Ive done 4 lowers and half dozen or so uppers.
I dont feel you can build a BETTER ar than what colt puts out...or any of the trusted names in the business. What you can do is build exactly what you want, and if so inclined cut costs on components that are more form than function to your particular build.

Case in point i use cheap float rails, I check the barrel nuts carefully before installing but i never mount sights on them, so if they are crooked it dosent mater as long as i cant tell by sight.
Butt stocks also dont mater to me. If carbine it needs to lock properly, and be reasonably comfortable. other than that dont really care for most builds.
Gas tubes and blocks...same boat i check them carefully on install, and regularly after using the upper...i used joebobs for 4 or 5 uppers now i think
Uppers/lowers i buy cheapest decent ones, usually anderson or aero.
lpks i buy whats on sale at brownells (i polish all engagement surfaces, carefully, so as long as the straits are strait im happy). Muzzle device are what evers laying around or what i think looks good.

Grips mater to me, so does bolt quality, barrels i want adequate atleast but i never buy top of the line.

My last build and the one ive kept ran about 500.
Now my uses arnt nearly as strenuous as many other members, ill never fight with my ar, its dosent feed my family, its an expensive toy.
That said ive only had one issue with it, my 6.5 upper dosent like mags soft seated, slam them home and its fine.

Now if i were expecting to use my gun for anything more serious than hunting and plinking on the weekends, you bet my build would be much more expensive, or Id buy a well respected mid/high end factory.
Click to expand...
The purpose would be for personal protection, ranch gun, eliminate varmints and predators, target shooting at range. An all around kind of purpose rifle. I do like the idea of having two kinds of optics on it like a scope for longer range shooting and an aim point laser type for quick target acquisition.
 
C-grunt said:
You can probably build anew AR of similar Colt quality for a little cheaper than they are selling for.

But what you won't get is professional quality control and quality assurance.

Building an AR is a lot like adding performance parts to yout car. Get the parts and follow the instructions. However when you are done and the thing doesn't work right, do you have the knowledge to know why?
Click to expand...

Very well put. In that perspective I prefer my performance cars factory stock. I want factory stock/reliable out of the box. I don't want to tinker toy with it or create more problems for myself. Like "If it ain't broke don't fix it". I learned that lesson many times over. I need reliability.
 
JO JO said:
AR's factory built are at good prices now may not be for long , if
your new to the AR and want to take it out and shoot it and trust it I would buy one factory buit by a good name brand, if its your first build it may be a learning process unless you get a complete upper and lower , you can see on this forum some folks have issues with their build
and need to work out the bug's. Kind of if you want out the box good to go or build the rifle and learn the rifle in more detail,
Click to expand...

I don't want those kinds of issues. I just want to enjoy shooting it. It doesn't have to be a match rifle as long as it is good enough for combat/protection and range shooting.
 
Other good points brought up in this post to consider is if you want a warranty or not and resale value you don't get them with a garage build
 
JO JO said:
Other good points brought up in this post to consider is if you want a warranty or not and resale value you don't get them with a garage build
Click to expand...
Yes a warranty would be nice but even better a lifetime warranty. I would want that option of resale value.
 
The thing is, whichever way you go, as you learn more about the platform and get more familiar with it, you'll see ads and read reviews here on THR for parts you'll want to upgrade to. After you do a couple upgrades, you'll have a spare parts bin. Then you get to thinking about how you only need a few more parts to assemble another gun. Then you get a stripped lower. Then the cycle goes on to repeat itself....
 
desidog said:
The thing is, whichever way you go, as you learn more about the platform and get more familiar with it, you'll see ads and read reviews here on THR for parts you'll want to upgrade to. After you do a couple upgrades, you'll have a spare parts bin. Then you get to thinking about how you only need a few more parts to assemble another gun. Then you get a stripped lower. Then the cycle goes on to repeat itself....
Click to expand...

A never ending hobby?
 
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