300blk accuracy issues?

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ny32182

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I have a 300blk rifle (just one, so unfortunately can't compare to a different gun). The BEST groups I can get it to shoot right now is about 4 MOA at 100yards. More vertical stringing than horizontal, normally.

Rifle specs:
Factory AAC 12.5" barrel/extension, gas block, and BCG
Upper assembled by a professional gunsmith.

Ammo (I HOPE the issue is here, but certainly not sure):
-Hornady 150 FMJ
-SMK 125gr
-Barnes 120gr TAC-TX
-Barnes 110gr TAC-TX

All loads so far have been done with various charges of H110, and factory new, primed Remington brass. Since it was already primed, I just took it out of the box, loaded, and shot it. I bought 500 pieces of this brass and am not quite through them yet.

Scope on the rifle is a Nikon P300blk in a Larue LT140.
I think I can feel a very..... very..... VERY minor bit of wiggle between the scope and the front "ring" on the mount. Just throwing that out there as well, though even if present, I doubt it would lead to groups this big.

I'm sure my hold isn't perfect, so chalk up about an inch to that if you want.

Like I said, the BEST groups I can get with the Barnes are about 4". The other bullets are bigger.

What should I be checking? I have some new Hornady brass as well, but haven't tried it yet. I don't know anything about the primers that are in the rounds I'm using so far (other than that they have all gone bang).

It just seems like I should be getting better accuracy off a bench, with a scope, and with good bullets... what do you think?
 
VERY minor bit of wiggle between the scope and the front "ring" on the mount.
Fix this first. New rings, new scope, both, whatever it takes. The bullets mine hated the worst shot better than that. (18" LW Stoner barrel from Midway) The ones it likes will do under an inch and shoot some real small groups here and there.
 
So no one thinks the cases not being sized could be an issue?

I'll have to figure out some kind of shim for the front ring in order to get it super tight I guess.
 
I've run them up to the velocity specs stated in the factory loads; no apparent changes in accuracy across the velocity range that I could see.
 
Fix the scope mount. One inch at 100yards is .00027" at the scope. It you can feel it move, it is probably moving .001" or close to 4" at 100 yds.
 
Add another vote for fixing the scope. After that, sizing the brass to make sure it's all consistent would be my next concern.

Changing one thing at a time is the scientific way to figure it out. But if you're like me you don't get to the range as often as you'd like and fixing an issue like that eats up some "fun time." So personally I'd do both of those things before heading to the range. If YOU do get to the range often, do it scientifically.

If neither of those work I'd considering changing the powder and/or primers out.
 
P1011738.jpg looks like the scope tube diameter may keep the ring from fully tighting on the base. What if you tighten the bottom first, then the top? Larue LT 104 ?
 
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The locking LaRue Speed Levers provide outstanding return to zero; the optic can be removed, and replaced, without loss of zero. Guaranteed.

This has been tried over many years. Quick detachable mounts. Its never worked in my experience .

But its a new age, maybe they have been perfected now.
 
Yes that is the style of mount I have. I just basically took a bigger wrench and torque the crap out of the bolts on the Rings more than I could before. I don't think I can feel any movement now. I'm about to head off to the range and try again.
 
So no one thinks the cases not being sized could be an issue?
This thread is like someone complaining of leg pain and asking if it could be caused by a family history of arthritis, while ignoring the 110 pound Rottweiler chewing on their knee.

A loose scope is never going to allow you to get the accuracy your rifle is capable of delivering.

Fix the known issue, then worry about minutiae.
 
As others have said, fix the obvious problems first. My experience with 300 BLK has been one of love and hate. First, I dumped H110/296 and went to 4227. Second I went after bullet runout. It's extremely easy to seat bullets in that case that aren't on axis. Runout wouldn't give you consistent vertical stringing, but it may be complicating things.
 
Ok, as far as I can tell the scope is now completely locked down. I think before, like someone said, it might have been moving 1/1000th or something.

Unfortunately I can't say I see a difference on paper so far. All the shooting here was done with the 110gr TAC-TX and 19.06gr H110. Typical 100 yard groups:

The one on the left is a 5 round group with one somewhere off the paper. Changed he POA a little lower for the one on the right.
100yd_1.jpg

Unlike before I did some 200 yard shooting this time, which actually resulted in something I wasn't expecting; if anything I think all of this 200 yard performance looks slightly better than it does at 100:

200yd Group 1:

200yd_1.jpg

200yd Group 2... uh... I'll chalk this up as some anomaly:

200yd_2.jpg

200yd Group 3:

200yd_3.jpg

I guess I'll try some SMKs with the scope tighter but I don't have any reason to expect success right now.
 
This thread is like someone complaining of leg pain and asking if it could be caused by a family history of arthritis, while ignoring the 110 pound Rottweiler chewing on their knee.
It's also like threading a sewing needle with a rope. Why have a 12.5" barreled gun (is his a pistol, or SBR?) with a scope on it? That's a gun for tactical, fast-pointing application, needs a red-dot or some sort of wide aperture, quick targeting sighting device. I'd be very happy hitting body-mass size targets at 100 yards with that rifle, rather than attempting to cut 50-cent piece size groups.

That said, the scope should have NO play, otherwise your sight picture will differ from both your POA and POI from shot to shot. Precision impacts would also help from precision loads. My BLK ammo is all once-fired LC brass, I buy it deprimed and sized, and for regular plinking I just load it and go, and generally can put rounds in the torso at 200 yards, center of chest at 100 with a red dot. For more precision, I will size my "already sized" brass before priming/loading, and measure my powder loads to the 1/10th grain (my scale is capable of 0.02 grain). Below is a 30-round mag, rapid-fire (about one round/2 seconds) at 100 yards, red dot no magnification sitting, hand supported with my 16" M4 BLK. Ammo is LC once-fired, 19 grains Lil' Gun with 125 Nosler. Your accuracy is not too far from this, your shorter barrel and loose scope detract from your accuracy. 300BLK 100 yd 1x sight rapid fire 2 min 8-16-14.JPG
 
If you have other scopes and mounts, swap the whole rig and try again, you shouldnt have to crank on a mount to get it tight on a scope dont discard scope/mount as an issue yet. Also even if you had a good smith assemble the parts, there maybe a fitment issue that he didnt notice, or was beyond the scope of a simple upper assembly. Check thru it again just to be sure.

Ive had issues with accuracy in my blackouts related to ammo also. I run h110 as well, and it needs to be right at max for me to get decent groups.
The second thing ive found is that blackouts are usually throated for LONG bullets, even 150 pointed are usually a way off the lands. Its my personal opinion that this means that cases and bullets MUST be square. Id honestly talk to Bart about case prep for concentricity. ive followed some of his replys in threads and used some of the advice to good results in my blackout. Lastly if nothing seems to work try the heavier bullet weights, ive got some 208s 220s and 245s i could share some of if youd like.
 
I would agree with most of the above that its your sighting system (rings, mount, scope). But we could all be wrong. Don't have an AR, but I do load for the black out for a Model 7 Remington. It prefers the loads a little on the hotter side. I have an advantage in that I can load a little longer. H110 is the powder of choice. I use 150's since I have kazillion of them for my other 308 caliber rifles (Bought a case of 5000).
 
"Wiggle" was not the right word. It had barely detectable movement if I pressed it side to side against the front of the objective bell. Now it doesn't.

I will move the scope and mount combination to a rifle I know shoots better and see if I can isolate it as a cause or not.

Why have a 12.5" barreled gun (is his a pistol, or SBR?) with a scope on it? That's a gun for tactical, fast-pointing application, needs a red-dot or some sort of wide aperture, quick targeting sighting device. I'd be very happy hitting body-mass size targets at 100 yards with that rifle, rather than attempting to cut 50-cent piece size groups.

I'm no rifle shooting expert, but always heard that if anything, short barrels are more accurate due to less flexibility... is that no longer a thing?

My 5.56 SBRs don't seem to have a problem demolishing the level of accuracy displayed above. Yes, they are short range guns, but I still like to see what I can actually make them do in terms of accuracy before putting a reflex type sight on them.
 
If you have other scopes and mounts, swap the whole rig and try again, you shouldnt have to crank on a mount to get it tight on a scope dont discard scope/mount as an issue yet. Also even if you had a good smith assemble the parts, there maybe a fitment issue that he didnt notice, or was beyond the scope of a simple upper assembly. Check thru it again just to be sure.

Ive had issues with accuracy in my blackouts related to ammo also. I run h110 as well, and it needs to be right at max for me to get decent groups.
The second thing ive found is that blackouts are usually throated for LONG bullets, even 150 pointed are usually a way off the lands. Its my personal opinion that this means that cases and bullets MUST be square. Id honestly talk to Bart about case prep for concentricity. ive followed some of his replys in threads and used some of the advice to good results in my blackout. Lastly if nothing seems to work try the heavier bullet weights, ive got some 208s 220s and 245s i could share some of if youd like.

Thanks... I've been loading for max length of about 2.25 so they will fit in any magazine, but could potentially go a little longer for Pmags only. The "long jump if you are loading for AR15" seems to be a recurring theme, but probably not much you can do about that if your mag length and barrel throat are what they are? I have no experience with trying to adjust runout, etc. But sounds like it could potentially help.
 
One thing that has not been mentioned yet is stock being used. If you have an adjustable (collapsible) stock, these can cause accuracy issues. What happens is the movement is not the same every shot. It's very hard to get the same placement when you have things that can move. I had the same issues till I went to fixed stock. My groups went down to 1/2 what they were.

As for movement of the scope mount, could it have been between the upper and lower? Also are you having a parallax problem with the scope? The way to check this is move you head up/down/sideways without moving the gun and see if your POA changes. The scope your using is not a BE grade scope so expect some parallax.
 
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