Ar 15 painting

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

I built my first AR 15 and it works great! I didn't like its color scheme so I painted it flat black with Rustoleum heat resistant paint. Baked it in my oven for 3 hours at 350 degrees. I did sand it, cleaned it and primed it before painting. Now the paint isn't flaking off except when ever i handle it I get a black powdery residue all over my hands from it. Did I do something wrong or is this just how that paint is after its done curing?

PegLegPeat · Jul 23, 2017

My only experience painting guns has been Krylon camo jobs, and I don't really mind if it wears off the corners and starts looking "battle worn". I would be perfectly happy for everyone to look at them and think POS. I did however paint a meat smoker with the hight temp black paint a few years ago. I do not remember the brand, but I had the same experience witht the powdery stuff coming off. Paint job looks horrible, but it kept it from rusting and the brisket comes out just fine.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

Right and I didn't use the Krylon because everyone tells me it chips and flakes off. A few people have told me that about their BBQ's doing that same thing but with no solution for this

entropy · Jul 23, 2017

DuraCoat is designed for firearms; I haven't used it yet, but I have seen Steve's demo guns at the shows, and was very impressed. Plus it comes in many, many colors.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

ok, but that doesn't really help with my issue at the moment.

entropy · Jul 23, 2017

The only things I've painted with Rustoleum heat resistant paint are engine parts and a Cold Steel Viking Axe; they used to sell them with the head blackened, but not anymore. So I painted mine with Rustoleum HI-temp paint, (had it leftover from a car project) and coated the axe head well with oil, no residue. HTH.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

so after it was painted you rubbed it down with oil and didnt have any powdery residue coming off it onto your hands or anything?

entropy · Jul 23, 2017

No. I used automotive-grade paint though, from Auto-Zone, or one of those. Pretty sure it was Rustoleum brand.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

did you wipe it down with like wd40 or something?

entropy · Jul 23, 2017

3 in 1 oil.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

Did you use rustoleum engine enamel?

entropy · Jul 23, 2017

Not sure if it was labeled as such; usually engine paint is red or blue. It was more like header paint. Here's a pic of the axe:

Needsbeermoney · Jul 23, 2017

Hmmm. Ok maybe I will try wiping it down with some oil and see how that works out

Mn Fats · Jul 24, 2017

I've used plain jane rustoleum camo line paint with great success. I've posted the pic on another thread a few months back and its still held up well with no chips. I've had the barrel real hot to the touch many times with no issue. When a chip or scratch occurs in the future (it will) I'll simply give it a quick spray over that spot. I only suggest this If your current job can't be resolved by the above posters solution.

Dentite · Jul 24, 2017

If you don't mind paint coming off over time, rattle can is fine.

If you want it to last, find someone experienced in cerakote and have that done. I have rifles that are 3 years old and look good still and get used a lot. Obviously more cost, but it'll hold up better.

RPRNY · Jul 24, 2017

You may also want to consider Hydrographics. I had a PTR-91 GIR done in KUIU Verde and thought it came out well. The finish seems very durable.

Needsbeermoney · Jul 24, 2017

yeah i was just looking for answers to my current problem. I have other stuff i hydrodipped already

RPRNY · Jul 24, 2017

Did you clear coat it after finishing ? A matt clear coat finish should stop any flaking etc. and be basically invisible.

GunnyUSMC · Aug 1, 2017

My God man. Were you cooking a roast?

Three hours at 350, why? All you needed to do was dry the paint.
What you did was burn the surface of the paint. Clean it good and then spray it with a coat of Matt clear coat.
Remember, all paint will chip and scratch, even DuraCoat and Cerakote.

Don't worry. We all live and learn.

DuraCoat and Cerakote are great finishes, last longer, but cost more.
For a do it yourself paint job that will last, but not cost that much, try Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...osol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx?dym=y
I like to use the flat black. If you get some be sure to buy extra spray tips.
No when it comes to off the shelf raddle can. The good thing is that it's cheap and can be removed easily.

ZGunner · Aug 9, 2017

I've used the Restoleum Grill Paint to finish a Mosin Nagant but I didn't bake it afterward. I just degreased well and sprayed as evenly as i could manage. It turned out well, and with minimal use has stood up to getting thrown around the back seat and in and out of the safe. I really just did it as something temporary as someday it will be my guinea pig for a more durable finish. Possibly DuraBlue?
But I never experienced the flakiness you describe. I didn't oil it perse, but it has absorbed some oil with use and cleaning.

grampajack · Aug 9, 2017

That powdery part sounds annoying. If it doesn't stop doing that, I would just remove it and start over with Aervoe spray paint. It's plenty high temp, and to my knowledge is what's used most of the time by the military to camo their stuff, including weapons. A clear coat would help stop it from flaking, but that's just a fact of life with spray paint. It's going to wear off, and it's not anywhere close to being solvent and oil resistant. I only use spray paint on my POS guns that I just don't care about. For 15 bucks though you could get a can of alumahide from Brownells and that would be more or less a lifetime solution.

Riomouse911 · Aug 11, 2017

Try this link on painting an AR, it was written by Pat Rogers. Rogers passed away a little while back, and he was (is!) a world of info on AR-15 stuff.

http://lightfighter.net/eve/forums/...7?f=9046084761&a=tpc&m=143106357&s=7336015661

RPZ · Aug 11, 2017

I would stay away from auto paint. It'll run/wash out with any aggressive spray solvents etc. I would search online for a true two part epoxy paint.

grampajack · Aug 11, 2017

RPZ said:
I would stay away from auto paint. It'll run/wash out with any aggressive spray solvents etc. I would search online for a true two part epoxy paint.

Same thing with spray paint. It will even dissolve in oil, then you get this nasty paint laden oily mess rubbing off on everything. That's why I will never use spray paint again in the future. Even for guns I don't care about I will spring for the 15 dollar can of alumahide next time.

Needsbeermoney · Aug 18, 2017

GunnyUSMC said:
My God man. Were you cooking a roast? Three hours at 350, why? All you needed to do was dry the paint.
What you did was burn the surface of the paint. Clean it good and then spray it with a coat of Matt clear coat.
Remember, all paint will chip and scratch, even DuraCoat and Cerakote.

Don't worry. We all live and learn.
DuraCoat and Cerakote are great finishes, last longer, but cost more.
For a do it yourself paint job that will last, but not cost that much, try Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...osol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx?dym=y
I like to use the flat black. If you get some be sure to buy extra spray tips.
No when it comes to off the shelf raddle can. The good thing is that it's cheap and can be removed easily.

Its funny you should say that about the baking because I thought the same thing. I called rus toleum and asked them if I was reading the instructions correctly and they said yes that the temp and time.

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