Painting/refinishing firearms

[diablo2184]

I have read through many threads and articles about which route to go when refinishing firearms. At the moment, I am undecided between Aluma-Hyde and Rustoleum/Duplicolor.

Rust/Dupli are much cheaper. Under $8 per can while Aluma Hyde is $20+, including shipping. So while browsing through colors, I cannot find one that's close to parkerization. Only colors I can find are flat black, no flat grays.

Has anyone used Trim and Bumper paint? I know it's not high heat but I can't find a high heat flat dark gray (close to color of parkerization).

 

[cc-hangfire]

There'll likely be a great outcry against painting guns! But there are some firearms that are more tools than examples of fine craftsmanship where paint works fine. I've used Alumahyde II in Ruger Grey to paint the beat up aluminum receiver on a Marlin 60 - it's a medium grey color and came out as a non-glossy, slightly textured finish, not exactly parkerized but close.

I've also used engine paint (high temp, & oven cured at about 150-200 degrees) on old store brand shotguns after getting the rust off. But you're right, I haven't seen dark flat grey colors.

 

[diablo2184]

Aluma-Hyde has a dark gray park color. But for the price of AH I can buy 4 cans of high heat paint. Many people have success with enamel paint but I'm not sure if the price for AH is justifiable.

There will always be those types of people against it but I can't afford to send it somewhere to get parkerized or cerakoted. Can't spend the money on that when you can but a can and do it yourself.

 

[stoky]

I've had very good luck with Duracoat. They also make Ceracoat for high heat, but it's not really necessary.
A less expensive alternative is header paint from an auto parts store.

 

[cc-hangfire]

The high heat paints, particularly engine & auto chassis paints, will hold up about as well as Duracote or Alumahyde (maybe just as well or better). Especially if you use heat curing and then let it cure the recommended period before use.

I've had no issues with wear for range use, although I haven't put one in the floorboard if my truck to bang around as a test. And if it gets nicked up you can always touch up or repaint without much cost. Go for it! Be sure you degrease thoroughly and do whatever other surface prep is needed.

 

[diablo2184]

yeah i may bite the bullet and do it. the only reason I'm debating to go with Aluma hyde is the fact that i can get it in the flat gray color. the engine and exhaust paints only have flat black.

 

[Sunray]

Parkerising is only grey is the chemicals are zinc based. Grey Parkerizing came out in different shades of grey according to the metal it went on. M1 Rifles were black Parkerized, not grey. Manganese based.
Anyway, Tremclad Rust Paint comes in flat grey. Rust-Oleum Automotive primer comes in a flat dark grey. Both available in Home Depot. Look for 'matte' vs 'flat'.

 

[diablo2184]

You are correct. And the reason I want the flat gray is cuz the factory color is parkerized. So I want it as close to that as possible.

I know that they have gray primers but not sure how that would last as just being a primer. (I don't want to use a flat clear or any other top coat cuz of the possibility of gloss or shine.)
I will check in the stores again, but I only saw light gray primers.

 

[Clark]

I had bad peeling with Rustoleum on a VZ24 -Lothar Walther - High Tech Specialties project.

The next year, I did Aluma-hyde II and it has been great.

Top rifle is Boyd's laminated.
Bottom 3 are High Tech Specialites
All painted with Aluma hyde II