When is barrel to hot?

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Out shooting my Ruger Vaquero 44 mag today.....got to thinking about the barrel getting hot, can shooting a number of times in a row, say 24 aimed shots be to much without cooling time. I fired a 100 rounds with some breaks.....barrel was very warm to touch but not burning hot. Anyway, just wondering what you guys have to say, so lets hear your thoughts. ( Gun is stainless steel by the way.)
 
Personal opinion, if you can hold your revolver when it has heated from shooting (especially on a hot day), you are fine. In my mind, there is warm, very warm and then hot; warm is fine, very warm will tell you to let it cool and hot is that maybe I shot the gun a little too fast. I think that your instincts will tell you the difference. If you cannot hold and load the thing without great discomfort, it is cooling time.
 
I remember a durability test I read about when the Ruger SP101 first came out in. 357....if my memory serves me correctly, it went something like this: A group of gun writers took a SP and fired 5k .357 round thru a SP101 basically non-stop. When the gun got too got to hold, they dunked it in a bucket of water and then continued shooting. After 5k, the gun was checked out and everything was still in spec. That story lead me to buy my SP101 twenty-some years ago.
 
There is a big difference between "to hot to hold by the barrel" and "so hot the metal begins to fail". I've had barrels so hot you could spit on them and it was like pouring water on an elephant ear (plant). It would take your skin off if you touched it. But the gun still shot good groups. But it's your gun. If you think it needs to cool down, then let it cool. You lose nothing by being cautious.
 
One of my brothers is retired military, was in one of the units that don't exist.
He told me of firing light automatic weapons to the point that the barrel was glowing. He said the bullet could be seen traveling down the barrel, because the bullet was cooler than the barrel and showed as a dark spot flying down a glowing tube. In the daytime.

Of course, they weren't very concerned with weapon longevity - just getting out of the situation in which they found themselves.
 
I don't think it is possible to get the barrel of a Ruger Vaquero to hot to damage it simply by shooting because you have to stop shooting every 6 rounds, eject the empties one at a time and then load it one cartridge at a time. Maybe a well practiced speed shooter can reload a single-action revolver in a minute but for most of us a couple of minutes is more likely.

Rugers are waaaay overbuilt with hard steel.
 
I wonder about this since I've seen the barrel heat up on a M60 to the point where it glows red hot and the Army issues oven mitts to change out the barrel.

I've always just thought a steel barrel could heat up and cool down and it wouldn't hurt anything...
 
My GP100 barrel is really hot after about 5 cylinders. I typically keep shooting it. I haven't noticed any accuracy issues, though I may not be a good enough shot to notice either way. The cylinder on my 327 LCR gets pretty hot after just six rounds.
 
"I've always just thought a steel barrel could heat up and cool down and it wouldn't hurt anything..."

It depends on the temperatures involved.

Heat treating 101 (for steel): you heat it up really hot, like 1500 degF - that's glowing red, then quench it. Then you temper by reheating to some lower temp. That lower temp varies by alloy and desired hardness. Plain carbon steel that you want to be really hard (a knife blade, for example) might get tempered at 350 degF. Heating and cooling it to any temp below that won't affect it, while heating it above that temp will soften it permanently. If you've ever sharpened a knife on a bench grinder an turned it blue, that blue oxide forms at 700ish degrees; the knife won't hold an edge after that.

You'd have to test them to be sure, but I'd wager most gun barrels are tempered to more than 500 degrees (because they'd be too hard to rifle if tempered to lower temps). It could be much higher than that for some stainless steels. Chrome moly like 4140 is probably tempered to 800 or above (those alloys are brittle if tempered in the 300 to 700 range).

In any event, temps lower than 350 degF aren't going to permanently soften the steel. That's past 'too hot to hold comfortably' and into 'you just got burned' - think taking something out of the oven w/o an oven mitt.

Having said that, will a rifle barrel's throat erode faster if it's run at 300 degrees than at 100? I dunno. IIUC, the exact mechanism of throat erosion isn't know - maybe mechanical wear, maybe some chemical wear, etc. The chemical reaction angle might matter; reactions can go a lot faster at higher temps.

But as far as the bulk hardness of steel, under 350 won't affect it. If you have a full auto that's glowing red, yes, that barrel should be discarded. Merely 'uncomfortable to touch, like a fender in the sun, shouldn't affect anything.
 
Further comment: High barrel heat is definitely a factor in barrel life for rifles, particularly for the "overbore" ones that have limited barrel life based on throat erosion. If you are shooting benchrest or F-class or some other high-precision discipline, it pays to pay a lot of attention to barrel heat if you're trying to get the most life out of your barrel.

Within reason, this has no applicability to most pistols.
 
I don't buy the if you can't touch it, then its too hot. I could see in the middle of a gun fight ..... TIME ...... my barrel is too hot. Ok my barrel is cool, fight on, time in. Not talking cook off hot. Cause then its really too hot.

I am not saying that if your barrrel is hot to touch and you want to cool it off because you like it that way. Go ahead. I won't think bad of that in the least.
 
You're not going to hurt your barrel any by continuing to shoot it during range sessions.
I shoot for a living, I almost always get barrels too hot to touch, and I just don't touch 'em when I do.

Last fall I did a torture test on a Ruger 9mm pistol.
Load, fire, load, fire, as fast as I could for several hundred rounds per session.
At the end of over 5000 rounds shooting it that way, the pistol shot better than it did at the beginning.

A while back, I did the same thing with a Ruger LCR in .38 Special.
Exactly the same results- shot tighter at the end.

You will not damage your gun by shooting 24, or a hundred, rounds through it in a hurry.
Denis
 
I helped conduct some testing on the Speed/Service 6 about 35 years ago. We shot strings of 500 rds of factory 357 as fast as we could then they would be cleaned. The solvent would sizzle off the barrel and cylinder. We had to wear gloves when handling. All of this abuse resulted in no negative effects.
 
TOO hot for what?
24 shots with little cooling time will give you a barrel that's too hot to touch. So will 100. Neither will be so hot as to cause any damage though.
"...when the grips either melt or burst into flames..." That'd be never. Grips are too far from any heat source. 20 rounds rapid was enough to start the wooden forestock of a C1A1(Cdn. FAL.) smouldering. Pretty exciting for an FNG. No big deal for the rest of us.
 
If you can't firmly grip the barrel w/o discomfort -- be it pistol or rifle -- it's too hot.
This is simply absurd. Many shooting sports would not be shootable with this rule.
Gee, Xin Loi....

That's the rule if you're (a) going to preserve barrel/throat life; and (b) minimize POI drift/warp effect.
and if it's your weapon, save your pennies for early change-out.

Anyone here otherwise wants to torture test their AK, AR, and or 9mm's in a shoot`em up drill, go for it.
Been there, done that, cooked K-Rat creamed corn on my M60 barrel.
It's fun to watch from the RO's chair -- along w/ quiet commentary.

Just don't let your armorer see it.
 
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