Supressed Remington 770 .308

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MachIVshooter

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Something you're not likely to see very often, as the cost of threading the barrel alone is a good chunk of the rifle's value, and people buying these economy boomsticks usually aren't playing the NFA game. But every once in awhile......

I had stopped at the gun counter at wally world to do my usual weekly brick or two of .22 LR and whatever else I feel like snagging, and noticed that they had the 770 rifle & scope combos marked down to $254. I thought "dang, that's pretty cheap even for a cheap rifle". I pondered it overnight, deciding that since all four of my .308s are semi-auto, it could fill a niche. So today after picking up my boy, we headed back there, and I snagged one. I had already decided the 22" barrel was too long, and that the absence of threads was unacceptable, so it came out of the box and into pieces.

18" seemed like a good length, so off came the excess 4"

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Now, the 770 is a unique design among bolt guns, using a pressed fit barrel with an extension and 3 lug bolt. Normally I pull barrels to shorten, crown & thread, but that's not really a viable option with these. Fortunately, the receiver is just under the ID of my spindle bore, so the whole barreled action went in (I do have ways of dealing with stuff larger than spindle bore, but it's much more of a hassle). Anyway, I decided I wanted to go 5/8-24, but like most sporters, the tube is too thin to have any shoulder at 5/8-24 with just .650" diameter where I cut. The way we deal with that is to make a shoulder. First I take a piece of stock, usually a leftover chunk of a >.750" diameter barrel I shortened, bore it out and thread:

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Then we part it off just over .500" long, leaving enough for clean up. This piece will form the shoulder

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Next we thread as we normally would, but we make the tenon .500" longer. In this case, I wanted .550" of threaded muzzle, so we threaded back to 1.050". Then we install the shoulder piece tight as we can go with red Loctite or Rockset and profile it to match the barrel, with a radius or taper up to the .750" diameter shoulder:

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After that we just do final clean up and cold blue, and the piece blends in. The finish on this barrel is bead blasted and some sort of black oxide, so the shoulder piece is noticeable in contrast:

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On a gloss blued barrel like this Tikka .338 I recently did, there is no evidence of a separate piece:

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At any rate, with that done, I made a knurled thread protector and reassembled the rifle (replacing the junk scope rings in the process).

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I also screwed my SiCo Hybrid on and put a couple through it in the back yard

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My overall impressions of the 770 are pretty positive. The bolt could be smoother, and magazine insertion is reminiscent of a 10/22, in that it's more finesse than gross action. But the trigger is decent, the rifle has a good feel to it (heavier than expected, but still just 7.7 lbs w/scope), and it does shoot nice. With any luck, I'll get some shots on paper later this week so I can report on accuracy. If it's close to MOA @ 100 yards, I'll have to give this one pretty high marks as an economy rifle. I have multiple 700s and other nice rifles, but a good, cheap, synthetic stocked knock-around that I'm able to throw a can on has merit. I'm sure I'll put better glass on it at some point, though.
 
Great machine work! It's always interesting to see what folks can build.

You are likely to find the 770 barrel is quite accurate. It's a button rifled Remington barrel and they tend to be consistently accurate.

The reason people hate on these is the very poorly designed bolt, cheap plastic bolt stop, and the pressed in barrel. Let's be honest and admit probably less than 1% of gun owners ever actually change out a rifle barrel so that pressed barrel complaint is disingenuous. As for the bolt and stop, they are downright awful compared to pretty much every other mass produced modern bolt gun available. If Remington fixed the bolt to operate smoothly and consistently it would have been a winner.

I suppose the true issue is there are so many other cheap entry level hunting rifles made today which are significantly nicer for close to the same price point, so why subject yourself to the 770?

They filled a nitch -- an inexpensive, safe gun for hunters who generally shoot maybe a box or so of ammo each season. For that person these rifles are perfectly workable.

I myself bought one as a loaner to take out kids and friends when it was too cheap not to buy it (under $200 at Gander Mountain a few years ago). I had no expectations and wasn't let down so to speak. Today I would get something else like the Ruger American if had to do it over.
 
I suppose the true issue is there are so many other cheap entry level hunting rifles made today which are significantly nicer for close to the same price point, so why subject yourself to the 770?

It's different, a bit more attractive and ergonomic than some of the others, and cheap enough to be that knock-around, back-up and loner, or perhaps even a primary if I go somewhere that I really don't want to drag my nicer wood & blue BDLs. Savage makes decent economy rifles, but I'm just not a fan. Ruger I swore off some time ago for various reasons.

It's not a matter of being able to afford nicer guns at all. Or even needing another. Just a bit of an impulsive, price-driven purchase with a definite tinkering component. I'm gonna see if I can't "polish a turd" a little, make the bolt operate as I feel it should. I have means to make mediocre things much better at a minimum of cost, dollar-wise, and I find entertainment in it.
 
In no way am I knocking down anyone who has a 770 or wants to take on the challenge of working out its kinks. It's too bad Remington hadn't done a better job designing the bolt. Even with their flaws, every 710/770 I've run across was a good shooter.
 
You do darn fine work--both at machining and your pictures. Unfortunately, it is getting harder for people to get work like that done affordably via gunsmiths--the competent ones are swamped and price themselves accordingly and the cheap ones often will just make things worse.

I have a good competent gunsmith in my neck of the woods who is affordable but have been waiting about one year for lathe work on two old Mauser milsurp barrels to requalify them for their receivers. He does machine work in batches and he just has not got to mine yet. I get a bit cheaper price because he knows that I am willing to wait for his product.
 
You do darn fine work--both at machining and your pictures. Unfortunately, it is getting harder for people to get work like that done affordably via gunsmiths--the competent ones are swamped and price themselves accordingly and the cheap ones often will just make things worse.

I have a good competent gunsmith in my neck of the woods who is affordable but have been waiting about one year for lathe work on two old Mauser milsurp barrels to requalify them for their receivers. He does machine work in batches and he just has not got to mine yet. I get a bit cheaper price because he knows that I am willing to wait for his product.

What really scares me is I keep seeing ads for SDI, an online gun smithing school. How the heck is one supposed to learn about working on guns, let alone machining through a computer!?!?!? That makes about as much sense as an online course in chainsaw juggling. I guess that could work if you take gunsmith as meaning a guy who screws together AR's and replaces springs in a glock.
 
What really scares me is I keep seeing ads for SDI, an online gun smithing school. How the heck is one supposed to learn about working on guns, let alone machining through a computer!?!?!? That makes about as much sense as an online course in chainsaw juggling. I guess that could work if you take gunsmith as meaning a guy who screws together AR's and replaces springs in a glock.

Honestly, a lot of gunsmiths around here are more armorers than well rounded gunsmiths. I suspect that the ones with MachIV's level talents can make a lot more doing general machine and tool work than by working on firearms. Some of those remaining that love it and are good at it eventually go big, go premium, or into something else such as training--e.g. Bill Wilson--manufacturing firearms, Turnbull with his restoration work at the high end, and Grant Cunningham who apparently does more training and industry consultation than revolver gunsmithing now. I suspect all of them make much more money that way.
 
can make a lot more doing general machine and tool work than by working on firearms

Actually, the money ain't bad. I get $90 for a barreled action cut, thread and re-crown jobs, which take about an hour for most centerfire bolt guns. And even with the shop's mark up for dealing with the customer and logging it in, we're still priced under the competition at $120 out the door; ADCO charges $140 for barreled actions, plus shipping, and other local shops are $130-$150. I get $55 for most RMR cuts, which take about 40 minutes, faster if I'm doing several of the same slides at once, like 3 or 4 Glock 17/19 slides.

A lot of the general machining stuff is more money per job, but less per hour of real time. That's largely because machine work is still a secondary business at the moment, so my rates are low. It's better to make something in my down time with automotive than sit on my hands, but as burned out as I am on wrenching after 19 years, I can still gross a lot more per hour of my actual time on most auto repair jobs.
 
Actually, the money ain't bad. I get $90 for a barreled action cut, thread and re-crown jobs, which take about an hour for most centerfire bolt guns. And even with the shop's mark up for dealing with the customer and logging it in, we're still priced under the competition at $120 out the door; ADCO charges $140 for barreled actions, plus shipping, and other local shops are $130-$150. I get $55 for most RMR cuts, which take about 40 minutes, faster if I'm doing several of the same slides at once, like 3 or 4 Glock 17/19 slides.

A lot of the general machining stuff is more money per job, but less per hour of real time. That's largely because machine work is still a secondary business at the moment, so my rates are low. It's better to make something in my down time with automotive than sit on my hands, but as burned out as I am on wrenching after 19 years, I can still gross a lot more per hour of my actual time on most auto repair jobs.

From what you've shared with us, your work is top notch and I'm not surprised that you don't lack for customers. Your prices are pretty darn reasonable too from what you've quoted.

Recently, a talented local guy was doing general barrel work and gunsmithing with his lathes and mills but he decided he could make more money just doing silencers as a wholesaler and dropped the general gunsmithing work.

I'd imagine that it is easier for a competent machinist to become a full service gunsmith than someone who started out with general mechanical knowledge in doing the same and the fact that you are more broadly trained as a machinist allows you to do the gunsmithing in your slack time but still do those other profitable jobs as you noted. A diverse income stream is useful in this time and age.
 
Had a chance to go put some rounds down range, and I'm satisfied with the accuracy. It hovers right around MOA with the 155 gr. A-Max loads (10 shot groups), a bit bigger with 150 gr. ball ammo. I'm sure it can be consistently sub-MOA once I work up a load it likes. It's a comfortable rifle to shoot, but I definitely need to work the bolt and receiver a little. Ejection is lazy, and feeding is rough if you don't apply pressure to the bolt just so.

the fact that you are more broadly trained as a machinist allows you to do the gunsmithing in your slack time but still do those other profitable jobs as you noted. A diverse income stream is useful in this time and age.

Experienced would be a better adjective than trained. I've never had any instruction, but do pick up tips & tricks when and where I can. Mostly I just learned by destroying cutters and re-making parts until they were what I wanted. Lol.

The first smithing jobs were a little nerve racking, honestly. I was confident in my abilities, but there's a big difference between goofing on a part that you have time into but not much dollar value, and attacking a piece that is worth several times what the job pays. The first barrel I ever chambered aside from my own personal critters in rimfire or pistol calibers was an $800 Proof Research tube going into a Deviant action.

Knock on wood, but thus far I've made zero mistakes. I'm very careful to always protect the part, triple check measurements, do dry runs, etc.
 
Had a chance to go put some rounds down range, and I'm satisfied with the accuracy. It hovers right around MOA with the 155 gr. A-Max loads (10 shot groups), a bit bigger with 150 gr. ball ammo. I'm sure it can be consistently sub-MOA once I work up a load it likes. It's a comfortable rifle to shoot, but I definitely need to work the bolt and receiver a little. Ejection is lazy, and feeding is rough if you don't apply pressure to the bolt just so.



Experienced would be a better adjective than trained. I've never had any instruction, but do pick up tips & tricks when and where I can. Mostly I just learned by destroying cutters and re-making parts until they were what I wanted. Lol.

The first smithing jobs were a little nerve racking, honestly. I was confident in my abilities, but there's a big difference between goofing on a part that you have time into but not much dollar value, and attacking a piece that is worth several times what the job pays. The first barrel I ever chambered aside from my own personal critters in rimfire or pistol calibers was an $800 Proof Research tube going into a Deviant action.

Knock on wood, but thus far I've made zero mistakes. I'm very careful to always protect the part, triple check measurements, do dry runs, etc.

The fact that you trained yourself is more impressive. Some people have the "touch" while others like me are stuck often at the journeyman level where we require instruction or help from others. For example, I learned the basics in oxy and arc welding taking shop in the dark ages before TIG, MIG, etc. and was decent by practice at it but never a natural. My welds were ugly but worked--requiring additional machining to make it pretty. Practice made it better but I was never as competent as someone took to it like a duck to water.
 
Fantastic job! I've been looking for a shop that could do exactly that kind of threading job with a fitted threaded collar shoulder for my hunting rifles. I sent you a PM with a few questions. Again, those really look awesome!
 
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