can light/improper firing pin strikes CAUSE hangfires/misfires/squibs? .22lr

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This is weird but my own empirical evidence suggests that my continual problems with my Ruger 22/45 MKIII and misfires may not be (solely) ammo related as I've come to believe of late. You can read the boring saga here if you want
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-22-45-mkiii-many-misfires.766880/
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...res-crappy-ammo-or-something-worn-out.815120/
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/giving-up-on-federal-22-ammo.828951/#post-10690303

but short story is I've fired over 15,000 rounds through this pistol, with the first 10,000 being primarily Federal Champion bulk plated 36 grain, with zero problems up till then. Moving into the obama years, I started seeing lots of misfires. I replaced every part I could think of, some multiple times. Still having problems. Got to the point where I can't trust this pistol for matches and it's frustrating for target shooting and plinking.

Today I opened a different box of Federal 325 bulk plated 36 grain to see if maybe it was a lot problem. Fired 34 rounds through my JC Higgins model 31. First round was a dud, but all others fired fine and felt identical in recoil and report. I decided to give them a try in my 22/45 and fired 8 mags. Had multiple hangfires (!!), several misfires, multiple "soft" rounds that went off but failed to cycle the bolt, and another SQUIB. I kept a range rod handy after every failure and checked the bore.

I then loaded another mag tube full in the JC Higgins, first round was a dud, the rest fired perfectly and sounded and felt identical.

I'm baffled. I'm thinking of calling Ruger again but I don't really know what they can do or say. I really like this pistol.

I want to replace the upper receiver now just to see if there's something weird there. It's the only thing I haven't tried. Anyone have one lying around? Maybe from a Pac-Lite upgrade?
 
What did the primer strikes on the squib and soft rounds look like? Are they even in length and depth as the rounds that fired normally?
 
Per the title... I would not think so because primer compound is high explosive, right? I have to think that if that stuff lights, its all going...
That being said, its odd that the same ammo fires almost perfectly in the rifle but not in your pistol... You did have a couple duds... In theory, its possible that you put more bad rounds the pistol mag and more good rounds in the rifle mag.
The hang fire rounds are most troubling. I can't remember having a hang fire that wasn't a black powder rifle. If indeed you have hang fires, I suspect the primer compound itself is the problem..

Try this- hold off on the federal bulk(everyone seems to be having problems with it). Get some better grade ammo, CCI mini mags for example, and try your experiment again. Record your results, then go back to testing the federal bulk rounds.
This way you may be able to prove/disprove your pistol as the problem.
 
Has the barrel been changed?
Maybe the chamber has worn down enough to cause light strikes?
I assume you changed the firing pin and cleaned out the FP channel?
How about the trigger spring?
Changed?
15,000 rounds can wear one out.
Just throwing random thoughts out there.
 
Firing pin 3X, cleaned. Mainspring 2x, rebound spring and plunger 2x.

Out of curiosity I called ruger about possibly replacing or selling me an upper at a discount and she said they have no more MKIIIs. (the upper receiver, the serialized portion). Only MKIVs.

What did the primer strikes on the squib and soft rounds look like? Are they even in length and depth as the rounds that fired normally?
They all look the same to me.

The hang fire rounds are most troubling. I can't remember having a hang fire that wasn't a black powder rifle. If indeed you have hang fires, I suspect the primer compound itself is the problem..

Try this- hold off on the federal bulk(everyone seems to be having problems with it). Get some better grade ammo, CCI mini mags for example, and try your experiment again. Record your results, then go back to testing the federal bulk rounds.
This way you may be able to prove/disprove your pistol as the problem.

I have done this and CCI ammo seems to run fine for the most part. But I have had some problems with it and multiple other brands as well.

What I find bizarre is the hangfires/squibs. I've NEVER had a single squib in .22LR or hangfires until recently and only in this pistol.

I think I'll try to find an upper for a decent price.
 
VQ trigger, VQ sear, Clark hammer bushing, LCI removed. bolt and hammer and barreled receiver and mainspring and recoil spring assy are stock. Which from what I can surmise, are the only parts involved in the process. Firing pin OEM and modified OEM and VQ all have the same issues.
 
I would borrow someone else's gun and first try just swapping lowers. If the problem persists, I would swap lowers and bolts and try again.
 
What is the trigger pull weight, using an accurate method.? Real weights, no spring types.

If the hammer sear engagement is not correct, the hammer will follow the bolt down. Depending on timing delay, misfires or full auto fire is possible.

The timing delay is when engagement starts but the hammer slips off the sear, not staying cocked.
 
I've tried swapping bolts and lowers but I'll do it again for fun. I'll measure the trigger with my lyman digital which is the only method I have. Not getting hammer follow 99.9999% sure. Thanks for all the help and ideas though.
 
Its no longer a "Ruger" with all the new parts.
Yeah, that was my concern. I could drop the OEM guts back in but I also have a custom grip panel mod done which they wouldn't be happy about. She said they'd give all aftermarket parts back and return the gun to OEM condition. But the problem (I suspect) is the upper and she says they're out of those anyway.
 
Trigger weight is 1 lb 13 oz. Very nice trigger. I'll throw the crappy OEM trigger and sear back in and see if that does anything; may as well, as I've tried everything else I can think of.
 
I've tried swapping bolts and lowers but I'll do it again for fun.

And what happened when you did?

I am believing that gun has a damaged chamber from being fired without the firing pin stop in place, or it had a elongated hole in the firing pin that allowed it to travel too far and hit the chamber.
 
Firing pin OEM and modified OEM and VQ all have the same issues.
Check protrusion of the pin in the gun. Should stop just short of the barrel face. Might be able to fit a few shims on the barrel face to check. Shims from a soda can are about .004" thick.

For more protrusion , remove a little metal here. 20171205_185421.jpg

I only have experence with the MK 1. Yours model may be different.
 
And what happened when you did?

I am believing that gun has a damaged chamber from being fired without the firing pin stop in place, or it had a elongated hole in the firing pin that allowed it to travel too far and hit the chamber.
I'll have to reread those linked threads to remember properly. Chamber and rim portion shows no damage and looks good. HOWEVER there is some metal chipped/flaked off the rear of the barrel face from about 12 to 4 oclock. I thought it was just blueing wear but closer inspection shows it's been damaged/flaked off where the bolt impacts. I wonder if that's allowing some weirdness when seating the rim or something.
 
Checking firing pin protrusion, with bolt removed from gun. Place this strip flat across the bolt face. Push firing pin fully forward. There should be a tiny bit of light between pin and the disk. The disk should face the firing pin.

Made with a soda can , a paper punch to make the disk and double back tape.

FiringPinGauge.JPG
 
I had an issue with a damaged point on a Buckmark firing pin that was causing some misfires. I was able to clean it up and save it, fortunately, because it is the older style which is unavailable.

Any kind of crud, normal wear, or slight damage etc could slow things down and cause issues.
 
did you clean out all the crud from the extractor cutout on the barrel? a dental pick works for me. a buildup of crud could prevent the bolt from closing.

luck,

murf
 
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