Just ran across this photo of a 10-22 target shot 18 years ago as a "Prove-It Target" submittal.

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That is great! Thanks for sharing, especially the photos!

Geno
 
A 10/22 with a better barrel can just plain shoot! Old thread using more pedestrian ammo, NRA 50 ft target shot at 50 yards off sandbags:
index.php


Original thread from 2005:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-10-22-transformation.131138/#post-1613719
Some of the photos appear to have been lost. The target on the left was various "bulk pack" cheap ammo, the target on the right was with some of the less expensive "match" ammo.

Took an old 10/22 that had been a "blaster" with a Muzzlelite Bullpup stock and swapped in a "Target Sports" fluted bull barrel ($99.99), Hogue overmold stock ($49.99), and Weaver 10/22 mount base ($4.99) all from CDNN, and a 4-16x40 mildot BSA scope ($59.95) from Natchez. I had the rings. Prices from 2005. I believe the CDNN "Target Sports" barrel was made by "Green Mountain".

All were 10-shot groups.
 
Wally: Very good groups, considering the ammo!
Some of the things that improved accuracy for my 10-22 include, headspace reduction, firing pin tuning, relief of operating handle (eliminates first-shot flyers), and considerable upward forend pressure pad that forces the rear of "single screw" action down into the bedding.
 
Picher

Some outstanding accuracy out of your 10/22! Group #2 at .191" had to be a winner!
 
wally

Likewise some fine shooting from your 10/22 as well! I get similar results with my 10/22 with CCI Standard Velocity, CCI MiniMags, and Wolf Match Target ammo.
 
When I saw the target my thought was "that wasn't done with an out of the box 10/22" and sure enough it wasn't. I have built up a couple that will do the same as yours and they really like Wolf Match Target ammo with CCI SV not too far behind. .
 
Wally: Very good groups, considering the ammo!
Some of the things that improved accuracy for my 10-22 include, headspace reduction, firing pin tuning, relief of operating handle (eliminates first-shot flyers), and considerable upward forend pressure pad that forces the rear of "single screw" action down into the bedding.
Do changes in humidity/season affect the POI with your bedding method? Just curious about the wood stock and pressure.
 
Do changes in humidity/season affect the POI with your bedding method? Just curious about the wood stock and pressure.
Haven't noticed any shift in POI. The stock is well-sealed inside and has pretty uniform grain. Besides the forend pad, the barrel is bedded for a couple of inches from the receiver. The stiffness of the bull-barrel helps consistency.
 
I couldn't touch those groups, even eighteen years ago - great shooting! I do admire a custom10/22, though. Mine has a Kidd barrel and trigger group. I went with a Victor Titan II stock. Shoots good, but I can't get groups like yours. Ruger1022.jpg
 
Well, it’s kinda a 10/22. It’s like lifting off the radiator cap, driving a new car under it, then installing the cap and claiming it’s the original car. When you replace the barrel, stock, and trigger it’s no longer a 10/22 in my world. Usually only thing original is the receiver and even it probably has been reworked.

In any event, those are some great groups.

Have any of you guys that have done that consider that you may have as much invested as you would in a high quality target rifle that would shoot the same groups out of the box? And the target rifle is worth a lot more when you’re done?

Maybe there’s some type of satisfaction in building up the rifle. Dunno. It’s your money and time. Knock yourself out
 
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I've heard of/understand the rest but I can't say I'm familiar with one,,, Can you help me to better understand the general gist of this one?
Thanks!!!
The operating handle normally fit tightly in the bolt slot. I theorized that the first shot was made after racking the bolt by hand and that the slot in the operating handle where the firing pin runs could be binding the firing pin on the first shot, but at that shot and bolt movement, was freed-up by the bolt movement.

The cure was to file the operating handle, so it fit loosely in the bolt slot and not bind the firing pin when manually cycling the bolt. It proved successful! This was written up on Rimfire Central and others found that it worked for their rifles as well.

I did a bunch of mods to the bolt, including deepening the stake marks in the top, to make firing pin strikes more uniform, grinding the bolt face to reduce headspace to rim thickness. Also, reshaped the firing pin nose to increase strike depth and keep the top of the pin from striking too high on shell rims. The result was very uniform ignition.
 
Good shooting (and a nice shootin' iron). Perhaps we should start a rimfire "Prove It" thread? I haven't shot the 10/22 in a while, and now you have me interested ...
 
Good shooting (and a nice shootin' iron). Perhaps we should start a rimfire "Prove It" thread? I haven't shot the 10/22 in a while, and now you have me interested ...
I haven't shot groups with my 10-22 for a long time, so don't know whether accuracy has deteriorated or not. I deliberately didn't shoot it in the Plinker class in the rimfire benchrest matches I ran because we were trying to encourage people to come. However, a couple of guys who used my accurizing tips did very well!
 
I've been thinking about buying another 10-22 and set it up for my small game hunting/plinking down back. The bull-barreled one is kind of heavy for carrying around for miles, at least at my age.
 
The operating handle normally fit tightly in the bolt slot. I theorized that the first shot was made after racking the bolt by hand and that the slot in the operating handle where the firing pin runs could be binding the firing pin on the first shot, but at that shot and bolt movement, was freed-up by the bolt movement.

The cure was to file the operating handle, so it fit loosely in the bolt slot and not bind the firing pin when manually cycling the bolt. It proved successful! This was written up on Rimfire Central and others found that it worked for their rifles as well.

I did a bunch of mods to the bolt, including deepening the stake marks in the top, to make firing pin strikes more uniform, grinding the bolt face to reduce headspace to rim thickness. Also, reshaped the firing pin nose to increase strike depth and keep the top of the pin from striking too high on shell rims. The result was very uniform ignition.

Very interesting... was burnishing / polishing enough ? or ... do you have a link to the Rimfire Central thread ?
 
Very interesting... was burnishing / polishing enough ? or ... do you have a link to the Rimfire Central thread ?
Just go to Rimfire Central and seek the Tips and Tricks section...I think that's what it's still called. Look for my name and click on it. I'll also try to find my copy.
 
About five or six years ago, I was thinking of buying a 10/22 to modify. As it turned out, I found an original 1965 10/22, like new, in box. It even had the $59.99 price tag from Sears on it. Real walnut stock, all metal construction, and the nice anodizing they used back then.
So, I decided that at most, I would think about alterations that didn’t affect its pristine original appearance.
However, I wanted to shoot it first. I mounted a cheap 4x Barska rimfire scope on it, and went to the range.

After sighting it in, I moved the target out to 80yds. Shooting Blazer bulk, I shot numerous 10 round groups that could be covered with dime...

After that, I decided I wouldn’t change a thing.
 
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