Highway Patrolman - bad charge hole ---

When you are finished I think you will have a revolver you enjoy shooting more than you now realize. I LOVED shooting my mdl 27. Sadly my brother convinced my I needed a 4" 66 instead. I was never that impressed with it for accuracy and shooting enjoyment.

Actually you’re in a splendid situation.
With the tight cylinder, all it needs is the barrel faced back a few thousandths.
This doesn’t require a lathe or barrel removal, but does require the correct tools. A decent revolver smith will have the required facing cutter, forcing cone cutter, and handle with bushings. It’s about a 30min job.
I actually happen to have those tools. I was given mine by a retired smith, but they are readily available from Brownells.

Now you just need to find the right gunsmith.

When finished you’ll likely have a better than new M28!
Due to demands of production quotas, the factory techs just throw them together with sorted parts. No special attention.
I’ve sent several “Smiths” back to the Performance Center for “refitting” under warranty. Others, the charges were very reasonable.
One came with a bad charge hole (chamber). Not unlike what you’ve got. It’s now the most accurate revolver I’ve ever owned and I won the Distinguished match at the NPSC with it.

If you are a little tight thats better than a little loose. If it were me I would grind the teeth off the side of a file and make a shield so you can't cut into the top strap. Next i would paint the back of the barrel with Dykem Blue and very carefully start filing the barrel. keep the Blue on it so yoy can be sure you are staying square and just refit the cylinder. Thats about all a GS is going to do.

if you measure the length of the old to the new cylinder that will give you an idea of how much will need to be removed. If more than around .010 you may want to just have the new cylinder faced off.

I guess its too late now but you could have had the one damaged cylinder sleeved. That way everything would have matched and the timing be correct.

I would not remove material from the cylinder unless it isn't square. It's better to trim the barrel stub and recut the forcing cone. I know it's too late now but I would have sent the original cylinder to Gary Reeder to see if it was still viable for rechambering to his .356 GNR (.41 Mag necked down to .357).

DWFan said:

I know it's too late now but I would have sent the original cylinder to Gary Reeder to see if it was still viable for rechambering to his .356 GNR (.41 Mag necked down to .357).

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Personally, I'd go 357 Bain and Davis. 44mag brass necked down to 357. You could still send the old cylinder in and make it a swap caliber!

This post is somewhat dated (old) but I was wondering about the progress to date. I hope events have turned out well in your favor.

Was any attempt made to determine the cause of the bulged chamber; an overcharge or an obstructed barrel? You may want to “slug” the bore with the idea of eliminating/finding a bulge in the barrel. You also may want to blueprint the gun and make sure it’s still in spec. Enough pressure to bulge a chamber may also be sufficient to stretch the frame or cylinder window. There’s a lot less steel at the top of the frame and it usually gives first. The front and rear of the cylinder window really needs to remain parallel so that each chamber is rotating in perfect alignment with the bore and not entering at an angle. I would suggest enlisting the aid of a competent revolver smith and have things checked out before starting to file on things.

Good luck,

kerf

I don't think it's an ammo problem, as the ejection problems only happen in one charge hole. I see two options either go to the time and expense of replacing the cylinder, or mark the bad charge hole and don't load it. Best of luck..

I was pleased to see this thread back up, hoping for a better resolution. When you do get the HP up and running, please let us know.

I would agree with walkalong, mark the bad hole and just shoot 5. But i also understand not wanting to do that for various reasons.

Edit- lol, yeah a bit farther along than i read. That's what i get for reading one page and deciding to post my thoughts. You did the right thing and i admire that. Good job and good luck!!

GooseGestapo said:

Actually you’re in a splendid situation.
With the tight cylinder, all it needs is the barrel faced back a few thousandths.
This doesn’t require a lathe or barrel removal, but does require the correct tools. A decent revolver smith will have the required facing cutter, forcing cone cutter, and handle with bushings. It’s about a 30min job.
I actually happen to have those tools. I was given mine by a retired smith, but they are readily available from Brownells.

Now you just need to find the right gunsmith.

When finished you’ll likely have a better than new M28!
Due to demands of production quotas, the factory techs just throw them together with sorted parts. No special attention.
I’ve sent several “Smiths” back to the Performance Center for “refitting” under warranty. Others, the charges were very reasonable.
One came with a bad charge hole (chamber). Not unlike what you’ve got. It’s now the most accurate revolver I’ve ever owned and I won the Distinguished match at the NPSC with it.

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No more than most of us use these things, it's probably more cost effective to rent what you need. Nice to have your own, and I have a few, but not everything.

I've rented from:

https://4drentals.com/

BSA1 said:

1. Over pressure cartridge. Most likely using reloaded ammunition that was loaded too hot. That is why the owner got rid of it. The reason the gun did not grenade is because it is so overbuilt.

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And I respectfully disagree.
IF it were only 1 cartridge that did it, then maybe.
But if it's multiple rounds, always in the same charge hole, then the problem is the charge hole not the ammo.
(I have the same issue with a SAA 45 Colt)

Shoulda went with the gold cylinder... probably would have dropped right in...

HAHAHA I'm just kidding. I wish you the best of luck, I hate it when things get complicated...

My experience with N frames with a "blown cylinder" involved a 27. The handgun was a 70's vintage and came second hand. The gun had problems extracting from the start. Returned it to Smith who decided the ejector rod had come unscrewed. This was baloney. The gun became worse to the point it was quickly retired. Back to Smith. This lap it was decided the cylinder was "blown." Cylinder was replaced on my dime. I'll have that pistol for life. The new cylinder was not recessed. Gun works fine. Same thing happened exactly with a Model 29. Again this was fixed on my dime. Gun was updated and repaired. The last two visits to home planet were OK. All this was a lesson on N frame Smiths.

Waverski:. Best check with the company for current information. This happened 2005-that's then this is now. The handgun that time was a used Model 29 Silhouette model. On firing the brass was swollen in one chamber. The charge was $290.00-diagnosis was a "blown cylinder." That included an update.The update included modifications to the locking bolt. The cylinder would free wheel prior to update. That was in the ballpark for the Model 27. To me, that one bulged cylinder tells me an overload. I'd rather go that way, send it back, than risk another generation of problems with a handgun. I'm not afraid of buying second hand Smiths. I need to be mindful or the pitfalls.

K frame owner:I called the factory for advice on a Model 19. Lady firmly stated the the company had no more 19 frame cylinders or barrels. Check there for more recent information.

Waveski said:

Well , each situation is specific to the individual. For me , the Highway Patrolman is a classic of aesthetically attractive design . The partial lug is spot on , to my eye. I guess that is why I acquired it. On the other hand , I do not carry 357 for SD , and I see no point in buying 357 magnum for punching holes in paper and plinking. (if that term applies to a high power caliber ...?) I carry .38 +p in J frames and therefor practice with 38 ; and I have a lot of K frames for recreation. All of which means that I am not all that eager to spend money to correct my one and only 357. Do I need an N frame? Not really ... do I fix and keep it because it is a handsome , iconic revolver ? ..... don't know yet.

If I were to cut my losses and sell to someone who wishes to take corrective measures I would be thinking $350 , since you asked. Is that realistic?

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DO you still have the gun ?

M29-No I traded it to a friend some years back. He had a local dealer sell it on consignment.

Waveski said:

Would you remember , and are you willing to share , what that cylinder replacement by S&W cost you? And , to keep it in perspective , how long ago it took place?

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Do you still have the gun

Dropped the ball. My previous post was corrected. One swollen chamber, not a swollen cylinder. indicates an overload. It was called a "blown cylinder" by the factor rep. Handgun is now moved on into other hands.