10/22 Improvement

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I momentarily considered keeping the walnut Sporter for myself and dropping in a Feddersen 17” contoured barrel. But the wife needed a .22 and replacing broken parts on her Model 60 will cost nearly as much as a new one.

Still mulling over a 70PSS, 10/22 TD, or the new TCR-22 as my next rimfire purchase.
 
Old Stumpy said:
The best tip that I can think of for newer production 10-22 rifles is to take them apart and inspect them.
My current carbine had feed issues and accuracy issues. Turned out that the barrel screws were not tightened properly. One was actually loose.
There was some material in the receiver near the chamber that should have been removed from the receiver casting, but wasn't.
Loosen off the magazine spring and wind it to the spec number of turns. Mine was way too tight.
Polish the inside of the magazine lips if they seem to need it.
Stone and polish the edges of the bolt if they seem sharp-edged so it slides easier and reduces wear on the receiver surfaces.
I rounded over the bottom corner of the bolt slightly where it over-rides the hammer to reduce friction.
Wipe off all of the anti-rust coatings on new gun internals. Lubricate the recoil spring with moly graphite grease and the bolt with gun oil.
Check the edge of the chamber for burrs or a sharp edge and polish it slightly with 600 grit emery paper if so. (Careful, just a bit of polishing)
Before torquing down the barrel screws, make sure that the extractor is well centered in the extractor groove in the barrel.
Click to expand...
then submit time sheet to Ruger
 
mshootnit said:
then submit time sheet to Ruger
Click to expand...

It's the way of the world now. I've owned several Rugers in the past few years. They all had flaws that never should have missed inspection.
- poorly fitted loading gate on a Stainless Super Blackhawk.
- improperly assembled rear sight with spring out of place on a Single Six.
- bad crown with burrs after 5 rounds on an SR1911.
I rectified all of the problems myself. It was easier than sending it back.
 
Last edited:
I replaced the factory barrel V-block with a Tactical Solutions V-block to stop the barrel slop and free float the barrel, removed the barrel band, and replaced the trigger with Ruger's BX drop in. What a world of difference for $80!
 
Within the last year I’ve bought the following:

BX trigger on sale for $40.00.
Simmons 4x28 on sale for $30.00.
Scope mount rail on sale for $8.00.
Sling and swivels on sale for $12.00.

Before the trigger was gritty and really heavy. It shot well enough, but the trigger wasn’t good for small groups. Now, my 1985 Ruger 10-22 shoots like a champ with these changes.

Stay safe!
 
Old Stumpy said:
It's the way of the world now. I've owned several Rugers in the past few years. They all had flaws that never should have missed inspection.
- poorly fitted loading gate on a Stainless Super Blackhawk.
- improperly assembled rear sight with spring out of place on a Single Six.
- bad crown with burrs after 5 rounds on an SR1911.
I rectified all of the problems myself. It was easier than sending it back.
Click to expand...

Duh.....Ruger

Running off to hide now.
 
The AMT 25/22 with the synthetic stock is the closest I have to the 10/22. Few years back put a BX trigger into it and that was enough to make the difference from the AMT 6# trigger down to 3.5#'s. Fitted with a Leupold M8-4X scope on it.

Had the Marlin 60 in stainless with Redfield 2-7x33 Revolution out today. Both fun in their own way, I wouldn't want to give up either. The 10/22 has more goodies to siphon $ out of the wallet. :cool:
 
mshootnit said:
My perfect 10/22 would have a 20" sporter barrel with sights, deluxe walnut stock, and improved trigger.
Click to expand...
School me on why the longer barrel is better on the 10/22. I am guessing quieter and not necessarily better ballistics or accuracy?
 
Picher said:
I worked my BIL's Stainless 10-22 over, doing most of the things I did to mine and it still didn't shoot worth a darn. We then put a new Stainless bull-barrel from Cabela's on it and suddenly, was fantastic! It wasn't one of the best name barrel brands, but I can't remember what it was. It shot about as well as my Shilen-barreled rifle.

A couple of mods that yielded great improvement were:
1. Filing the sides/bottom of the operating handle and smoothing them so it moves easily in the bolt slot. Years ago, I discovered that this prevents first-shot flyers!!!

2. If the firing pin end is flat and not making deep dents in rims, narrow it up and take a little off the top, so it impacts below the "fold" of the rim because there's no priming compound there and it's taking away from the energy needed to adequately dent the shell. The upper portion of the rim that hits the priming compound area of the rim should be slightly longer than the bottom and the lower pin nose shaped to fan the flame out to the sides. Caution: Don't make the nose of the firing pin sharp...but the edges rounded. You may want to a Google search on Calfee's firing pin modifications.

I don't know how I've lived so many years with only one 10-22, but if you have one that shoots almost 1/2 MOA why do I need another?
Click to expand...
 
I bought a new one twenty or more years ago when a sports store went out of business. I traded the birch stock for an older walnut one. Put new hammer and buffer in. Fast forward, I picked up a Kidd trigger, an ERShaw barrel with Bentz chamber and a takeoff laminated Ruger target stock. So, far, gun, 125, trigger, 100, barrel, 100, misc parts 50, scope, 200. Shoots 33% better than a Ruger target I had and doesn't throw the first round 3/8" out. Took the takeoff parts and put them on another one. Now I have two extra standard stocks, one blue and one stainless barrel and a couple trigger groups taking up space.
 
dodo bird said:
School me on why the longer barrel is better on the 10/22. I am guessing quieter and not necessarily better ballistics or accuracy?
Click to expand...

Not at all. The stock barrels provide no more accuracy or velocity, than when cut down to 12"
There MAY have been more muzzle report, I did not measure, but I shoot suppressed anyway.
 
RA40 said:
The AMT 25/22 with the synthetic stock is the closest I have to the 10/22. Few years back put a BX trigger into it and that was enough to make the difference from the AMT 6# trigger down to 3.5#'s. Fitted with a Leupold M8-4X scope on it.

Had the Marlin 60 in stainless with Redfield 2-7x33 Revolution out today. Both fun in their own way, I wouldn't want to give up either. The 10/22 has more goodies to siphon $ out of the wallet. :cool:
Click to expand...

As an experiment I tried a Ruger trigger assembly on my AMT for a short time, but there was just enough dimensional difference on my rifle to prevent reliable function. Not a big deal since the original AMT trigger is fine, but I thought it was an interesting thing to try. My AMT was a fairly early production example, and now sports a Green Mountain bull barrel and target sights. A good shooter!

AMT1022.jpg
 
Dave DeLaurant said:
As an experiment I tried a Ruger trigger assembly on my AMT for a short time, but there was just enough dimensional difference on my rifle to prevent reliable function. Not a big deal since the original AMT trigger is fine, but I thought it was an interesting thing to try. My AMT was a fairly early production example, and now sports a Green Mountain bull barrel and target sights. A good shooter!
Click to expand...

Nice! I've considered installing a bull barrel on the AMT. Have read some conflicting issues with the aftermarket 10/22 barrels in the AMT receiver that there may be a few ticks more headspace.
 
I got to thinking and the only original parts on my target model described above are the receiver, bolt, and scope base.
 
I played that game for a while, and the improved rifle was very accurate but for some reason I just didn't like it. Now that target barrell, reconfigured stock etc. Sit in a corner after I bought a factory take off from someone else and put it back to regular. The single best thing I did was to install a trigger stop, in my case I simply glued on a piece of eraser as a test. Worked so well I never changed it. Wish I had sold it and bought a nice bolt action instead.
 
RA40 said:
Nice! I've considered installing a bull barrel on the AMT. Have read some conflicting issues with the aftermarket 10/22 barrels in the AMT receiver that there may be a few ticks more headspace.
Click to expand...

The Green Mountain bull barrel went into my AMT's receiver without hassle. Haven't noticed any indications of headspace problems with mine on fired brass, though the chamber is pretty tight (Benz spec) and I have had the occasional failure to extract once fouling accumulates. If I recall correctly, I bought mine at a discount through Midsouth or Natchez about ten years ago.


I had a local smith install a dovetail riser for the Lyman front sight so it would work with a L. Walther diopter rear from my parts stash. The rig shoots better than I can.
 
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