10/22 Improvement

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kBob

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I sit here tonight accused of that most vile crime, knowing that I suffer from 10/22 Improvement Disease and willingly spreading it far and wide.

Can you imagine how I feel about such claims? Many of you have "known" me for well over a decade on THR and, well, can you imagine?

I thought if some of you folks could share some of the Do It Yourself tips you have actually used on 10/22 s and found to be useful improvements that my accusser could see that I am nothing at all unusual and not sinister in the least.

I mean I have just been encouraging him to improve his 10/22 sighting system, in this case with Tech Sights and a few minor tweeks. But he thinks it all some plot of a secret order of some sort to lure him into a never ending search for perfection in a man made object that can never really be found.

Shoot if a few of you guys had good ones that he could see did not require a degree in Engineering to pull off he might even be tempted to try a few himself.....

….and maybe even be successful at making an improvement he can see...

...and then try more…..

AND THEN WE'VE GOT HIM!!!!! BRU-HA-HA-HA!!!!!

I am trying to go slow with and easy, like, polishing the trigger return spring, plunger, and hole. I mean that ain't rocket science.

Seriously any kitchen table top, un powered hand tool mods you guys might suggest would be welcome.

Excuse me, I seem to be late for my evening dose of Ballistoil….

-kBob
 
10-22s can be sensitive to the torque of the action screw. after getting good groups i use those stickers for covering up holes in target, just put in on the stock over the stock screw and draw a line that matches up with the flat head screw. so when you take down the rifle you can get the torque pretty close. we are all guilty off doing stuff to 10-22 that the rifle did not need. i would like to get a mannlicher one just to keep me from changing thing lol.
 
I improved mine on a budget with parts bought off Ebay BX trigger,auto bolt release ,HD extractor and over sized receiver pins. Bad thing didn't shoot it for a year and sold it couple weeks ago.
 
There is a treatment program that is sometimes very effective in treating "10/22 Improvement disease" and I'm glad I found out about it early. Just sit down and total up the cost of those things like match grade barrels, trigger improvements, stocks, and the myriad of other parts and accessories available to build a very nice 10/22. Then look at how much it all will cost. Then think about using that money towards another rifle or improvements to another gun you already own..... Worked for me. I was already happy with my 10/22 as a general small game and plinking gun so I decided to leave it pretty much 'as is" with only an inexpensive 2-7x scope on it. I must admit that the improvement idea was pretty tempting for some time until I used that projected improvement cost toward the price of another rifle which I really wanted.
 
I have $400 in my 10/22 build.
That's the Weaver base, Volq hammer, Titan stock and GM bbl.
NOT counting scope and rings.
Used '95 receiver/trigger housing........sold the orig stock (non walnut mannlicher) and had the rest for free :)
Factory bolt, haven't checked headspace. Did .4 at 50 yards for 5 shots w a 12X scope and match ammo
View attachment 828286
 
I have a '71 Fingergroove that got a stoned hammer. paid $250
Haven't shot it yet, am a bit OCD and it needs a stock refinish.
Also could use the trigger housing coated (Brownells was out of matte black Gunkote last I checked............that will add 32 bucks IIRC).
I have the stuff to clean up the stock already.
 
I dropped in an aftermarket trigger and called it good. That tightened up my groups by a huge amount. OTOH, if I really think I will have to make a 50 yard small game shot I bring the 39A. 20 to 40 yards and the 10/22 will do fine. If I am going for the tightest accuracy I can get, I usually with shoot centerfire rifle.
 
BX trigger is an easy one.
After that, a Magpul X22 stock.
In the harder to get category I would add a suppressor and use RWS Target Rifle ammo. Nothing will get you grinning faster!
 
Hookeye said:
I have $400 in my 10/22 build.
That's the Weaver base, Volq hammer, Titan stock and GM bbl.
NOT counting scope and rings.
Used '95 receiver/trigger housing........sold the orig stock (non walnut mannlicher) and had the rest for free :)
Factory bolt, haven't checked headspace. Did .4 at 50 yards for 5 shots w a 12X scope and match ammo
View attachment 828286
Click to expand...
Ruger should offer that exact config. from the factory. Great job!
 
This is a 10-22 "deluxe model" I got 31 years ago. Back then, Ruger only made 2 versions- the regular one and this one with the checkered stock and no barrel band. It is the only one I have ever owned or fired. I have no idea how many rounds I have through it, or how many critters and cans have fallen to it. Full disclosure, I had never took it apart for a "full cleaning" until a year or 2 ago, and I needed a youtube video to do so, in order to get about 30 years of gunk out of it. Improvements include a base and scope- an old oakshore 1.5-4x. Also the flea market sling. It has never malfunctioned, and has always hit 1" pasters at 50 yards. I know there is unlimited options for other "improvements", but I just don't see the point.
1022.JPG
 
One time I inadvertently stripped a scope base hole on a 10/22 receiver. So I went to hardware store and bought the next size larger button head hex cap screw and a tap. With some work on my drill press, drilling and countersinking the base, and receiver, this ended up being a nice result.
 
I'm like Trey Veston and FL-NC in that with the exception of adding a scope, some large capacity magazines, and sling swivels my 10/22 has pretty much remained box stock since I bought it 40 years ago. Quite content with the trigger as is and haven't seen the need to make any other adjustments or change out any parts as accuracy is great with Wolf Match Target and CCI MiniMags.
 
Well, removing the bolt and using a ScotchBrite pad to smooth up the interior of the receiver is cheap and easy. The "auto-bolt release" modification of the bolt catch lever is pretty easy and there are a ton of resources on the internet to guide one through the process. Or you can just swap the stock lever with an aftermarket part that costs about $12. And a synthetic bolt stop pin is cheap. I am unconvinced that they really provide any great functional benefit, but they do make cycling the bolt and shooting the rifle a bit more pleasant. If the stock does not have sling swivels I would add them, and swivel studs if the stock does not already have them. And a USGI web sling is quite inexpensive, serves well for carry and quite well for use as a loop sling for rifle stabilization when shooting.

With my eyes, better sights than the stock sights on the 10/22 are a must. Tech Sights are certainly a good option. Another is to get an inexpensive Bushnell TRS-25 red dot sight on sale and mount it on the stock Ruger accessory rail. Or you could get the rail-mounted TS-200 RL Tech Sight set which would allow the use of either the iron sights, a micro red dot, or both.

After the sights, the next modification that I would make would be the trigger. A Tier 3 trigger job by Brimstone Gunsmithing provides a lot of bang for the buck. Ruger 10/22s do not provide a sufficient length of pull for me. An aftermarket stock is certainly an option but I have usually just added an aftermarket recoil pad.
 
Just drop in a Volq hammer for what is it........29 bucks?
Might be good enough, no need for the whole trigger group.

FWIW 10/22 receivers are soft and stripped scope base holes pretty common.
6-48 they are and if going up to 8-40, well..........your scope base aint gonna work.
There are larger screw scope bases, and then you'd have to mod all the receiver holes.

OR.....................

You can get the Brownells tap and oddball 48 thread screws and use those, still run you regular 6-48 style scope base.
Tap and a dozen screws will run you 40 bucks. Screws are long, will need shortened.

Saw on another site where guys say "just buy the screws and make one into a tap". While that might work, that sure seems Bubba.
Reminds me to not buy stuff from those rubes.

I bought a used 10/22 w one hole screwed up and bought the kit.
Figure my LGS will get a couple in that need fixed and I'll recoup my cost :)
 
Yeah it's a beater, but the old Sporter stocks really make the gun feel better.
IMHO Ruger should have done a stainless w black plastic version of this stock (checkered like the SPC).....as their 50th anniv model.



View attachment 828360
 
This one was a freakin' shotgun.
Stock inlet wrong (barrel channel one side and most of the problem at the tip- Overton stocks were hollowed out under most of the bbl, had to sand a bit to fix it). Think guy said his brother bought it new in '67.............it had to have shot like crap for 50 yrs LOL.
Did way better after stock mod.
View attachment 828362
 
I refinished that stock and sold it.
Moved the metal into a CWP mannlicher stock that had a blem (factory second). Turns out the blem right where my cut was gonna be.
So I ended up w a sporter, grip cap and pad, for reg bbl contour.
Took this pic before I added the front swivel stud. LOL........thought I had one, nope. Had to go to shop.
View attachment 828363
 
I did not handle a Titan stock before I bought it. nor did I mess with a GM heavy Taper 19".
The end result is OK. A bit heavy (but .5 # lighter than if I'd gone full bull fluted)..........and I'm not keen on the vertical grip on a hunting rig.
Usable, shoots good enough for me..........but is lacking the feel.

The gap in stock, due to running the heavy taper bbl and not a full .920.........I didn't care about. Still don't care about :)

Can't drop the GM bbl into the Fingergroove, sides would be super thin after inlet.
If it doesn't shoot well, try a GM 20" sporter bbl.
 
Last edited:
I have another pre warning bbl I could send off for tune up, but it needs reblued or cerakoted.
The one on the beater FG looks good enough.
 
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