lead fouling a barrel

Just clean it as a normal cleaning. Use some solvent and a NEW bronze brush. Lead removal requires elbow grease, there is not solvent that really dissolves lead (contrary to internet ads) Revolvers are meant for lead.

But then there is the proper size and hardness of the lead bullets, slugging the bore and all that stuff to prevent "leading"
If all is correct and velocity is right there should be NO leading

What kind of wad cutters? Full. semi, BHN, what powder?? etc etc.

Depending on circumstances and the pistol you're shooting them in, you may have no leading, or there can be lead at the forcing cone going forward some distance, or it can be down the bore itself. There are various ways to remove it, including lead wipes, lead removing screens, Chore Boy copper cleaning pads wrapped around a brush and solvents supposedly dedicated to dissolving lead fouling. Most of the lead fouling I see in my own pistols tends to be at or near the forcing cone, and much of what will dictate how much you see will be related to bullet diameter, hardness, lubricant, and the pressure of the load itself.

Keep the load lighter then your jackted loads. Proper bullet fit is the most important part to stop leading. Some chorboy copper lot scrubber raped around a cleaning brush works good, use some fun oil to.

IF you have leading, and you might not, here's an article on lead removal:

https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2017/6/26/how-to-clean-tough-lead-deposits-from-your-barrel

I shoot a cylinder or two of full house jacketed loads after shooting lead. It helps remove a lot of it. Chore Boy wrapped around a bronze brush gets the rest of it.

Back on my younger days I dabbled in the lost art of quick-draw. I had a reverse cant Kirkpatrick rig and a heavy old .357 blackhawk. I shot so much that I decided I needed to get into reloading. I self taught myself to cast and did a little reading and started rolling my own hot .357s with red dot powder.
One day I was shooting for accuracy and couldn't hit paper. I had unwittingly turned my blackhawk into a smoothbore.

Lots of Hoppes bore cleaner and a bronze brush later it was all clean.
Harder lead...milder loads...all is well.
My Kirkpatrick might fit my thigh now. Apparently I have grown....wider.

Deadeyejedi said:

500 lead wad cutters

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Give bullets a coating of Lee Liquid Alox as added insurance against lead fouling. Less cleaning.

I'd suggest you measure the gun and bullets first. Measure/slug the cylinder throats. Slug the barrel (to make sure the throats are larger in diameter than the groove diameter). Best starting point is to size/purchase bullets the same diameter as the cylinder throats. Using this method I usually get just a slight or no leading. Normal cleaning is usually good (chore boy works quite well). Warning; if you run across the "formula" of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, don't use it on your guns. I have a nice Dan Wesson 44 Mag. that I shot some undersized bullets through and had moderate leading, but it was more difficult to remove than "normal". I swabbed the barrel with the "formula" and set it aside. Got distracted and the solution sat for several hours. My DW now has a pitted barrel...

Barry loyd said:

I shoot a cylinder or two of full house jacketed loads after shooting lead. It helps remove a lot of it. Chore Boy wrapped around a bronze brush gets the rest of it.

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I do this as well, kind of like a self cleaning oven...

Looks like swaged bullets. Too soft for magnum loads. Should work fine for specials.

Armored farmer said:

My Kirkpatrick might fit my thigh now. Apparently I have grown....wider.

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Funny how gear from a few years ago can hit our ego so hard.

In today’s tumultuous and uncertain financial economy, I have resorted to investing in my self, and according to my bathroom scale, my stock is RISING!!!

Probably dead soft. If I were loading them I'd keep the velocity on the low side and consider adding a coat of liquid alox to help.

For the OP: there is lead bullet data out there.

As was pointed out above, those are soft lead swaged Hornady bullets, not meant for Magnum velocities. Decent plinkers if loaded to 44special speeds, however. Load data is out there.

According to Hornady 10th, they no longer produce the #1110, but here’s the 44mag page for the 240grn lead bullets:

Add 10% to 44 special loads when loaded in 44mag cases, and you’ll achieve similar pressure as the 44special.

I’m out to supper, I can share the 44spcl data page for these when I get back home (assuming they recommend the 240 for 44Spcl too).

If you have leading a COPPER Chore Boy is your best friend.
But be careful some other brands are copper coated steel.
You DON'T want steel in your barrel.

What I do is clean with Hoppes No 9.

Then if there's still leading, I take a long strand from the Chore Boy pad.
Wrap it around a mop or bronze brush & scrub. Usually only takes
10 strokes, wipe the barrel with a cleaning pad.
Re-do as needed.

If you have severe leading then you need to visit bullet fit in the barrel, or bullet composition.

Hope this helps

Deadeyejedi said:

I was hoping to use the rest of this hs6 and these lead bullets since ive had it for ever.

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Hornady states 9.0grn HS6 as the max under their swaged lead bullets in 44 special. Again, adding 10% to use in 44mag cases will yield similar pressures as this 44spcl data. Book data for 44mag will very rarely show any low pressure loads, such as upscaled 44special-ish data, but the practice is common for those folks (like myself) who prefer to only shoot magnum length cases. But here’s the 44spcl data, including HS6.

You have 44 Mag pistol, 44 Mag cases.
Use the 44 Mag data -- lowest load

HS6 is too slow for these purposes.
Invest in a lb of Titegroup, and follow the 800fps guidelines in POST #15

Loaded/shot correctly, there will be zero leading.
Just run solvent/drypatch as normal

As others have said; i would coat them in alox, load them light and have some fun. If leading results drag some 100% copper strands (copper chore boy or lathe shavings or even brass trimmings if you trim brass and had some long knarly strands) through the bore until clean. I just tie a piece of paracord around a bundle of chore boy and drag it through, dont bother with special cleaning tools or methods. If youre feeling fancy squirt whatever whizz bang oil you got laying around on to the copper shavings and go shoot some more. Everything will be fine.

MEHavey said:

You have 44 Mag pistol, 44 Mag cases.
Use the 44 Mag data -- lowest load

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I agree. My choice is .240 grain LCSWC with 6.5 grains of Universal for light loads at 860fps using a 5.5” barrel Ruger SBH.

My favorite cartridge is the 44 Magnum. I started reloading it in '88 and have reloaded it with everything from 123 gr. balls over a dusting of Bullseye to 310 gr ingots over heavy loads of 2400 (my T-Rex Killer loads are a 265 gr, RNFP over max loads of WC820). Many times I have used a 44 Special load in Magnum brass right out of the 44 Special section of my manual and even with starting loads have never stuck a bullet in a barrel (longest bbl is 20"). No formula needed and I know the listed velocity for Special loads in Special brass will be higher then Special loads in Magnum brass. No big deal...