Interarms Mark X - 458 Win Mag

Status
Not open for further replies.

Johnm1

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
1,880
Location
Mesa, AZ
Now, I have no reason to own a 458 Win Mag as I live in Arizona and the biggest thing I can hunt is an Elk. I have no plans to go to Africa or Alaska and this has no practical use. So why did I buy it? She said $299 and the next thing I know I'm filling out the 4473.

But, it has a crack in the tang area. What would be a minor annoyance in a 30-06 could turn into a deadly projectile in a 458 Win Mag. So, what to do? I like the stock as far as style and being original to the gun. I don't really care for the replacements that are on the market. Mostly synthetic that I don't care for and the wood ones that are available are pretty plain and don't have the recoil bolts installed so they would take some work. Now, I have repaired some stocks in the past and had great results in both function and finish. But this one has some potential to be more than a broken stock if I get it wrong. Here is the overall rifle. It had some surface rust and the crack in the stock but otherwise was ready to shoot.

458 10.JPG

And here is the crack at the tang. Obviously someone has tried to make repairs:

458 11.JPG

And someone has added some pins:

458 12.JPG

I can live with the pins. They are what they are. I can cosmetically make the crack and the repairs at the tang disappear. I suspect with some guidance I can reinforce the crack with Acraglass or one of the Devcon products. But to give you a total picture I have to show you the bedding job that was done on this rifle. I assume by Interarms. Research of the rifle indicated that the bedding job Interarms did on these rifles was not the best.

458 16.JPG

I believe 'Drunken Monkeys' might apply here. That being said, the bedding does do its job. So for $299 I can live with it if it doesn't have to come out for the crack repair. Just keep that in mind.

I bought a box of factory 510 grain full house loads at a gun show with the sole purpose to shoot the gun and see if the stock breaks. I made sure the action screws were as tight as possible and I anchored my lead sled to the ground with 6" long spike nails and strapped the rifle in the lead sled. The rifle could not move when fired. Using a long string, I fired 6 rounds of 510 grain loads through the rifle and monitored the crack at the tang and measured no change after firing. I then fired the rifle 10 more times from the shoulder and again, the crack did not change. My assumption is that the rifle was fired with the action screws loose and that caused the crack. The videos are actually quite funny to watch.

My hopes and desires is that the crack can be filled with an epoxy and I can dress up the surface and call it good. I have a lot of pictures, and can take more if needed. @GunnyUSMC if you are listening I'd really like to hear your opinion. You helped me on a Steyr M95 Long Rifle years ago and I really trust your opinion.
 
Last edited:
I'm hoping so. When I fired it in the sled I was hoping it would break. Its actually easier for me to envision the repair when I have two pieces. As it is the crack seems very stable.
 
There are numerous stocks that can be used as replacements FWIW. Walnut, laminated, and polymer. Remington 798, Zastava M70 MK, general commercial FN Mauser, etc. Some are brand new options (Boyd's), some are preowned and pop up on eBay and other auction sites off & on. If it comes to that.
 
Does this action have the auxiliary lug on the barrel? If so, be sure the screws are installed tight with loctite and that both lugs are bedded securely and equally to the stock.
 
By auxiliary lug on the barrel do you mean the lug to the left in this picture?

IMG_0981.JPG

If so, it is about the only thing that is bedded neatly on this rifle.
 
The wood behind the tang is what cracked the wrist, get the wood out from behind it. I've had my eye out for these for a build I've wanted to do but there over $500 around here.
 
I suspect that once the crack appeared someone attempted a fix. There doesn't appear to be any excess wood behind the tang anymore. With the action screws loose I can't feel any forward/backward movement in action. Is there a test to verify that the bedding is making good contact?

As far as neat goes, the lugs are bed 'neater' than the rear of the action but not really neat.

IMG_0985.JPG
 
By auxiliary lug on the barrel do you mean the lug to the left in this picture?

If so, it is about the only thing that is bedded neatly on this rifle.
That's the one. The main (rear) lug should also be bedded. The two lugs should be the only things that are subjected to rearward force when the gun recoils. As has been noted, the wood around the rear tang should be relieved slightly so it is NOT subjected to rearward force.
 
Got it.

Like I said, with the action screws loose I cannot feel any forward/backward movement in the action. But how can I tell if there is full contact with the bedding at least in the areas of the lugs?
 
The first thing to do is to address the problem that caused the crack. There are two reasons that could have caused the damage. 1 is that the action screws were loose while firing and 2 would be that when it was bedded, the rear screw was to far to the rear and resting on the stock.
Put the front action screw in sung and see if the rear screw will go in easy without touching the back of the hole.
If it’s rubbing you will need to make adjustments to the bedding.

The repair to the wrist is pretty straight forward and easy.
You will need to drill into the crack, from the tang, down into the wrist. The angel will depend on the stock, but this pic will give you some giddiness.
I like to use a 3/8 wood bit. 8DA29F9F-2A40-485A-8F3B-05026EBF27B5.jpeg


When you drill the hole, make sure that you clamp the crack closed so that wood chips do not get in the crack.

A0E975F1-3762-4629-9852-38CE8DC4CABA.jpeg


Next, use modeling clay to fill the rear action screw hole. This will keep the Acraglas out of the hole.
Using a dowel a little smaller then the hole, wrap some fiberglass cloth around the dowel and secure it with some fiberglass thread. fill the hole with resin, flex the crack to get in. Add a little more resin and insert the dowel and clamp the crack tight.
I like to use masking tape across the tang area to keep the resin in place and stand the stock up while it cures.
Once it has cured use a dremel tool with a high speed mill bit to cut the area back to shape.
EE015FD9-B952-421C-9548-586BBCF18132.jpeg

Once you have the top dressed up, use a drill bit the size of the rear action screw hole to remove the clay from the hole. I do this by hand. Just turn the bit into the hole from the bottom and the clay will come out.
Then you can use your drill and the hole as a guide to drill out the top of the hole.

Sorry I don’t have more pics, I lost a bunch of them.
 
Thank you Gunny,

That is pretty straight forward and easy to follow. I'll investigate after I get home from work tonight. I suspect that the drilled hole/dowel is intended to catch the bottom of the crack in the tang. Is that correct?

It appears that there have been at least one attempt to repair this stock. My only concern is if that previous repair will allow me to clamp the crack closed for this repair. I'll only know that when I actually start the repair.

With any luck, I'll get drawn for Elk this year and actually have a reason to load for this rifle. Still overkill, but it is a close as I can come to an actual use for a .458 Win Mag in Arizona.
 
Yes, you want to drill just past the end of the crack.
If you are unable to get the crack to close completely, the resin will fill it in. To help hide the repairs is the crack does not close all the way, use sanding dust. Make some sanding dust that will be the same color of the stock when the dust is wet. When you make the repairs pat the dust into the cracks to mix with the resin.
 
Thanks Gunny,

I think I can get it from here. It may take a while, but I'll report back when the repair is complete. Work is just about at a frenzied pace right now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top