hi point 995TS

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Very sensible. But to ease one direction and then come back is odd. And as far as an angled sight goes, that would make sense but for the discrepancy I was seeing, the sight would have to be mounted at least 6” off of the gun to the side for it to do the things it was doing. It was fairly consistent though, and I carried that rifle deer hunting a couple times. Shot a raccoon with it that acted as if it may have been sick, and at 40 yards it hit the raccoon where I wanted it to. I like the thought of the gun, but the one I had was doing something odd it’s like it was kicking the bullet around slightly causing an off center rotation and wierd aerodynamics or something.

Well, there were scopes that were deliberately mounted off-axis like the sniper versions of the M1 Garand. They had to be since the magazine loaded with en bloc clips directly from the top. The guys who used these rifles had two options. Either leave the scope axis parallel to the bore axis, in which case there would be a consistent windage error to the left of point of aim which could be compensated for by holding off to the right. But some chose to zero the scope for POI=POA at some range such as 200 yards. That meant that the rifle shot to the left of POA at shorter ranges such as 100 yards, and to the right of POA at longer ranges like 300 yards.

It doesn't take much sight axis misalignment to produce the result you described, zeroed at 50 yards, off 1" left at 25 yards and 6" right at 100 yards. To hit 6" right at 100 yards requires a little less than 6 minutes of angle misalignment of the bore. That is only one tenth of one degree of misalignment, something that might easily go unnoticed. That same misalignment would result in a windage error of a little less than 1 1/2" at 25 yards. And if your sights were set to hit POI=POA at 50 yards, the windage error from the same misalignment would be to one side at ranges less than the zero, and the other side at ranges greater than the zero.
 
I think the HP is a reasonable choice...until I saw that stupid pistol grip fin on the CA version. That totally kills it for me. I would take the conventional stock of the Ruger over that bastardized abomination even it I had to ave a few more pennies. Saving money is a false economy if the gun is difficult to even hold securely.
 
I think the HP is a reasonable choice...until I saw that stupid pistol grip fin on the CA version. That totally kills it for me. I would take the conventional stock of the Ruger over that bastardized abomination even it I had to ave a few more pennies. Saving money is a false economy if the gun is difficult to even hold securely.

agreed
 
I bought a 995TS for the same reasons as the OP
The 1st time out/1st shots, I found the "sliding" stock via the spring loaded butt plate vary annoying, pinched my cheek, and gimmicky.
The low comb height left my head floating in space when the sights were aligned.

I went to work mod'ing the butt to not compress and added a strap-on comb.
I am thinking of extending that butt plate claptrap contraption for more reach too.
I took both sights off and added a red dot.

All that has turned the Hi Point into a functioning range toy, but the awkward controls mention above slow down reloads enough to have me loose most all dueling tree matches against other comparable guns.
:scrutiny:
 
I think the HP is a reasonable choice...until I saw that stupid pistol grip fin on the CA version. That totally kills it for me. I would take the conventional stock of the Ruger over that bastardized abomination even it I had to ave a few more pennies. Saving money is a false economy if the gun is difficult to even hold securely.
For what it is worth, I paid almost exactly $200 more for my Ruger PCC 9 than I did my Hi-Point 995TS. In my opinion, the price difference was very much worth the notable difference in overall quality and, for me, the difference in reliability.

If you can't afford the price difference and are just looking at a carbine to use for plinking and a range toy, the Hi-Point will do. But I think it would put you at a significant disadvantage even for something as benign as steel challenge matches. And that would be especially true for the CA-compliant model.
 
The more I read the comments and think about it the more I'm contemplating building an AR in 9mm. For my intended use I was attracted to the price. No matter how much I spend its a waste if I don't like it. At least if I don't like the AR the chances are good I can change a part here or there to make it work for me.
 
The more I read the comments and think about it the more I'm contemplating building an AR in 9mm. For my intended use I was attracted to the price. No matter how much I spend its a waste if I don't like it. At least if I don't like the AR the chances are good I can change a part here or there to make it work for me.

Do you already have an AR15? If so you can just buy the endo mags and just get a 9mm upper and heavy buffer.

https://www.meanarms.com/products/detail/endomag-9mm
 
Do you already have an AR15? If so you can just buy the endo mags and just get a 9mm upper and heavy buffer.

That was my original plan. I have heard good things about the Endo mag parts.

Probably easier to find a brass catcher for the AR as well since the majority of this idea has been reloading.
 
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