Why not just the pawls as Hornady designed them with a allen head wrench as in the manual or video.??????????
Hornady AP Newbie questions...
- Thread starter BigGee
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Why not just the pawls as Hornady designed them with a allen head wrench as in the manual or video.??????????
Master Blaster
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If you are loading lots of pistol rounds good luck with Hornady measure and ptx. I was never able to get mine to reliably bell .45 acp and reliably accurately drop the powder with either insert.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
What powder?
I have had good results with my Hornady measure.
My lockout die will catch .2 over or under and I have loaded 10k+ 9mm with no issues. (mostly WSF, but also CFE-P, Sport PIstol, AA#2, HP38, BE86, W244 and a few more)
No problems with .45 either.
Assuming you meant "adjust"...the Bragging Rights tools provide a qualitative measurement to confirm correct alignment.
I thought my pawls were adjusted pretty accurately, because it worked smoothly most of the time...there was only an occasional bobble when doing long runs. When I'd change calibers, sometimes it required some adjustment...which I accepted as normal.
I tried the tools, when they were on sale (in combination with the priming alignment tools), partly out of curiosity. It was surprising to find out how far out of optimal adjustment my pawls were...the right, more than the left one...when using the tools. I wasn't really convinced until I started loading another batch of ammo and immediately saw/felt how much smoother the press was running. My current primer alignment was almost dead on, but having confirmation was nice also.
Reeferman
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I looked at those and though I believe they would work fine they are just too expensive for me to get up here in Canada. My LNL runs pretty good the primer system does not ever mess up unless some powder gets in the end of the shuttle slid or I mess something up.
Well, day 2 was a lot better.
A big shout out to NMexJim for offering to go above and beyond helping me get set up.
I reset the pawls from scratch and the indexing of the shellplate seems good. The powder hopper was cracked when I looked at it closely. i wrangled it off and bandsawed the bottom straight. A quick taper sanded onto the bottom and I was all set.
I deburred the priming components and all seems to work well, except for some high primers. That might be me getting the feel of the press, if not I'll look into shimming the shellplate.
Thanks everyone for your help !
I'll be getting a new bin bracket from Inline Fabrication soon. The Dramworx powder hopper looks good - can't say I'm really sold on the way the original is attached.
Due to the current situation, I'm almost in need of a loan to buy a second shellplate !
A big shout out to NMexJim for offering to go above and beyond helping me get set up.
I reset the pawls from scratch and the indexing of the shellplate seems good. The powder hopper was cracked when I looked at it closely. i wrangled it off and bandsawed the bottom straight. A quick taper sanded onto the bottom and I was all set.
I deburred the priming components and all seems to work well, except for some high primers. That might be me getting the feel of the press, if not I'll look into shimming the shellplate.
Thanks everyone for your help !
I'll be getting a new bin bracket from Inline Fabrication soon. The Dramworx powder hopper looks good - can't say I'm really sold on the way the original is attached.
Due to the current situation, I'm almost in need of a loan to buy a second shellplate !
Just looked at the Dramworx powder hopper again... https://dramworx.com/products/hornady/
I'm seeing what looks like a silver band at the bottom of the pyrex. Does anyone have one of these ? I was wondering how the hopper is retained.
I'm seeing what looks like a silver band at the bottom of the pyrex. Does anyone have one of these ? I was wondering how the hopper is retained.
That "silver band" is the base of the hopper...there is also a baffle attached to it.
Unlike the factory powder hopper which is plastic, the Dram Worx hopper is Pyrex. The bottom of the hopper is glued into a threaded metal base. The base is threaded into the body of your powder measure. Their hoppers don't shrink, melt, or wear down like the factory one will. It won't loosen and tip off the powder measure body when it is full of powder.
I painted the base of my hopper to match the powder measure...not in texture, but in color
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