38s w Black powder.

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Bcwitt

Bcwitt

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Has anyone on here done this? I'm contemplating doing so, but I've never loaded metallics w black powder. Any insight is keenly appreciated. Thanks for the read.
 
I have, and may do it again. 32 S&W is so weak that it’s laughable as anything more than a curiosity, but I bought the revolver and have it so I may load another handful to have around. The gun is so small and awkward I have contemplated selling it or trading it for another antique 38s&w.
 
Fill the case with enough black powder that the charge is slightly compressed when the bullet is seated. No air gap. Then you can capture how much your charge weighs for that powder, be it Goex, Olde E, Swiss in FFFG, FFg what have you.

That will get you a load to make noise and smoke with. After cleaning up that mess, if you want to continue down the black powder cartridge road, you'll want to explore black powder specific bullet lubes as the next step.

Good luck
 
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Yes, I use Goex Red Label FFFg and Goex Olde Eynsford FFFg for BP cartridge loads. My method is pretty simple: Goex publishes a chart for loading using their powders (see attached).

I use Lee powder dippers to get close to the published charge weight (by volume):
index.php

Place an unlubed fabric wad over the powder - both to take up space and apply a slight, even compression to the load - and seat the bullet to the crimp groove. Yes, it is probably best to lube your bullets with a grease meant for black powder but, I use Hunter's Supply bullets which are lubed with a wax that works for both BP and smokeless. That's how they advertise them and it actually works. I don't have problems with binding.

Using dippers and wads works for me but there is some debate on the forums about whether using volume to get the initial measure of powder is correct or if the best shooters/loaders always use strictly mass, and NEVER use volume, to measure powder. For me, using dippers (volumetric measures) to get close and either trickle up to an exact charge (which is also moving powder by volume, BTW) or get to the right case fill and then use a thicker/thinner wad to take up space and leave NO air gap works pretty darned well. I'm not shooting 1000 yard matches with a 3" .38S&W top break. o_O

As long as you have a good load for your revolver, how you get there is kind of not important.
 

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  • Goex Cartridge-Pistol Load Chart.pdf
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Reloading with black powder is easy. Just make sure the bullet has the correct lube. Thoroughly cleaning the gun afterwards is the biggest difference.
 
swg1 said:
Fill the case with enough black powder that the charge is slightly compressed when the bullet is seated. No air gap. Then you can capture how much your charge weighs for that powder, be it Goex, Olde E, Swiss in FFFG, FFg what have you.

That will get you a load to make noise and smoke with. After cleaning up that mess, if you want to continue down the black powder cartridge road, you'll want to explore black powder specific bullet lubes as the next step.

Good luck
Click to expand...

^^^^^^

Fill up the case with 3 fffg of black powder or one of its substitutes so that seating the bullet gives you 1/10” or so of compression. Used soft lead bullets (6-10 BHN: pure lead to 1:20 alloy) sized to .002” over groove diameter. You want a soft black powder lube (make your own with beeswax/Crisco/olive or similar oil at 40/40/20 or 45/45/10 if it’s jolly hot). I like a card wad under the bullet base, but that’s not necessary.

Clean up couldn’t be easier. Hot water with some dish soap. Dry it and spritz with a little Ballistol.
 
To say that cleaning a firearm after shooting black powder through it is easier than normal cleaning is misleading at best.
 
reddog81 said:
To say that cleaning a firearm after shooting black powder through it is easier than normal cleaning is misleading at best.
Click to expand...
It is if you do it right. You do you and we're all good with that but, personally, I do a little more for my revolvers than just run a patch of CLP down the bore, regardless of the powder I'm using. I like to make sure the forcing cone is clean and free of debris, I clean and wipe down the cylinder faces, at least wipe of the breech face and clean under the extractor... My revolvers get a little more love then, "...bore's wiped, we're done..." :what:

Talk about a wam-bam-thank-you-ma'am! :(
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
I like to make sure the forcing cone is clean and free of debris, I clean and wipe down the cylinder faces, at least wipe of the breech face and clean under the extractor.
Click to expand...

You don't do any of that after shooting black powder through a gun?

Using hot water to clean a gun can lead to a whole host of problems if not dried correctly. Pretty much every step cleaning of cleaning a gun after shooting black powder through it is more involved than a normal cleaning routine. Sure the products used to clean are more readily available, but that doesn't mean it's quicker or easier.
 
reddog81 said:
To say that cleaning a firearm after shooting black powder through it is easier than normal cleaning is misleading at best.
Click to expand...

And yet, again, that’s not what I wrote. :D

Perhaps you are unfamiliar with cleaning a black powder pistol and are relying on internet lore. Using hot water and a little dish soap leads to zero problems. And drying correctly is in no way difficult, a process aided by spritzing with Ballistol.

Suggesting that black powder clean up is more complicated or difficult than it is in actuality is however misleading, at best. :p
 
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reddog81 said:
You don't do any of that after shooting black powder through a gun?

Using hot water to clean a gun can lead to a whole host of problems if not dried correctly. Pretty much every step cleaning of cleaning a gun after shooting black powder through it is more involved than a normal cleaning routine. Sure the products used to clean are more readily available, but that doesn't mean it's quicker or easier.
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Seriously? I said, "I do a little more for my revolvers," Plural. Meaning ALL of them.

You are telling the OP when using smokeless powder, not to wipe down the forcing cone, not to clean under the ejector star, not to clean the breech face, not to clean the muzzle, not to clean the top strap... just run some CLP down the bore and you're done. Is that really good advice? I don't think so. But you do you. I'm fine with that. I guess you're not fine with what anybody else does. Too bad, such a shame.

My advice to anyone involved in shooting revolvers is, clean those areas and clean them well, "regardless of the powder [you're] using." Hot, soapy water for the bore and cylinders, a mop, not a bucket unless that is just your style, Ballistol or sewing machine oil after to preserve the finish. Simple. I don't think anyone is suggesting running ANY gun through a washing machine or dishwasher... or taking a bath with it, though I do know folks who take a shower with their black powder hunting rifles after a day in the swamps. I don't but some do.
 
It's not difficult but every aspect of cleaning after using black powder is more involved and more critical to do correctly and needs to be done in a timely manner. I'm not saying it's difficult, but it is certainly not easier as suggested above.

Make a video of all the steps necessary to do after shooting a black powder revolver and I'll make a video of all the steps necessary after shooting smokeless powder and we'll see which one is easier.
 
DocRock said:
And yet, again, that’s not what I wrote. :D

Perhaps you are unfamiliar with cleaning a black powder pistol and are relying on internet lore. Using hot water and a little dish soap leads to zero problems. And drying correctly is in no way difficult, a process aided by spritzing with Ballistol.

Suggesting that black powder clean up is more complicated or difficult than it is in actuality is however misleading, at best. :p
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This reminds me of all the hysteria surrounding [dun-dunt-duuuuh - dramatic music inserted here;)] "corrosive primers....imers....mers...ssss"! :what:

Is cleaning a black powder rifle or revolver messier than cleaning smokeless rifles or revolvers? Not if you do it right. Is it harder? Nope. Is it more complicated? Nope, and if we're talking cartridge ammo, it's pretty much the same. Again, do it right and you can clean an 1860 Colt, wash your hands, and go out to dinner with the family.
 
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I load .38 Special, .44-40 and 12 gauge cartridges for “Frontier Cartridge” category in cowboy action shooting. SASS rules require me to use black powder or a black powder substitute. Real black powder works best with a “black powder compatible” (that is, relatively soft) lube on the bullet. I’ve not made that leap so I use “subs” that play well with the paraffin type lube found on most commercial cast bullets. Polycoated bullets are fine, too.

I don’t use Pyrodex. I prefer APP (American Pioneer Powder) which has also been sold as Alliant Black MZ and is now sold by Shooters World as “Multipurpose Black”. It leaves a grey residue that cleans up with tap water. The cases get grungy so I wet tumble them after a match.

APP recommends that the powder not be compressed. I fill the case to the base of the seated bullet. I like a 158 grain bullet with it.

I get plenty of smoke but no flame. For flame use real BP.

For a lighter recoil in the pistols some folks use .38 Colt cases which are shorter than .38 Special cases. I have a large supply of .38 Special cases so that’s what I use.
 
I shoot cap and ball as well as smokeless revolvers. I love shooting black powder, but let's be honest: cleaning up after it is significantly more work. It isn't impossible or an all day affair, but anyone fooling with black powder for the first time should be aware that cleanup is more work. After you do it for the first time you will know whether you think it is worth the effort. For me it means that I tend to reserve black powder for when I have several hours to spend shooting, loading and cleaning.
 
brewer12345 said:
I shoot cap and ball as well as smokeless revolvers. I love shooting black powder, but let's be honest: cleaning up after it is significantly more work. It isn't impossible or an all day affair, but anyone fooling with black powder for the first time should be aware that cleanup is more work. After you do it for the first time you will know whether you think it is worth the effort. For me it means that I tend to reserve black powder for when I have several hours to spend shooting, loading and cleaning.
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The OP was asking about metallic cartridges, not cap-n-ball. :)

An important thing to remember for me since I use a dry media tumbler is to drop my BP brass in soapy water right away. I typically forget and have to tumble polish it twice after a soap bath to get it shiny again.
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
The OP was asking about metallic cartridges, not cap-n-ball. :)

An important thing to remember for me since I use a dry media tumbler is to drop my BP brass in soapy water right away. I typically forget and have to tumble polish it twice after a soap bath to get it shiny again.
Click to expand...

I am sure the black powder from a cratridge gets into enough nooks and crannies to require very thorough cleaning.
 
brewer12345 said:
Glad to hear it, actually. Have been reluctant to try bp cartridge due to the mess. If it isn't that bad maybe I will try.
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With a cartridge, it is less laborious than a cap-n-ball revolver. Just keep an eye on it for the following couple of days, in case you missed a spot. And as others have mentioned, you have to clean your brass.

Along with revolvers, rifles and BP cartridge, it's been no issue with single shots and my 71/84 repeater. I've not cleaned a Winchester lever yet after using BP so I can't speak to that.
 
swg1 said:
With a cartridge, it is less laborious than a cap-n-ball revolver. Just keep an eye on it for the following couple of days, in case you missed a spot. And as others have mentioned, you have to clean your brass.

Along with revolvers, rifles and BP cartridge, it's been no issue with single shots and my 71/84 repeater. I've not cleaned a Winchester lever yet after using BP so I can't speak to that.
Click to expand...

I think I have enough smokeless pistol powder that the only reason to stuff a bunch of black in a 38 case is for shiggles. Not sure I willl bother as I have enough fun shooting the 1858s with cap and ball. Still interesting to learn about it.
 
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