Lubricating a j frame without removing side plate

I’ve tried the spray with brake cleaner without the plate off method and it did an awful job. I don’t take my plates off very often but if you want to be sure the inside is properly cleaned and lubed that’s the only way to do it. Brownells sells a 4 bit set and handle designed for Smith revolvers. I’d pick one up.

SteadyD said:

What is your oil of choice for this process?

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I use Break Free CLP for just about everything thing (revolvers and otherwise). A little generic high-pressure bearing grease on the star.

Walkalong said:

A great way to damage screws and your guns value.

Spray or drip a lightweight, quality lube in the holes, dry fire, wipe excess, be happy

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???
It's not rocket science.
Only if you damage them and do not know how to use the correct size driver. Guess it is like super special reloading dies or calipers.
The biggest mistake people make is not guiding the driver with a finger and having it slip and damage the screw or the frame
J frames. K frame. L frame, N frames

SW used to include one in the box. Of course there are collector items and nuances about what year they were made.

Of course you can remove side plate screws with a common screwdriver - but the fact that you can do something does not make that something a good idea.

If you bung up a screw slot or mar the finish of a firearm it is really hard to correct. Why increase the chances of that happening? What's the up side of that?
If a person cares enough about a gun to want to remove a side plate for maintenance , he/she should care enough to use proper screwdrivers.

Waveski said:

Of course you can remove side plate screws with a common screwdriver - but the fact that you can do something does not make that something a good idea.

If you bung up a screw slot or mar the finish of a firearm it is really hard to correct. Why increase the chances of that happening? What's the up side of that?
If a person cares enough about a gun to want to remove a side plate for maintenance , he/she should care enough to use proper screwdrivers.

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I never said that it was the correct way or that having dedicated "gunsmith" drivers was not a good idea/ I said that it can be done. I have a gazillion screwdrivers and some of those "regular" ones will work just fine.

Like not working on a car unless you have Snap On or Matco tools?

Here, the OP can spend $14 and have a gunsmith tool set or does he need Brownells

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007360766?pid=297593

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-tip-bit-sets/s-w-revolver-combo-prod406.aspx

Rule3 said:

Like not working on a car unless you have Snap On or Matco tools?

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No , more like using a pliers instead of a socket wrench , with the result of wrecking a fastener head.

Waveski said:

No , more like using a pliers instead of a socket wrench , with the result of wrecking a fastener head.

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Not quite the same analogy.

It is more like folks saying they need a rebound spring tool to replace a rebound spring when all that is needed (and easier) is to use a small flat head non SW screwdriver!

Lets go back to the actual OP question.
Why does he feel the need to lubricate the revolver? SW revolvers require very little to a scant few drops of oil.
Is the gun old? Has it been purchased used, been shot a lot? If any of those it should be opened up and cleaned out (spray cleaner is fine)

If that is the case the OP should invest in a few special drivers as I mentioned above.

If not, then it is just blindly putting some lube down in the gun for no real reason.

I have disassembled MANY SW revolvers both my own and for others to clean and check, replaced springs etc.

Thank goodness Rugers due not require specialized screwdrivers

Not using the right tool for the job will work, but it’s a real shame when it doesn’t.

Back to the OP - give S&W a call and ask what they recommend. They’re the ones that warranty their guns. They’re the ones that will tell you what they recommend. Just as they did when I called. Simple!

Smith & Wesson Customer Service
(800) 331-0852

George P said:

A simple hollow ground screwdriver is far from some "high end" screw driver and with the S&W, you only need that one size for all of them

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You can even make them yourself with a little patience and a good grinder.

SteadyD said:

What oil are you using?

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Valvoline 5w30 full synthetic in a needle applicator

entropy said:

You can even make them yourself with a little patience and a good grinder.

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I do not possess that skill level with a grinder.............

Would flushing it out with Remington Action Cleaner and then a light spray of Ballistol sound like a good approach?

A very long time ago I was hanging out with the Dallas Police Armorer. The vast majority of DPD carried revolvers. Issue was a 4” model 64.

All guns that came in for annual inspection. All new guns. Clint opened them up, cleaned all the crap out. On new guns, cleaned out the metal shavings, made sure the timing was good etc.

After they were clean and bone dry, he hosed them out with silicone spray and then dried them with compressed air.
Leaving a film of silicone.

Based on his experience, a bone dry Revolver was infinitely more reliable than a “well lubed” revolver. After a year of being carried “wet” with oil, the insides were full of sludge.

A light coat of silicone helped keep things lubed, yet not hold duty, debris, spilled coffee, moisture from rain.

Get a .50 cal ammo can. Half kerosene, half WD-40, one cup of Marvel Mystery Oil. Soak gun. Work action. Slosh it around.

Drip dry and dry hen blow everything out with compressed air.

All the junks out. Everything has a very light film of oil. Done.

SteadyD said:

This gun hasn’t been made in twenty years. I will not take the chance of damaging it as I doubt they have spare parts anymore, and it just feels like it needs a touch of oil because I suspect it is very dry in there. The cylinder wasn’t spinning smoothly because it was dry. I used a needle dropper of hoppes on it and now it spins perfectly. I suspect the various moving parts in the action could use a similar lubricating.

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S&W fixed my 1980 66-2 a few months ago; parts are around for J frames

Rule3 said:

Not quite the same analogy.

It is more like folks saying they need a rebound spring tool to replace a rebound spring when all that is needed (and easier) is to use a small flat head non SW screwdriver!

Lets go back to the actual OP question.
Why does he feel the need to lubricate the revolver? SW revolvers require very little to a scant few drops of oil.
Is the gun old? Has it been purchased used, been shot a lot? If any of those it should be opened up and cleaned out (spray cleaner is fine)

If that is the case the OP should invest in a few special drivers as I mentioned above.

If not, then it is just blindly putting some lube down in the gun for no real reason.

I have disassembled MANY SW revolvers both my own and for others to clean and check, replaced springs etc.

Thank goodness Rugers due not require specialized screwdrivers

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In my experience, the better analogy would be using Allen wrenches to remove Torx screws.

I've damaged screw heads with un-modified, but "properly sized" craftsman screwdrivers.

I've also modified screwdrivers with grinders and files to fit screw heads properly, with great success.

One thing is for sure, it was worth my money to get an inexpensive gun screwdriver set with replaceable bits.

I hate following behind other people's work that have damaged screw heads, and now I have to figure out how to get that screw out. Adds money and time on a repair job at work. Which the boss likes the money, but frustrates me greatly.

243winxb said:

Drop in a bucket of lube of your choice. Let drain on paper towel. Wipe, all done.

At a S&W days event, the factory rep will clean you Smith for free. They remove the grips and put in a fluid that looks like transmission oil.

Back in the day of all steel guns.

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Yup. I like kerosene but lots of folks swear by ATF. Drop it in, swish it around, drain, wipe, done. Kero won't bother the wood none, either but I still take it off and hit it with Ballistol while the metal's draining.