singer sewing machine oil

Think it used to be whale oil years ago

That was maybe fourscore and seven years ago.

My Mother would grudgingly spare me some Singer sewing machine oil for my .22.

It is mineral oil based. Should work fine on guns as a general purpose lube. I don’t know about rust prevention if in a high humid area.

Its viscosity is a little low, if you apply it too heavily it will migrate to places you might not want it.

It won't harm a thing.

It might run out of where you want it a bit faster than a purpose-designed oil. On the other hand it won't drain the money from your wallet as fast as a lot of the snake oil out there.

I used that oil and 3 in 1 oil for ages on everything from bicycle chains to fishing reels to guns. I can’t recall anything other than it’s a bit thin… which means you may need an extra drop or two once in a while if you’re shooting a lot.

Stay safe.

Mom's Kenmore came with a can of 3-in-one oil & it's all I have ever used on it. It's about 60 years old now & still works fine.

I use motor oil as a rust preventative on exterior metal, and white lithium grease on moving parts.

It'll work fine. Just might need to oil more often, like some have said.
Back when I had machining tools, I used to use the way oil designed for lathes and mills. It was designed not to run as much. Higher surface tension or something, I guess. A friend had one gun that didn't work well with light loads with it, but it was picky anyway. My stuff worked fine.
Now I just use synthetic motor oil on everything but my AR. That gets CLP just because I haven't tested yet.

thunderbyrd said:

are there any differences in machine oils you can use on guns? i have a bottle of singer machine oil i have been using, i can't imagine it has any counter productive or destructive qualities.

if there are any real differences in oils, i would like to know it.

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In my younger days I worked on a rock crusher, the bearings kept burning out, so the owner started using Lubraplate Grease, never lost another bearing, so I use LP#105, useing it ñow for 71 years with outstanding results, SUB-ZERO -84 temps has no bad effects on my "bangers"!! My FUBAR for 58 Years not 71 years, started working on rock crusher at age 18, quit working there when a good friends raincoat got caught on an open shaft, tore him to prices, Everytime I pass by there I get sick to my stomach, cherish good friends, you never know.

It'll work just fine, Also Wahl electric clipper oil,
Remember, there are thousands of very old firearms in excellent condition out there that never saw anything besides 3 in 1 oil.

Sewing machine oil was designed to avoid gumming up close tolerance fine machinery, will work fine to keep moving parts lubricated.

As mentioned previously, it used to be made with with sperm whale oil, same as early automatic trans. fluid, for the same reasons.

I bet they used it on these.

3 in 1 also makes good drilube

FWIW, which may be... well I'll leave that to you... I've been using this stuff on everything in all weathers, for years, and been very happy (see avatar, my happy face):

https://www.partsips.com/zoom-spout-turbine-oil-4-oz-part-mo98

Singer sewing machine oil is good stuff, it takes a long time to oxidize. But the viscosity is specifically for sewing machines. I have used it on the end bearings of brass mechanical wall clocks, and it works good in that application.

I don't think you can beat 5W-30 or 10X-30 synthetic motor oil as a inexpensive General Purpose firearm lube. In hot weather, I used rifle grease on my M1a, and LSA on my 1911's.



In cold weather, I use a thinner lube, like motor oil, or LSA on the M1a.

Listen to Connie:

Col. Harrumph said:

FWIW, which may be... well I'll leave that to you... I've been using this stuff on everything in all weathers, for years, and been very happy (see avatar, my happy face):

https://www.partsips.com/zoom-spout-turbine-oil-4-oz-part-mo98

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I love that stuff.

It's repackaged Singer oil with a viscosity stabilizer added to keep it from thickening in cold weather. Great stuff. Add a few drops to your morning coffee to keep "regular."

Slamfire said:

Singer sewing machine oil is good stuff, it takes a long time to oxidize. But the viscosity is specifically for sewing machines. I have used it on the end bearings of brass mechanical wall clocks, and it works good in that application.

I don't think you can beat 5W-30 or 10X-30 synthetic motor oil as a inexpensive General Purpose firearm lube. In hot weather, I used rifle grease on my M1a, and LSA on my 1911's.

View attachment 1022722

In cold weather, I use a thinner lube, like motor oil, or LSA on the M1a.

Listen to Connie:

View attachment 1022723

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I used lsa on a uberti win66 one time, luckily I shot it the next day and did a full cleaning. The whole in side on the brass was green/ blue. I always wondered what in the lsa did it.

troy fairweather said:

I used lsa on a uberti win66 one time, luckily I shot it the next day and did a full cleaning. The whole in side on the brass was green/ blue. I always wondered what in the lsa did it.

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LSA contains decoppering agents. It leeched the copper out of the brass.

GeoDudeFlorida said:

LSA contains decoppering agents. It leeched the copper out of the brass.

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That's one problem with a (do it all cleaner) I guess

I keep 5W30 full synthetic motor oil in one of those old fashioned pump oil cans with flexible spout. Use it on anything and everything that needs lubricated except knife pivots. They get food grade mineral oil as all my knives are likely to be in contact with food.

I may not know much but I do know it (that oil) lives a much harder life in an internal combustion engine than it does in/on any of my firearms.

thunderbyrd said:

i've never heard of an m231 firing port weapon. what the heck is it?

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That looks like a mounted armor publication. The m231 is for use as a firing port weapon on the Bradley fighting vehicle.