More than I expected?

So I got the two guns I bid on in an auction today. A Remington 572 Fieldmaster in Teal Wing Blue, and a Savage 99 that was REALLY rusted up. I posted photos of both in the Research section under the thread, Think I may have scored.
I completely took apart the Savage, and while yes, it's rusty, I think it's highly salvageable. I just don't want to put more into it than what buying a good 99 would cost me. I can strip it down, remove the rust, refinish the stock and put it back together, but I wanted to get it hot blued by a professional. I'm looking now, and seeing like a $400-$900 price tag on blueing. Is this correct? Because if it is, I may just have to sell the parts. It just wouldn't be worth it for me.
My only other option is to try and clean up the rust without stripping the blueing off, and hoping it all goes bang correctly. But you can see by the photos, that's almost impossible. Has anyone paid to have hot dip blueing done recently? I'd love to know what the ball park is on that. Last time I had something like that done was in the 80's for like $60-$75. I'll add a few photos here so you can see what I'm dealing with.

Since I wrote all that, I've been researching how to revitalize an old Soldier. I've been posting stuff on the other thread of mine, as well, but this has evolved into a restoration project for me. My first, in fact, and I will start with the 99. (I'll do my Rem. 572 when I'm done with this) I will post a few more before photos.

So, as stated previously, I've taken the gun COMPLETELY apart. I've been happily surprised by how well made these were. While cleaning and keeping the originals, I've been able to obtain some new springs from Numrich. The first and easiest thing to clean was the Cartridge Carrier.

The cleaned up components with the old spring on top, and the new below.

I originally thought everything would have to be stripped to bare metal and re-blued, however using only Hoppe's and nylon brush, sometimes brass brush, the parts are cleaning up great, I think. Yes, there's going to be pitting, but I'm good with that. It's keeping the gun original, and I'm just trying to get it to go Bang! once again. This is the original spring cleaned up.

Sorry, when editing, the words got all out of sync with the photos... story of my life...

The Cartridge Carrier all put together with the new spring inside.

The stock was in remarkably good shape considering all things. I have stripped it down.

Other than the one small chip by where the grip cap goes, it's not even dented. I had been wondering whether or not I was going to have to buy my wife a new iron when I steamed out the dents, but there were none! The worst part is the grease stains that go deep where the stock attaches to the receiver, and the butt plate. I've sanded out some, but I can live with what's left. It's part of her story. Again, I'm not striving for perfection, I'm looking to salvage and revive a noble friend.

After a lot of consultation with Larry Potterfield, I've decided on doing MY version of a sanded in finish. (There's so many opinions on finishing a stock on the internet, I decided that rather than picking one, I'll just add my own). I'm starting with a 2:1 mix of Odorless Mineral Spirits to True Oil. I'm sanding that in lightly, starting with 320 grit, letting it dry overnight, and doing that 3X.

I found my wife's Ultrasonic Jewelry cleaner holds a Peanut Butter jar and a Jelly jar perfectly! It really cleans the parts with Hoppe's.

Looks beautiful. I thought about re-bluing, but I'm gonna see how everything just shakes out in the Hoppe's. The 99 won't be meant to be a "Pretty" gun. It's obviously got a checkered past...like me. I'm hoping to just get a shooter. I think at this point, unless I really have to, the most I'll do to it will be to have it re-crowned. If I need to...

The butt stock after 3X with the 320 grit and Tru Oil/Spirits mix. Now I'll start 400 grit and just Tru Oil.

So my first li'l "snag". I re-installed some hardware. The sling stud, butt plate, and grip cap. I was going to start with the 400 grit, but the butt plate is slightly oversized, (which I'm not going to do anything about), but there's a slight gap on one side of the grip cap, where there's also a tiny chip missing. I'm going to have to take a step back, consult Larry Potterfield again, and try to make this look a bit better.

I took some parts that looked ready from the Hoppe's, and was very happy with the way they turned out.

So I took photos and uploaded them.

Only then did I see the rust left on a couple pieces that my aging eyes didn't catch. But I did see that a bit of color case hardening on the trigger spring is still there.