Browning Auto 5

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beefyz

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Hi
Need some advice from some of you "oldtimers", like myself.
At this time of my life i should be looking to dispose of some of my stuff rather than add to it. The Browning has always intrigued me, yet, after 45 yrs in the field never ran across anyone using one.
Before i check out, I feel the need to own one off these humpbacks now, but i'm not sure what to be looking for, as i want one of the older versions, between say 1945- 65. Another reason i got interested in one now is i walked into the local gun shop and he had one in 16ga which is what i want. I needed some work done on my Marlin 32-20 and after he fixed it he offered me $850. While looking at some of his used guns for sale, he had a Auto 5 in 16ga listed for $650 (?) Fit & finish was quite good, but from what i think i know about these Brownings, 650 sounded too low. He got busy with others and i didn't make any inquiries. Now i'm thinking i should go back and consider a trade. What should I be looking at/for? I know a little about the "friction ring(s)"; they are part of the gun right? Didn't some of these come in a different chamber, 2 9/16 i think. The one i was looking at was not a "sweet", no sweet engraving or gold trigger. You tube video talked about the sweet being just a lighter version of the regular 16 with the added engraving and as being more desirable to a collector. I'm not collecting so looking for an upland that will be used on pheasant hunts with either a modified or IC barrel. I'd be curious on what if any type of guarantee the dealer could give me and even with one, what would parts availability be like?
Any hints on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi
Need some advice from some of you "oldtimers", like myself.
At this time of my life i should be looking to dispose of some of my stuff rather than add to it. The Browning has always intrigued me, yet, after 45 yrs in the field never ran across anyone using one.
Before i check out, I feel the need to own one off these humpbacks now, but i'm not sure what to be looking for, as i want one of the older versions, between say 1945- 65. Another reason i got interested in one now is i walked into the local gun shop and he had one in 16ga which is what i want. I needed some work done on my Marlin 32-20 and after he fixed it he offered me $850. While looking at some of his used guns for sale, he had a Auto 5 in 16ga listed for $650 (?) Fit & finish was quite good, but from what i think i know about these Brownings, 650 sounded too low. He got busy with others and i didn't make any inquiries. Now i'm thinking i should go back and consider a trade. What should I be looking at/for? I know a little about the "friction ring(s)"; they are part of the gun right? Didn't some of these come in a different chamber, 2 9/16 i think. The one i was looking at was not a "sweet", no sweet engraving or gold trigger. You tube video talked about the sweet being just a lighter version of the regular 16 with the added engraving and as being more desirable to a collector. I'm not collecting so looking for an upland that will be used on pheasant hunts with either a modified or IC barrel. I'd be curious on what if any type of guarantee the dealer could give me and even with one, what would parts availability be like?
Any hints on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

I remember reading of cracked forends on Auto 5's when the friction rings were not set up for high brass rounds. I always was particular about keeping my 12 GA lubed and setting the friction rings to the ammunition. And not over tightening the fore end cap.

I did find this video about malfunctions with the improper orientation of the friction rings.



I was glad to see that MGW is selling friction rings

There is a complete disassembly video for the Auto 5



and let me recommend, never do a complete disassembly. I remember doing it before the internet, using a book, and it was not something that I want to do again. Just field strip the Auto 5, blow compressed down in the mechanism, and oil what you can.

I would inspect the 16 Ga by unscrewing the fore end cap, removing the barrel and fore end. Then examining for obvious rust and damage. Look down the tube and see if there is rust in the chamber, or down the tube, and if the barrel lugs are damaged. Check the extractor to see it rocks in the bolt and is not rusted in.

Lee Roy has a section on the Rem 11, which was a direct copy of the Auto 5. Has pictures of the proper ring orientation.

Remington Model 11Semi-Auto Shotgun

I never shot my Auto 5 enough to wear out anything, and I did not know anyone who had. An Auto 5 was a rare shotgun when I went dove hunting because the things were much more expensive than Remington 1100 shotguns. Browning designed a mechanism that was extremely robust and reliable. It is just very expensive to make. Imagine how much metal was tossed out milling that receiver!
 
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I have two humpback pawn shop finds, 16 and 12 gauge. Both date to the early 1950’s. The 16 was good to go with a good cleaning. The 12 was a beater with the blueing worn to white, rusted and a cracked forend. I repaired the cracked wood, refinished, and had the receiver and barrel re-blued.
I downloaded a schematic to orient the rings for heavy loads and left it there with no feeding or ejection issues.
I can’t tell you about parts as I haven’t needed any.
To better address your post, for $650 I would expect the shotgun to be ready to use with no repairs needed.
Good luck
 
Iffen you had been with me last Wednesday. You would have saw me kill a running buck with mine(12 ga A5). The dogs were after him and when he came by he had the after burners on.
Prior to the Reminton 1100. What you saw on dove hunts, deer hunts, and ducks etc. were Browing A5's-Winchester mdl 12's and Remington 870's with the occasional Ithaca 37 thrown in.............Most average shooters today want a CHEAP plastic fantastic that goes bang........Some of us still hunt with the old stuff.
 
When I went to buy a Remington 1100 in 1963, a comparable Auto 5 was $5 more. Several gun shops tried to talk me into the Auto 5, but I had had one of those and it was not my cup of tea. Three of my brothers-in-law had Auto 5s; within three years two of them had 1100s. Everyone is different, but in my opinion most folks either love the old hump back design or they don't. I have a duck hunting buddy who loves them and they have served him well. I still have my 1100 and that and a Wingmaster Magnum have served my waterfowling needs for 58 years. Over 60 other shotguns have come and mostly gone now. If you have shot them and like them have at it.
 
So far, THANKS, guys. Slamfire, GREAT videos. I've seen a few by Art, but not these. After viewing I went on his site to see what he "might" have. !!!!!!!!!!. SO many guns, and so little time.... Looks like bidenflation got to them also; the cheapest plain jane was 1350 and the bluing was about gone. Sweets started around 1500 and only got higher>>>>.
Whitetails (slugging) are out for me so not a consideration. Neither are the quackers. Will be used strictly om pheasant hunts. Funny, i never even though about an 1100 or knew they were that close to an A5. The 3 i have now are Rem 870s in 12 & 20 and i have a Parker-Hale double in 16 which i use now.
Please keep your advice/stories coming. Love it.
Virginian, "not your cup of tea", why?
 
A nice 16 gauge for $650 is a find. But there are a few pitfalls to avoid.

First, you don’t want a 65mm chamber. 65mm is 2 9/16” and you’d have to order ammo online or load them yourself. Fine if you’re a collector like me but a PITA for you. All pre-WWII FN produced 16’s have 65mm chambers, unless they’ve been converted to 70mm. You want to avoid those even more because you don’t know who did the conversion.

Next, there is the “American Browning”, produced by Remington during WWII. These are basically the Model 11 with a magazine cutoff and some engraving. They’re fine guns but $650 is about what one is worth in excellent condition. They are all chambered for the longer shell, however.

Parts are available for the Auto-5, but certain parts were modified in 1958 and pre-58 parts have to be scrounged on eBay, or if you’re lucky, Numrich. Watch Art’s videos for more information.
 
The finest, most robust, reliable semi auto you can find. No plastic parts, no neoprene rings, no nothing to impede operation. I have 12,20 and 12 magnum. Have to shoot in head up position because of plate in my neck. Keep 'em clean and lubed, they won't let you down.
 
I just sold mine a while back that would
have been a great gun for you.
Never had one failure out of all the shells
ever put through it
It's sat for several years serving as a spider
condo, so I decided to let it go

I can tell you that unless you're collecting
them and worried about prestige and such
that any of the Auto 5 Browning shotguns
( not the modern A5- I have no experience
with those) will serve you well. As far as
shooting and hunting, there's not a
molecule of difference between the
coveted belgium version and the japan
miroku version. I've had both in several
different Browning rifles and Auto 5's
and one is just as good as the other.
Good Luck
 
I dove hunt with my Savage 720 every year. The dove don’t know the difference.

The gun was beat down before I got it, with cracks in the wood everywhere. These guns can take amazing amounts of abuse and neglect and happily batter themselves to death for you.

there are many reasons why the foreends can (and do) split. But yes, this can be a thing with these old guns.

As with any gun, bore condition is key. If your prospective purchase has a good bore in the choke you want, then you are on to something.

if it is humanly possible, i would see if i could shoot the gun before purchase. There are sooo many things that have to go right and time up correctly in the action, it’s hard to diagnose problems if you dont know the gun intimately.

i would also plan on sourcing at least the two major springs in the gun-a recoil spring (the big one on the magazine tube), and an action spring (in the buttstock, to return the action to battery). Both are (or should be) available new from several sources.
 
I've never owned a real Browning but I had the Savage version it was a Savage 726 same design except with a 2 shot tube and only the Browning has the switch that will chamber one while your loading. Only thing I wanna point out is that old school recoil operated action will always be more reliable than something with a gas tube. My Savage never jammed nor did my old man's authentic Browning
 
Tough old guns with a hundred year old design working as well today as in 1911. I don't care for the humpback shape or the double shuffle action but if I wanted a bet your life on it shotgun it would be an Auto 5, Remington 11 or one of the Savage versions.
 
They are outstanding guns, IMO. Do your research like you are doing, learn what to look for, and buy a pretty nice one because you are almost certain to like it and want to keep it. I personally prefer the versions from the general era of the 1950s, but it's just aesthetics and personal preferences, not that there's a meaningful difference vs. later models. The same gun made today with the human craftsmanship that the old Belgium Auto 5s have would cost a small fortune. I feel that craftsmanship when the gun in in my hands. It's the type of gun I just want to take out and shoot for the enjoyment of operating it.
 
I personally like hump back look idk why

it isn’t just the look. The “humpback” is of course designed that way on purpose. Of course, there is a practical reason for it. But there is something about it that draws the eye immediately to the sighting plane. This feature also can be seen on the Stevens 520, 520A, and BAR of Bonnie and Clyde fame.
 
it isn’t just the look. The “humpback” is of course designed that way on purpose. Of course, there is a practical reason for it. But there is something about it that draws the eye immediately to the sighting plane. This feature also can be seen on the Stevens 520, 520A, and BAR of Bonnie and Clyde fame.
All I know is the simple recoil operated barrel actuated design with the big ol spring that fits over the mag tube beats the brakes off of gas operated as far as reliability. Only wusses are concerned with the recoil. Any automatic will kick less than a single double or pump
 
Great thread. I have my grandpa’s 12g A5 that he bought new back in 1937. Should I only shoot high wall brass shells through it?
 
Great thread. I have my grandpa’s 12g A5 that he bought new back in 1937. Should I only shoot high wall brass shells through it?
Make sure it has a 2 3/4 chamber and that the bore is good. If yes to both it will be fine. I'd just say no steel shot. Now if it's one of the 2 5/8 or 2 9/16 chambers keep it as a keep sake or order some vintage style paper shells in the correct length. These are still made for antique guns sake.
 
It’s a 2 3/4 chamber. A lot of the wrist checkering is worn off from grandpa’s hands. I sure do miss him. There’s a chunk of wood missing but I’ve still shot it in the past. Just been a while now.
 
The Browning Auto 5 was my wife's wedding gift to me when we got married 36 years ago.
So we had a shotgun wedding of sorts I guess. :)
I have hunted duck, goose, squirrel, rabbit and deer with it for many years.
It's still in like-new condition and I treasure it.
I'll never part with it.
 
"Sweet Sixteen" and 12 Gauge Auto five. I've had them forever. Grouse, Pheasant, Duck, Rabbit, and Squirrel they both have harvested a lot of them. If the 16 Gauge is in good shape $650.00 is low. The A-5 again in good shape is more like $500.00. Note: Neither gun will shoot steel shot without damage. IMG_1098.jpg Storm 3 Bd.jpg
 
Thanks for all the great & timely replies. Ironically the first week end in Dec there was to be a local show and remembered always running across at least 1-2 that i could now look at a bit more seriously. The night before the show got real sick and it turned out to be covid pneumonia. i 'm still on my ass & this is something you don't want.....
Merry Christmas to all....
 
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