Still fiddling with my single shot

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Appalachiannative

Appalachiannative

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So my Stevens 94 12 gauge I bought at the flea market is no longer picky about shells thanks to a good disassemble and clean. See my thread "picky about shells" if curious about this. Next problem to tackle is the tendency for the snap on fore arm to come loose when firing. I initially believed this to be spring related but I now believe it to be the result of some half assed gunsmithing by a previous owner. I think the forearm pivot plate screws were replaced with over sized non factory screws causing the pivot plate and the hook of the frame to be out of wack. Note the scratched hook and the gap between the hook and pivot plate when assembled IMG_20220112_223612517.jpg IMG_20220112_221959265_MP.jpg Anyone know enough about these to say? Also if this is the case and the holes for the screws are all bored out how can I fix it so some factory spec screws will go back in? IMG_20220112_222038610.jpg
 
Take the forend metal mounting screws out of the fore-end metal, replace with proper fitting counter sunk screws and heads. You could turn the present ones down on a drill press with a flat file or in a lathe if you have access. The screw heads need to be snug, just below the surface of the interior of the metal. Currently the heads are “proud” sticking up and cutting the action at the joint, a not so good fix, apparently years ago.
If the screws will not screw in any furthur, then check the depth with a smaller drill bit against the screw shank, the hole should be a bit deeper to screw in walnut. If a problem, screwing into walnut, dip in soap, but will not cut new threads very well over about .003 undersized and will not make new depth at all.
 
I wonder if the screw holes got loose and the previous owner went up to the next size. The reason they are setting high. If this is the case you may need to drill out the screw hole and use some thickened epoxy to hold the proper screw. Or fill with a wood dowel epoxied in. Either will work if done right. Don't use wood glue, it want hold up to the oil and solvents used on guns.
 
Blue68f100 said:
I wonder if the screw holes got loose and the previous owner went up to the next size. The reason they are setting high. If this is the case you may need to drill out the screw hole and use some thickened epoxy to hold the proper screw. Or fill with a wood dowel epoxied in. Either will work if done right. Don't use wood glue, it want hold up to the oil and solvents used on guns.
Click to expand...
I fear this may be the case since the hole for the screw that holds the wood on is bored out a little
 
Armorer 101 said:
Take the forend metal mounting screws out of the fore-end metal, replace with proper fitting counter sunk screws and heads. You could turn the present ones down on a drill press with a flat file or in a lathe if you have access. The screw heads need to be snug, just below the surface of the interior of the metal. Currently the heads are “proud” sticking up and cutting the action at the joint, a not so good fix, apparently years ago.
If the screws will not screw in any furthur, then check the depth with a smaller drill bit against the screw shank, the hole should be a bit deeper to screw in walnut. If a problem, screwing into walnut, dip in soap, but will not cut new threads very well over about .003 undersized and will not make new depth at all.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably pull them out and see what the hole looks like then decide whether to order factory style screws or modify the existing ones
 
Rather than try to run the screws in deep I pulled them out and used a rotary tool to file them down. Got them to fit recessed and then the forearm wouldn't even stay on. Backed them out to flush, it would kinda stay on but fell off when I held the gun out with one hand to put it on the rack. Backed them out back to the old proud position now we are back to where we started tight almost enough but still might come loose while shooting. So that solves the mystery of the over sized non factory screws. New problem to figure out is do I have a weak forearm spring spring (that's really what it's called) or I'm starting to wonder if this is a forearm was canabalized from a 16 gauge gun. Leaning towards the spring
 
Following this with interest, I have a savage mod 94c, 12 ga .
This gun has had the exact problem for as long can remember, as it was my grandfathers, my fathers, now in my hands. My grandfather had taped the forearm to the barrel years ago,( i was probably ten at the time, 59 now) and it's still that way today. i have shot many rounds through it over the years and would like fix and retire it till my grandson is old enough to hunt with me.
 
mnscruff said:
Following this with interest, I have a savage mod 94c, 12 ga .
This gun has had the exact problem for as long can remember, as it was my grandfathers, my fathers, now in my hands. My grandfather had taped the forearm to the barrel years ago,( i was probably ten at the time, 59 now) and it's still that way today. i have shot many rounds through it over the years and would like fix and retire it till my grandson is old enough to hunt with me.
Click to expand...
Mine is called Stevens 94F. Can't find a parts diagram that says F so I just use the standard 94 diagram since everything looks the same. 94E has a firing pin spring mine does not and neither does yours I think. Anyhow though. I've noticed a lot of wiggle in my fore end spring even after replacing the little spring that goes below it. I think this is part of the problem. My FIL has a 20 gauge single shot of a different model but still Stevens or Savage don't remember and I noticed his forend spring is a lot stiffer and can not wiggle left to right like mine does, his forend stays on nice and tight. Does yours have the wiggle like mine?
 
yes, mine is missing the spring completely so without the tape it falls right off. I have a Winchester 34a, with same type setup and you have to really pull to release forearm. Numrich has the parts i need, but the wood for the retainer has been repaired, (rather poorly), after really looking at it now. I just placed an order for an aftermarket replacement forearm from, Numrich. Thanks for reminding me of this repair. Not really cost effective to repair, the gun isn't valuable to anyone but me. haha
 
mnscruff said:
yes, mine is missing the spring completely so without the tape it falls right off. I have a Winchester 34a, with same type setup and you have to really pull to release forearm. Numrich has the parts i need, but the wood for the retainer has been repaired, (rather poorly), after really looking at it now. I just placed an order for an aftermarket replacement forearm from, Numrich. Thanks for reminding me of this repair. Not really cost effective to repair, the gun isn't valuable to anyone but me. haha
Click to expand...
I got to looking closer at pulling all the screws out and noticed for the first time that according to the parts diagram my spring housing should be one piece, mine is in two as seen below. I didn't realize this was not ment to be two pieces until I looked at this part on the diagram. Someone broke it and as a result it does not stay seated good. Using a wad of electrical tape and a staple jammed up beneath the side of the housing in which the springs are situated they attempted to level out the two pieces. This must have worked for some time but after a season of squirrel hunting I managed to un do this half assed repair. A complete new forend will be $80 on numrich vs a new stripped spring housing will be $20. I wonder will repair be less than replacement? Surely epoxy and Dowling couldn't be that much IMG_20220131_200248801_MP.jpg IMG_20220131_200223931.jpg
IMG_20220131_200220590.jpg IMG_20220131_200358867.jpg
 
Your forearm looks way better then what i have. I may have to refinish the stock and/or forearm to match, but way easier than rebuilding. These old singles are worth what? 75-150 bucks in good condition, but it is a tough old woods gun.
 
The forearm can easily be repaired. Just need to drill out the hole to get to good sound wood, then epoxy a dowel in. Or if you have access to some High Density Additive and West system epoxy you could fill it. This is special to the west system, designed specifically for attaching hardware in wood, marine use. I sets up like liquid steel, can actually drill and tap if needed.
 
You could cut out the bad stuff and replace with good wood, (wood chisel and replace the bad wood or drill and hard wood dowel), I would fix it rather than replace, but that may be just me.

d
 
webrx said:
You could cut out the bad stuff and replace with good wood, (wood chisel and replace the bad wood or drill and hard wood dowel), I would fix it rather than replace, but that may be just me.

d
Click to expand...
Yea I definitely don't want to pay $80 for a whole new forend. These things are not ment to be expensive. Not to mention all this guns furniture has a blonde stain and the ones from numrich have brown so I would have to re do the finish on the new forend or the stock to make them match. Its just that I have 0 experience in wood repair. Ain't done much staining either. I'll just take baby steps and doing a little more each day frequently stopping to check over my work so I don't make anything worse.
 
get a piece of hardwood, cut it to fit, or like someone above said, drill a hole glue and pin in a hardwood dowel. Plastic wood wont hold up to recoil I dont think, but then again I never tried it.

d
 
This is the stuff you want. Has 1001 uses. Similar to JB Weld.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Devcon-2-Ton-Epoxy/20371007

Find a maple or oak 1/4" dowel at your favorite box store or hardware store. Or use the ribbed plugs available at any lumber store. Drill a hole the same size as the dowel or plug using the existing holes as the pilot hole. Use a drill press or drill guide as the hole needs to be straight and un-wollered out. Mix a little epoxy and coat the plug and drip a little bit in the hole. Push the plugs in and wipe away the excess. Do not get any on wood you want to stain or has finish on it. It will cause problems. Epoxy has a short work time so have everything ready before mixing the epoxy. Take a ratchet strap and use it to gently put pressure on the plugs.

Once hard, cut the plugs flush and sand. Then apply some boiled linseed oil or similar to seal it all up. Then take your screws and measure the shank without the threads. Find a drill bit that is equal to or just smaller than that base minor diameter of the screw. Drill pilot holes for the screws in the correct places. This will keep wood or epoxy from cracking.

Keep asking questions, but the only way to learn is to just do it. We can guide you through it.
 
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