Lee Case Length Gauge

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Howa 9700

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This one.


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Have used it with two other calibers with good results, but not this time. Instructions are both brief and incomplete......but design is such that the stud or spindle screws into the cutter base. The case then mounts into a shell holder, which if fitted to an electric drill which spins it. Spindle is inserted into the case. What I though was the depth control isn't....at least not on this one. I thought it was the small pin that sticks through the flash hole to ride on shell holder base. That would set the overall length, as it can't go any further in. This one is rubbing on the tapered shoulder of the spindle...inside the case.

SAMMI spec for max case length for the 6mm Rem is 2.233. With this tool, you are supposed to be able to trim that back to 2.213 or .020 below max....also a SAMMI spec. The screw on the length gauge spindle screws into the cutter base. It is a collet type slotted screw that begins to tension up as it begins to bottom out. Full bottom out would appear to be the 2.213 length. Screw it out a bit, and you can get to the SAMMI max. Neat design if it works.

This one......when bottomed out..........will only trim the cases to 2.235........or .002 over max.

For those of you who understand how this is supposed to work.......what is the controlling depth adjustment? Is it supposed to be that pin on the end that pokes through the flash hole? Is so, this one is bad. I sanded the tip of the pin down some and nothing changed.
 
Yeah the pin at the end of the shaft is designed to bottom out on the anvil of the lock stud with the primer removed to cut to length. Sounds like the base of the tool before the pin is bottoming out on the inside of the webb. A call to Lee seems in order as it seems built incorrectly. Does the pin stick inside the flash hole if you insert it from the flash hole side? If not the pin is too short for the brass you are using.
 
Yes.....shaft appears be too long......so bottoms out on the web inside the case. Had concluded it had to be the pin.......as depth of web is not constant.

Since they run $6, have decided to get a replacement. If that one is also bad.......may move up to a better trimmer.........like one of the mini lathes.
 
Yeah looks to me like a bad depth guide. Usually the turned down ‘pin’ portion is longer. If it wasn’t trimming over length I would have guessed that it had broken or was incorrectly trimmed. I’ve even filed the pin down a bit on one to get the exact trim length I wanted.
 
The pin in your picture looks too short. All of mine look about twice as long. Might be a defective trim stud. Lee should replace it for free but you will have to send it back on your dime.
 
It is too short........because I was attempting to "adjust" it by sanding down the tip. A couple strokes on some sandpaper......measure......no change. So did it again. By the time I realized what I had done, it was that short. It was then I realized the bevel on the shaft was what it was rubbing on.

BTW, that gauge also screws in and out of the cutter base. Unless it is is screwed in deep enough, it does not trim any case. It was screwed all the way in until it stopped. So have concluded it was not right from the get go. Have another one on order to try again.

For a low volume operation like mine, these seem easy enough to use and effective. And at $6 per caliber, pretty cheap. But not if it's off.
 
Got to be just a faulty one...I have a couple dozen of those and they always just work. Not really adjustable without modification of course, but a very economical and easily motorized way to trim. I've found the cutter with the ball handle to be much more comfortable for me, especially if I'm trimming a lot at a time.
 
Agreed, I have used these for years to trim my brass. I use the cutter/length rod chucked into a drill press to turn it with a speed reducing box. I clamp a piece of aluminum plate to the drill table to act as the stop. Using the table alone will cause the pin to wear shorter time. Using the plate gets the wear on the plate and when wear is noted I just move the plate to a new area. I also use a glove with those round plastic dots on them to better hold the brass from slipping. Several hundred go quickly by this method. In fact it is easier to just trim them all each time than to check for length first. The ones that actually needed trimming go into the chamfer/ream pile for further processing.
 
The one I have from 40 yrs ago are so hard the only way you will be able to shorten them in on a diamond stone. I would not want to run them against a soft surface. I've had not used any of mine in 35 yrs. I don't know if they changed their steel to something soft, to make it cheaper. All the ones I have are set to trim at recommended trim length.
 
OK, new replacement arrived. As near as I can tell, it is right. With case mounted in the chuck.....it does not cut. If spindle is inserted into the case and turned by hand, it does some light cutting.

So new question is what is the lifespan of the cutter? Each caliber has it's own landing place.....so point where each caliber contacts cutters moves in and out with caliber. This cutter having been used on 30 caliber, 270 and 243......but I doubt it has had 100 pieces of brass run through on the 243/6mm area. But I tried a piece of 30-06 brass on the bare cutter and it was cutting. 6mm wasn't. Do they wear out that fast?

BTW, have something similar going on with an RCBS tool used to cut primer crimp out of LC brass. Less than 100 rounds.......and it no longer cuts.
 
I have several of these and my biggest complaint is the short life of the cutter. I've also seen short life with RCBS and Lyman primer pocket tools. The tools from Wilson seem to be made of better steel. Sinclair and K&M also use better steel in their tools.
 
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Trimming nickel cases will shorten the cutters life a bit faster. I end up with a new cutter about once a year. I have had success chucking the cutter into a drill press with 1/2 chuck. Putting a diamond sharpner on the table and lowering the cutter onto it to sharpen. Just keep things square.
 
BTW, although it is now working.......does not appear to be working as intended. With the case gauge stem screwed in all the way until it comes to rest on the cutter blades...........the trimmed case measures 2.231.......or only .002 below max of 2.233.

As per SAMMI specs......min case length can be 2.213.........or 0.020 below max. Instructions suggest this cutter will go that far. Presumably you would get to that be screwing stem all the way in to stop.

Seems I ran into something similar when trimming 270 win cases. Am I still doing something wrong?
 
BTW, although it is now working.......does not appear to be working as intended. With the case gauge stem screwed in all the way until it comes to rest on the cutter blades...........the trimmed case measures 2.231.......or only .002 below max of 2.233.

As per SAMMI specs......min case length can be 2.213.........or 0.020 below max. Instructions suggest this cutter will go that far. Presumably you would get to that be screwing stem all the way in to stop.

Seems I ran into something similar when trimming 270 win cases. Am I still doing something wrong?
It's a pretty simple tool, and tough to operate incorrectly. The only thing I can offer is that I can't screw those things into the cutter all the way holding them with just my hand. I have to use a pair of pliers to hold the stem so I can screw it all the way in, being careful not to twist so hard I mar the stem with the plier jaws. If you are sure you've got it screwed all the way in, my thought is that Lee's quality control folks are dropping the ball and you got two in a row that are out of spec.
 
After posting, went to the shop and pulled out the first stem.....the one I had sanded down the tip. Pulled out some sized brass....didn't need to be trimmed as it was good as was, but wanted it for a test. Chucked up the shorter stem and it started cutting. Took a once fired case from 2.225 to 2.220 in short order.

So it appears my first instinct was right. As it came from the package, the spacing of this particular caliber of trim gauge was made to barely trim a case back to the SAMMI max. That is when it is screwed all the way in until it comes to rest against cutter blades. Screwing it out any at all will not trim a case back to SAMMI max. The stem where I sanded down the tip a bit keeps going.

To adjust the one I sanded the tip down to where I want it, all I would have to do is screw it out until it stops cutting at the length I want. Since the threaded end of the stem is split.....and threads into a collate type receiver on the cutter......it stays put where you set it.
 
Lee must me having QC problems with these. I have several and they work well but the last one I bought (2 weeks ago) in 350 Legend would not fully slide into the case fully. The case would hard stop on the butt end of the length guage and block the case mouth from reaching the cutter. I had my brother turn it down with his lathe and a fine flat file to make it work.
 
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