Removal of blue loctite question

With blue loctite I wipe off any loose stuff apply more and keep going.

It won't hurt anything if a little gets left in the threads.
Loctite is not actually an adhesive, even though it does stick pretty well. What it actually does is harden in the space between the bolt threads and the internal threads and cause enough interference that the bolt/screw is "locked" in place.

Ultrasonic bath?

wd40 is a solvent for locktite

Chase the threads with a tap then install the new rings without any thread locker.

Some solvents MAY soften Loctite, which can make mechanical removal a bit easier. Depends on the particular Loctite formulation which solvent may do this.

For residue clean up, the best is immediate removal before it cures. Acetone is about the best for blue Loctite, but may require soaking. A problem with it affecting adjacent joints may be an issue, however.

For removal from threads, it honestly may be best to invest in a set of tap and dies to assist. Brass wire brushing may work, but tiny threads aren't cleaned so easily this way, especially threaded holes. And you may end up marking surfaces with brass streaks removing residue.

Applying Loctite can be a lot like applying aluminum anti-seize compound...a complete mess with it everywhere. There's a lot to be said for learning ways to apply exactly what you need, exactly where you need it, in order not to make a mess. For tiny screws, I'll use the tip of a toothpick (scribe, needle, etc.), dab it in the Loctite, then touch it precisely where I want it. No muss, no fuss.

(By the way...sewing needles come in many sizes, and the eyelet end works great at holding tiny amounts of Loctite to be dabbed onto threads.)

Loctite is one of those things you don't need a ton of to do the job. The problem is that with tiny hardware applications, it's very difficult not to end up with WAY too much. Even the small squeeze tubes the Loctite comes in produces huge drops relative to small hardware. A drop on a 1/2" bolt is one thing...on a #6 screw, it's quite another.

Keep in mind that saying "blue" Loctite still leave things open to several different products from Loctite. There are 10 unique products from Loctite that are considered "blue loctite" not to mention all the competitors brands that also come in blue colors. There are version of the blue Loctite that are intended to be applied to the screw then allowed to dry before use. The blue loctites are there primarily to keep vibration from back off the screw. They work by gumming up the threads and work nearly as well even if the screw is removed and re-inserted. There is no need to clean most blue loctites off if you going to reuse the screw. Add a little more and keep going works fine in most cases.

Think resin not lock tight

Unless it's been poured on like syrup on pancakes I just leave it alone.

Methylene Chloride to dissolve it as per the manufacturer.
There's a running thread about this on another forum.
Guy had a lil helper pour a bottle into a trigger assy.
Has tried everything so far and is getting some Methylene Chloride to try next.

LOCTITE SF 768 Solvent blend designed to remove cured cyanoacrylate adhesive or debond parts assembled with cyanoacrylate adhesive.

Price to high on Amazon. $66 for 1.75 oz.

For small screws I poke them through some paper, apply as much as you care to waste and pull them out wiping the excess off.

For small screws I like Vibratite better.
They do make a Loktite stick that is not as messy as the liquid.

I'd wire brush it, rinse it (not allowed to use the same term as a feminine cleansing product) with some sort of solvent (brake clean is my go-to) then reuse them.
With larger hardware, I'll chase the threads with a die...

beagler said:

I was able to get most of it off, but there is still some deep in the threads.

Click to expand...

Every man needs a hobby, but. . .

Stop doing that. Pinch the threads in my a rag, turn out with a screw driver, mildly degrease (mineral spirits) and re-LocTite.

Better yet, VibraTite.

Find some Nitro Methane, it's the solvent used for most cyanacrylate adhesive (aka super glue). I use to use it to remove strain gauges without disturbing the surface. Problem is it evaporates fast and is flammable.

A job I had the assembly mechs would have thread locker on a sponge. Dab the screw on sponge and install. Easy, no mess, effective.

243winxb said:

LOCTITE SF 768 Solvent blend designed to remove cured cyanoacrylate adhesive or debond parts assembled with cyanoacrylate adhesive.

Price to high on Amazon. $66 for 1.75 oz.

Click to expand...

Yes...and it's been used with mixed reviews by many people. It's supposed to be useful on cured Loctite, but many report it to be of dubious value. At best softening it after soaking, which could be a problem if used to remove excess in areas around threadlocked components.

The MSDS for Loctite 76820 (SF 768) says it's composed of nitromethane (90-100%) and Toluene (5-10%).

Other cyanoacrylate solvents are also avalialbe, some of them a bit more affordable. Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) is available at a fraction of the cost of SF 768. Methylene chloride (dichloromethane, or DCM) is also readily available at much lower prices. If you want to use the same thing as SF 768, you can also buy nitromethane itself.

powermad said:

For small screws I poke them through some paper, apply as much as you care to waste and pull them out wiping the excess off.

For small screws I like Vibratite better.
They do make a Loktite stick that is not as messy as the liquid.

Click to expand...

They also make medium streinght locktite TAPE. Apply like plumbers teflon tape Good for 1/4 in. and up bolts.