Burn Ring removal on front of cylinder.

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kda

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I just has such a pleasant surprise that I wanted to share it with anyone that might benefit.

My S&W 637 snub nose airweight revolver had black burn marks on the front of the stainless steel cylinder, and the "forcing cone" was pretty black also.

None of the conventional cleaning aids I typically use (Hoppe's, Hoppe's Elite, CLP) worked very well at cleaning those black burn rings off. I wasn't about to take a bronze brush to those areas fearing I might scratch the outside of the cylinder or other easily seen areas. Yeah I know bronze is softer than stainless but ....

Finally while at Sportsman's Warehouse I noticed "Birchwood Casey "Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth". Claimed to Quickly remove Leading, Burn Rings and Carbon Residue. Yeah, Sure! But having no other solutions I gave it a try.

I was in for a very pleasant surprise. I cut about an inch off of the end of the 9" x 12" cloth and started gently wiping the front of the cylinder. Using small circular strokes, not pressing very hard. Short story .... it worked. It worked really really well. Took no time at all.

The revolver looks brand new and it took less than two minutes to wipe away all of the burn rings and the black crud around the forcing cone. It left the front of the cylinder well polished with no hint of scratches or abrasion. The cloth didn't feel abrasive either so I had no worry about removing material that shouldn't be removed. I don't know what Birchwood Casey uses to impregnate that cloth but for burn marks and rings, it is sheer magic. At least on stainless steel.

It isn't often that I run across a product that is far better than I expected or had hoped for. So I thought I'd mention it here.
 
I saved the two minutes, wiped the whole thing with CLP, wiped it off with a rag, reloaded it and stuck it back in my pocket.

I might use that stuff on a leaded-up .357 or .44, though. Thanks for the report.:)
 
Ive used them for the same purpose and with good results. Also cut them into patches and they work wonders on leaded bores.

They do caution using them with some blued finishes though, so you may want to test it out before you get to carried away with your blued guns.

The other thing you can do, and it really doesnt mar the finish of either blued or SS guns, is just use an old bore brush or one of the "wire" toothbrush type brushes they sell for cleaning your guns. I've also wrapped one of the lead remover patches I cut around the brush, and it works even better than one or the other alone. Same goes for the bore.
 
The other thing you can do, and it really doesnt mar the finish of either blued or SS guns, is just use an old bore brush or one of the "wire" toothbrush type brushes they sell for cleaning your guns.

This is not advised on clearcoated guns like a 637 or other aluminum-frame lightweight.
 
BTW I took some advice from a combat veteran who also shot competitively in the military: don't bother spending all your time getting the gun perfectly clean. It's going to get dirty again. Just get the crud out, oil it and call it a day.:)
 
It doesnt harm the barrel or cylinder, which are SS. Maybe if you were to get over zealous on the frame it would be an issue.
 
BTW I took some advice from a combat veteran who also shot competitively in the military: don't bother spending all your time getting the gun perfectly clean. It's going to get dirty again. Just get the crud out, oil it and call it a day.:)
Smart guy.
 
I've never worried about it very much. Now you've got my attention. Thanks for the info.
 
There are cloths, Lead Away or something like that. A few wipes and the marks are gone. I use one to clean the marks off of my stainless steel SRH. No scrubbing, no brushes, etc.
 
That's why I wipe the thing down with CLP. If you do that when you shoot it, you only get a mark, not buildup. Takes about 1.6 seconds.:)
 
I've used the Lead Away cloth successfully for those rings but it wasn't easy. It took a lot of rubbing to get it clean.
 
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