38 special brass??
- Thread starter savagelover
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""Plus, I want the most accurate as I can get.""
I know different brands of brass have different case web profiles that affect the case volume.
Cases with different volume, loaded with the same charge could develop different pressures/accuracy.
So, the short answer is separating brass by brands could get you the best accuracy.
Trimming to uniform length after brand separation may also improve accuracy and further testing (groups or chronograph) would verify this.
jmo,
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ontarget
Member
I reload all of my CF handgun ammo. I typically don't sort cases, or tumble my brass either. Like a few of the others, I trim brass only once after it is acquired and then shoot it until it wears out.
1KPerDay
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Please tell me that’s with a rifle.
Riomouse911
Member
Indeed, I’d be very happy with that bullseye-peppering result at 15!
I have thousands of .38 Spl. cases. I also have thousands of .32 H&R, .357, .41M and S, .44M and S, 45 Colt, etc. I do separate the all brass cases from the nickel plated cases, but other than that I just load, shoot, clean, prep, prime and repeat.
Stay safe.
tightgroup tiger
Member
I hope that is with his Rossi 92, that means he got his accuracy issues straightened out.
if you want it accurate, or consistent - sort it by headstamp and trim it all to a consistent lenght if it isn't already by headstamp. you may find by headstamp it is more consisten than mixed. you're crimps may vary by headstamp, but - if you shoot 20 of this case and 20 of that case, by headstamp you'll be more consistent. you're not likely to get super accurate anything with mixed brass, the brass is different and it will behave different and affect how the charge goes off, and that inconsistency will not make very accurate or consistent cartrdiges.
If you're shooting paper for tiny groups it will matter. If you're shooting steel 6" gongs at 25 yards - mixed brass is fine IMHO.
If you're shooting paper for tiny groups it will matter. If you're shooting steel 6" gongs at 25 yards - mixed brass is fine IMHO.
buck460XVR
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It comes down to the degree of accuracy you are striving for. Mixed brass, because of case thickness and thus case volume will give slight variances, even when trimmed to the same length. For the majority of folks, in .38 special type firearms, that amount of variance is not noticeable. Same can be true for many folks in any handgun caliber. Their own abilities are not good enough to warrant the need to trim or segregate brass, and so they don't.
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savagelover
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S&w 686 revolver with a red dot sight
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savagelover
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686 6 inch S&W
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savagelover
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As far as the Rossi goes I did finally got it worked out. I'm using the lee 158 gr at bhn of 10 sized at .360. and 2400 powder.
Speedo66
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After you sort all your brass by manufacturer, trim them to equal length, and weigh each bullet, be sure your primers are from the same lot and manufacturer and each powder charged is weighed and from the same lot.
Then be sure the boxes you store them in are from the same company. Just kidding on that. lol
How far do you want to take this?
Then be sure the boxes you store them in are from the same company. Just kidding on that. lol
How far do you want to take this?
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savagelover
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Let's end it
BobWright
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Umm...............I'll differ with your there. Revolver cases stretch until they encroach on the throat. The roll crimp will allow over length cartridges to chamber and fire, which does increase pressure and makes for stiff extraction. And, differing lengths will lead to inaccuracy. Its best for all cases be the same length.
I may be a mite over bearing on my case preparation, but its never failed me to date.
Bob Wright
1KPerDay
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Ok I’m going with “your current process is good
halfmoonclip
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Nice thing with revos; sorted brass can come out of the gun, and go back in the box. Unlike autos, which scatter them.
Previous posters have it figured; how accurate do you need to be?
It's like the old saying about speed; it costs money. How fast can you afford to go?
Personally, I'm pretty sloppy about it; my ammo still shoots as straight as I do, and it chronos well.
Moon
Previous posters have it figured; how accurate do you need to be?
It's like the old saying about speed; it costs money. How fast can you afford to go?
Personally, I'm pretty sloppy about it; my ammo still shoots as straight as I do, and it chronos well.
Moon
CoalTrain49
Member
The throat is a barrel or cylinder dimension, or both. Obviously if the cartridge can be loaded into a cylinder and closed it isn't a case dimension issue. Cases don't encroach on the barrel throat, bullets do that. In the case of a revolver, if the bullets were actually causing a problem with the barrel throat, the out-of-spec OAL wouldn't allow the cylinder to turn because bullets would be jamming against the barrel forcing cone. You may be forgetting that a revolver cylinder is the chamber unlike a rifle or pistol.
I have experience with that using a 625. Ammo over the OAL due to bullet creep will lock the cylinder up tight. They simply can't be fired.
How does that happen? The OAL is within spec when the cyl is closed. Firing the revolver pulls the bullet and OAL becomes too long which locks the cyl.
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Archie
Member
It depends on the level of accuracy one seeks. I load .38 Special ammo to self defense accuracy standards. That is all shots WILL (I may not always) group six inches at 25 yards. Most decent brass will do that. They will well fit nicely on the A zone of an IPSC (or whatever it's called these days) target. Quite enough for self defense for me. (I seldom shoot guns out of hands.)
If one is target shooting - ten slowfire shots at 50 yards - one would want to be as accurate as possible.
Basic rule is to always load in the same headstamp. Great idea. But manufacturers make brass in lots. So, two units of brass from different lots (which may or may not be identifiable) can easily have different weights, indicating a difference in internal volume and they aren't the same. In my mind weighing each piece is of greater significance. However, I only do this for precision rifle calibers and not for handgun plinking calibers.
1976B.L.Johns.
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I trimmed and matched head stamps when load testing. I use mixed stamps when doing batches of the same load. They don’t quite shoot as well as the test loads. I also load bulk ammo with a powder measure instead of individually weighing the powder.
Archie
Member
I think that is attributable to you, Mr. Johns.
Brass, like many component parts is made in lots. However, two lots may be made at the same time, depending on type. And a lot from 2019 may not be all used up until 2020 when a new lot is made (of whatever) and those components needed are used with little or no regard as to lot number. Mass manufacture is like that.
Archie
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I do not doubt you a bit. However, I would suggest it depends on the degree of accuracy desired. Target loads should be 'tighter' in grouping than self defense loads. Which is not to say defense loads need no standards at all.
Remington1911
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I am sure it is a factor in making the most accurate rounds possible, I also am sure I am no where good enough to take advantage of it.
I would just do it the same as you usually do it. (what I do) I shoot quite a bit of 38, and while I don't trim that often I will measure them about every 3rd outing.
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