Looking for an approach to trimming new revolver brass

[murf]

trim all to the 1.265" minimum (deburr inside and out) and toss the two shorties. problem solved.

most don't trim revolver brass. that is fine and no harm done.

i like the most accurate (read consistent) ammo i can make, so i trim. the neat part is i only have to trim one time and i trim as soon as possible.

luck,

murf

 

[eb in oregon]

I'll use my learning curve with the 454 Casull as the example. Well, after trying a bunch of different things out, I said screw it, I give the die about 1/2 turn past engagement with the crimping shoulder, took those 6 out back and let em rip. Wellah.....the gun instantly had more ummph, no more unburned powder, and the velocities came up to the neighborhood they were supposed to be in.

This is only an opinion, but you could also go to a faster powder. The unburnt powder flakes (as you suggested) were a matter of burn time, which with a faster powder would be less. I remember reading years ago (I think from Elmer Keith) that for the slower powders a very firm crimp was necessary to insure complete combustion. A faster powder would allow complete combustion and the crimp would only need be enough to insure the bullets stay in place during recoil. I've experienced the same unburnt powder flakes in pistols with shorter barrels which was remedied with a slightly faster powder. Though the firmer crimp does allow the reloader to use slower powders. I've never crushed a pistol case yet from over crimping, but I've made some ugly cartridges that barely chambered due to too much crimp.

 

[Rule3]

If you are using LEAD bullets with a cannelure, then that groove measurement is going be greater than any variance you may have with Starline brass, So just load to the center of that groove and have no worries mate!