CZ 75B and CGW parts question

I've got close to two dozen CZ pistols all have CGW parts. I go all out and do the pro package.

Safety models are easier than decocker models, but neither is that bad.

Am a low level home gunsmith. But I do collision repair/ restoration on high end cars, so am not some ham handed idiot either.

I don’t have 2 dozen CZs, but convert the ones I’ve had to single action, with CGW flat triggers. I use the floating trigger pins, since the CZ pins are ruined driving them out. I am a mechanic by trade, and if you can rebuild an automatic transmission, set up ring and pinion gears, working on guns is not to hard to do

I have 6 CZ 75-based guns and have installed at least as much as the CGW Ultra-Lite kit in each of them. The 85 Combat has a selection of CGW parts that ended up being about the same as if I'd just installed the Pro Kit with Single Action Only trigger. I'd consider the installation pretty easy, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined (for example, I've had 47 licensed vehicles in my life, other than mounting tires and the occasional 4-wheel alignment, I've probably taken one of my vehicles to a mechanic maybe 4 or 5 times in total).

Whether or not you can do it yourself depends upon how mechanically inclined you are. I would not say it's difficult, and I expect most guys can definitely do it. There are also YouTube videos for most everything nowadays, so you can use those as a guide if needed. The Ultra-Lite kit will make a noticeable improvement in the trigger pull (and will make the slide easier to rack if that matters to you), and is relatively easy to install. You might start with that if you're concerned about getting in too deep, or if you just want to get a feel for what CGW parts do for CZs. The Pro Kit is really what you want in the gun, though (or at least that's my perference).

The platform is harder to work on than glocks, but it’s doable. I’d say I have moderate experience and skills. I installed a hammer, sear, and spring kit. Parts were top quality and fit perfectly. CGW is good stuff and if you can’t figure it out their gunsmithing work is awesome as well.

Not a gunsmith by any means and I know my limitations. With care and taking my time I installed CGW pro package in my CZ-75D PCR. The decocker models are considered the hardest to do, and while some of it was challenging it was entirely doable with patience and time. I did it because I wanted the results but I also wanted to do the work as a way to learn the platform.

My suggestion is to purchase two or three extra CGW trigger return springs and the little teeny weeny spring on the right side of the fire control group, that works on the lifter for the firing pin block. Both of these have a habit of flying off into never never land. They're cheap and you'll thank me later.
My PCR has their spring kit, hammer, firing pin, barrel bushing and Holosun red dot sight from CGW. All good stuff.

I am a LE armorer for Glock, 1911/2011, AR-15, Rem 870-1100 and S&W revolvers so I have some experience with gun-tinkering, but I am not a gunsmith by any stretch.

I own 5 CZ pistols (With a 6th snd 7th on the way) and all but my Shadow 2 have the CGW enhanced firing pin, the 13# hammer spring, the lighter trigger spring, the lighter safety plunger spring and the better roll pin/floating trigger pin upgrades. (None have sear, hammer or trigger replacements.)

The first one (SP-01) was a grizzly, as I did not know how to lift the trigger up to use the slave-pin to hold the trigger return spring in place. That took me about 90 minutes, much spent tracking the trigger return spring down after it flew away several times.

The second (75 Decocker Compact) was a bit easier, but I still did the trigger spring the hard way. The third one (a 97B .45) I learned how to pull the trigger up out of the frame, and it was a snap. The fourth (75BD) took me under 30 minutes total, and this because I took my time.

When I pick up my P-01 this week it will get the kit, and the 2025 RAMI will be home before Christmas and it will get some CGW love, too.

You will need a phillips screwdriver for the grips, a 5/32 roll pin punch, a bench block (or 2x4 with a hole in it to drive pins into) a gunsmith hammer and a phone to watch the videos on You Tube as they step by step walk you through it.

Be patient, use no violence on the pins and you will be just fine.

Let us know how it turns out. (My triggers are all amazing now! )

Stay safe.

I got the pro kit for mine. Watched the video’s on how. Figured I could get it, but not without a few curse words. So I dropped it off. I don’t work on cars for a living. I do computer networks. Very unique high end networking and travel all over. I figured I would let an expert do the job this time around.

whisler said:

My biggest problem with my 75B is that I dislike the trigger curvature, so a trigger change is definitely planned. I am undecided on how far to go with it beyond that. I would love to do the pro package but that seems much more complicated, not to mention expensive. I have a friend who is quite skilled who may be prevailed upon to help me out. all suggestions are appreciated.

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dh1633pm said:

I got the pro kit for mine. Watched the video’s on how. Figured I could get it, but not without a few curse words. So I dropped it off. I don’t work on cars for a living. I do computer networks. Very unique high end networking and travel all over. I figured I would let an expert do the job this time around.

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The trigger reach can be a bit much in DA mode, especially at factory trigger pull wright, so a swap makes sense for many folks. I have not done that so I can’t give an honest opinion on how hard it may be on a CZ. (On a Glock its a piece of cake.)

With just the kit I mentioned I have trigger pull weights like these:

SP-01:


75BD Compact :


There is juuuust a hint of take up, so they’re not as crisp as a 1911 but they’re darn smoooth.

Stay safe.

+1 vote for NOT doing it yourself.

I had a P01 (decocker) and I could not get the sear cage back in by myself. I can't speak to the manual safety or Omega versions.

lamelogin said:

+1 vote for NOT doing it yourself.

I had a P01 (decocker) and I could not get the sear cage back in by myself. I can't speak to the manual safety or Omega versions.

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The sear parts are a pain, that is a fact!

Thats why I didn’t fiddle with those parts. My local ‘smith charges $200 bucks to install the full spring, hammer-trigger-and sear kit, (plus parts!). So, I did what I could and am happy with the results.

Stay safe.