Blackhawk tight cylinder?

T

Throwbackguy

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Feb 25, 2022
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Got a question fer the EXPERIENCED (heh) crowd regarding a ‘new to me’ SA:

Have a stainless 4.62 NM BH in .357; and I’m havin a devil of a time with ejecting spent casings. Whether 38 or 357, I’m swearing to myself that the cylinders aren’t quite lathed out juuuust enough. The ejector SEEMS long enough (the other BH and Vaqs that I have have longer barrels…), approx 1cm out the back; but sometimes the brass is so locked in after expanding I have to roll the cylinder out and bang out the shells. This could be the reason someone traded this thing in; but of course, it’s become my New Bestest Friend at the range, and I’m loathe to part with it.

Aside from sending it back to Ruger (which I’ve thought about…), I’m guessing that chamfering the edges would do the trick; anyone have recommendations fer machinists they’ve worked with on SAs before? Or, experienced this problem?
 
I also own a BH in S/S with 7 1/2 barrel in 38/357. How does the cyl load? Mine does not drop out by gravety but extract with NO effort. The bores might just be on the tight side. If they load with no effort and just extract hard a little polishing with some Flitz should do the trick.
 
First thing is definitely a good cleaning. Then maybe a light polishing. Start with the easiest/cheapest solution before you jump all the way to a machinist.
I have a Single Six that came to me with very tight chambers. After cleaning and polishing and checking the chambers with a set of pin gauges, I ended up ordering a chamber reamer from Brownells and solved the problem.
Pin gauge set and reamer were still cheaper than sending it to a GS, and now I have those tools for future use.
 
As already said, a good cleaning. Get an old .40cal brush and really scrub those chambers. That'll fix most every sticky .357 chamber I've seen.

If that don't do it. Get you a FINISH reamer from Brownells along with a chamber hone. Use much oil and go slow. If you want the most accuracy you can get without a gunsmith, get you a "throating cutter" and lap as well as a muzzel chamfer tool.

Research trigger jobs, learn all you can. You'll have a great gun once you're done.
 
Thank you for the advice. I'll try and narrow down with some answers:

-Using store-bought new ammo, all brass casings
-Unfired ammo slides/falls right into cylinders just fine, no hangups. Cylinder bore appears smooth through its length. Either 38 or 357, seats properly without needing to be 'pressed' into place.
-I clean things (especially new things) after every range trip; includes brass brushing w/CLP. No apparent gunk to gum up the works.
-The tightness SEEMS to be in the initial 5 to 10-ish mm of the rear of the cylinder; all shells begin to eject, then bind right up about halfway out. No telltale obvious scrape marks to the shells; it's as if they're being squeezed (I realize they've expanded after firing). And, once I've gotten the shells out, the next batch just falls right in.

Tinman357, thanks - I'm considering a finish reamer; yeah, I can add it to my ever-expanding tool set... and I've plenty of other 38/357s in the collection, should they need love later.
 
Just remember, any metal removed cannot be replaced. Have you considered contacting Ruger's tech dept and pick their brain. Cyl. might be bored with a waist in the center.
 
I bought a chamber hone to clean up .22 rimfire cylinders. This worked so well I bought one for .357 mag and honed my 66-1 that had two impossible-to-eject chambers in the cylinder. I removed the cylinder, put the hone in the drill press at slowest speed, used plenty of cutting oil and went slow. Now the guns all work so much better than before.

5997805B-2824-4307-93BE-FBE47AFA6293.jpeg

Stay safe.
 
What do the ejected cases look like? Any obvious rings or scratches?

Could there be erosion in the chambers from the previous owner shooting .38s in a .357 causing the problem?

edit:

I re-read the OP, see that it happens with.38 brass also. But I’d still inspect the brass for signs that might tell you where it’s hanging up. Any difference in ejection effort from one chamber to another?
 
Last edited:
Before spending money and effort I would pull the cylinder and put it into a small container (medicine bottle, Rubbermaid container, small 8 ounce can, etc) then fill the container with CLP and let the cylinder sit for 24 hours. I would then use a stiff brush in the chambers and clean it. I would then take it and shoot the same ammo. If the sticking still occurs call Ruger. Let them have a whack at it before spending money on it.

Ruger CS
(336) 949-5200
 
So after some ANGRY cleaning with a slighly oversized brass brush (got rid of all remaining crud), a friend at the LGS and I noted very, very slight toolmarks in a couple of cylinders: slight ‘scallops’ that may be impeding ejection once things heat up a little. Maybe one of the last-in-line prior to a tool change, possibly; at the finishing stage. I’m gonna hold off on home reaming of the cylinders, and send back to Ruger once I get out of my honeymoon phase. I know I was hesitant about returning it, but I’ve had very good luck with prior encountersin the Service Dept there. Thanks fer all the recommendations.
 
Throwbackguy said:
Thank you for the advice. I'll try and narrow down with some answers:

-Using store-bought new ammo, all brass casings
-Unfired ammo slides/falls right into cylinders just fine, no hangups. Cylinder bore appears smooth through its length. Either 38 or 357, seats properly without needing to be 'pressed' into place.
-I clean things (especially new things) after every range trip; includes brass brushing w/CLP. No apparent gunk to gum up the works.
-The tightness SEEMS to be in the initial 5 to 10-ish mm of the rear of the cylinder; all shells begin to eject, then bind right up about halfway out. No telltale obvious scrape marks to the shells; it's as if they're being squeezed (I realize they've expanded after firing). And, once I've gotten the shells out, the next batch just falls right in.

Tinman357, thanks - I'm considering a finish reamer; yeah, I can add it to my ever-expanding tool set... and I've plenty of other 38/357s in the collection, should they need love later.
Click to expand...
What's the brand of the ammo? Are the primers coming out flattened? Let's try to eliminate the variable of bad ammo before the jury comes back and says the Blackhawk is guilty.

ETA: Nvr mind, saw your last comment below.

Throwbackguy said:
So after some ANGRY cleaning with a slighly oversized brass brush (got rid of all remaining crud), a friend at the LGS and I noted very, very slight toolmarks in a couple of cylinders: slight ‘scallops’ that may be impeding ejection once things heat up a little. Maybe one of the last-in-line prior to a tool change, possibly; at the finishing stage. I’m gonna hold off on home reaming of the cylinders, and send back to Ruger once I get out of my honeymoon phase. I know I was hesitant about returning it, but I’ve had very good luck with prior encountersin the Service Dept there. Thanks fer all the recommendations.
Click to expand...
Since it's a Blackhawk that means it's probably being sent back to Newport, NH, which isn't Prescott where all the Wranglers are being sent back to have nothing done to them service wise.

This should be a quick turnaround and satisfactory fix, but Ruger CS is getting very questionable these days, so when it comes back do a good inspection on that cylinder.
 
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OK!! Here is what RUGER told me when I called RUGER about two cylinders that I had to use a wooden dowel and beat the cases out on my BH 30 Carbine cylinder. They told me to go to the Auto Parts store and buy a Valve laping kit, 280 grit and 180 grit. Put a bore mop in a drill and start with the 180 grit and then finish with 280 grit, if at first they still stick after firing, do it again at home until they fall free from the cylinder "after firing" with a little help with the ejector rod. That is what they said they do when they get a BH back because of a couple of tight cylinders. It worked for me and I hope it works for you. My BH is Blued in .30 Carbine, but I don't think is makes a difference. Just a thought if you want to fix it yourself. Just remember, A LITTLE AT A TIME!!!
 
Throwbackguy said:
So after some ANGRY cleaning with a slighly oversized brass brush (got rid of all remaining crud), a friend at the LGS and I noted very, very slight toolmarks in a couple of cylinders: slight ‘scallops’ that may be impeding ejection once things heat up a little. Maybe one of the last-in-line prior to a tool change, possibly; at the finishing stage. I’m gonna hold off on home reaming of the cylinders, and send back to Ruger once I get out of my honeymoon phase. I know I was hesitant about returning it, but I’ve had very good luck with prior encountersin the Service Dept there. Thanks fer all the recommendations.
Click to expand...

Please let us know how things turn out. :cool:
 
74man said:
OK!! Here is what RUGER told me when I called RUGER about two cylinders that I had to use a wooden dowel and beat the cases out on my BH 30 Carbine cylinder. They told me to go to the Auto Parts store and buy a Valve laping kit, 280 grit and 180 grit. Put a bore mop in a drill and start with the 180 grit and then finish with 280 grit, if at first they still stick after firing, do it again at home until they fall free from the cylinder "after firing" with a little help with the ejector rod. That is what they said they do when they get a BH back because of a couple of tight cylinders. It worked for me and I hope it works for you. My BH is Blued in .30 Carbine, but I don't think is makes a difference. Just a thought if you want to fix it yourself. Just remember, A LITTLE AT A TIME!!!
Click to expand...

I polished the cylinders on my 41 mag using that method and the problem of sticky extraction went away with no ill effects.
 
I have used Mothers wheel polish on a bore mop, chucked into an electric hand drill to clean up some sticky revolver cylinders...works well...and cheaply done. I would imagine the valve lapping compound would likely be quicker.
 
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