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SA 1911 Ultra Compact -- 3 problems.

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Sep 25, 2006
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Hey fella's, Im new to the forum and I need some help diagnosing a couple of problems with my recent purchase. I have read the sticky post by 1911 Tuner but I could use some clarification.

SA 1911 Ultra Compact shooting 230gr FMJ round nose( Winchester, I believe )
I ran about 10 mags of ammo through it this past weekend.

First issue: The slide locks open with ammo in the mag.
Insert mag...pull slide = locks open most of the time
fire 1st round = locks always
rest of clip = sometimes locks open
I noticed that it seemed to lock open more often when shooting two-handed as opposed to one handed.
I looked to see if the rounds are pushing on the slide lock pin but it's hard to tell...any tricks to doing this? Should I use a feeler guage to check for clearance? If so, how much??

Second issue: Last round in mag (6 roung mag-SA NM blue) always jams nose up. Spring is fairly strong compared to other mags I have owned. the bullet stops with the nose caught on the top leading edge of the barrel throat with a slight overhang of the slide port covering the nose. This jam only happens on the last round. The gun has not jammed on any other rounds so far. Eject the mag and round pops out onto the ground.

Third issue: Ejector spits brass at my eyeballs. Yes, there are marks on the front edge of the ejection port- what does this mean?. OK, radius the bottom corner of the ejector...radius the end that butts up to the shell casing or radius the bottom of the face that catch's the lip of the round? Any pics of how it should look???

I purchased this gun used but in A+ shape, it showed very little wear inside and flawless outside. I have no idea on how many rounds have been through it but just looking at the internals I don't think very many.

Im not a super-technical gun guy but I do have machine shop experience so I am comfortable working on some of the minor stuff. Im thinking of changing the recoil spring and adding a radius to the ejector. Also, maybe try a Wilson stainless mag.

I appreciate any help you can give.

Thanks.
 
First off, welcome. Glad you're here.

Ok, so your troubles...

I like to check slide stop clearance by loading one round in a magazine and inserting it into a stripped gun with the slide stop installed. Watch the slide stop carefully for movement. You can also look for a scratch on the bullet and some copper build up on the slide stop lug.

You may have a problem with your plunger. I remember a gun that had a bullet rub problem locking maybe three or four times in a session, but never as frequently as yours does. Is the plunger tube loose? Is the plunger pin damaged (flat-spotted, bent, etc.). If you're not getting a rub and the plunger is functional, a little dimple on the end of the slide stop (where the plunger pin hits it) may be the order of the day.

Issue two... Sounds like the last round is "jumping the gun." You might try a different magazine. When mine does that, it's a weak mag spring. When my brother's gun did the same thing, it was a bad follower. Last round feed issues are almost always one of the two.

As for your extraction issue... There's a handy picture floating around somewhere that shows just what to do to an extractor. I'll try to find it and get back to you.

Edit: Bingo!
 

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Problems

First issue:

Locking that often suggests that maybe somebody installed a .38 Super or 9mm slidestop in the gun. Look for contact between the lug and the bullet ogive.

Second issue:

Classic Bolt-Over base misfeed. The slide is literally outrunning the magazine.
Mag spring is the usual culprit, but the fast slide/uber-stiff recoil spring and short runup can be major players, especially in the shorter guns.

Third issue:

These are among the hardest to diagnose long-distance, but I'll give it a shot.

Most likely what is happening is that the case is ejecting at 3 O'clock, or trying to eject even lower...bouncing off the top of the port wall and into the
top edge of the port while the slide is moving...which bats it straight back into your face.

The extractor's release point and angle could be part of it. The ejector could be part of it. Over the last 2-3 years, I've noticed that a good many Springfields have extractor problems and ejectors that are a little out of spec...and they're head-shooters like yours, and oddly enough...it seems to happen with the GI Mil Specs more often than any other model. So far, the only reliable cure has been to replace both, and to tweak and tune the extractor. Te picture that Azrael posted is a good guideline, but some of the angles and dimensions shown are a bit exagerated. Sneak up on'em a little at a time.
 
Thanks a million guys,

So, the first thing I should do is break out my dremel for some ramp work, right ???:what:

Just Kidding!!!:D

I'll pay special attention to your suggestions. Are any of them reccommended done only by professionals???

Any good books or articles that could aid me in my tinkering? I usually let my brother handle any weapon issues because he's the real gun nut in our family. I almost hate to go to him with this, because he warned me about purchasing a shortened 1911. He doesn't understand that I'm willing to tinker with one in order to get what I wanted. As far as I see it, this way gives me a chance to aquire an in-depth knowledge of my weapon, and if I can't get it squared away I'll sell it.

I'll try to get started on it over the next few week's. I'm sure I'll be asking for your help again. I'll try to post some pics of the problem areas soon.

Again thanks, all of your help is greatly appreciated.

Mike.
 
Kuhnhausen's books are excellent. The basics are well covered. I've been able to fix a number of problems quickly and easily with those books. Book one is the teardown and buildup like a Chilton guide. Book two is more into building raceguns. I don't know enough to say if book two is any good, but Kuhnhausen seems to know his stuff pretty well, so it's probably great.

The m1911.org forum is a good place to look, too. There are technical articles, as well as discussion groups. Poke through the gunsmithing forum and you'll find a wealth of information on all sorts of technical issues. When Kuhnhausen doesn't cover it (or I don't know enough to realize that he does), poking around that forum will usually give me an answer quickly.

Oh, and be careful joking about a dremel. Tuner will send a collie to pee on you. Seriously. :neener:
 
I almost hate to go to him with this, because he warned me about purchasing a shortened 1911. He doesn't understand that I'm willing to tinker with one in order to get what I wanted.

Well you're going to get a lot of opportunity to tinker. These ultra-short pistols even give professional 'smiths fits. The shortened slide moves at much higher velocity, the cartridge going into the chamber feeds at a steeper angle, the run-up to the cartridge base is shorter, and since the recoil spring tunnel is shorter you have to work with a Micky Mouse recoil spring arrangement. That means that every adjustment is critical, and any margin for reliability is close to zip.

I think your brother was both wise and right, but have at it anyway. :evil: :neener:
 
I monkey'd with the slidestop pin lastnight. I took the slide off and slid a mag in to check the clearance with rounds in the mag. I did see a little copper on the peak of the slidestop so I brought it down about .010 trying to maintain the correct angles. It made no difference. I did notice that if I pull the slide at a controlled slower speed it wouldn't lock open but pulling it back quickly locked it open with maybe...maybe 1/16 of the catch making it up into the notch on the slide.

Could it be an inertia problem?? If so, how do you correct that?? Like I said earlier, I'm going to try a diferent spring and may try a new slidestop pin.

Thanks again,

Mike
 
Remove the safety lock (manual safety) and pull the plunger backwards so there is no pressure on the slide lock. Then see if the slide lock works any better when you move the slide slowly. It may be that the plunger is camming the slide stop down, while the magazine folower is trying to push it up.

As I said you'll get to tinker... :evil:
 
Old Fuff, Thanks but I think you misunderstood what I meant(probobly the way I worded it...sorry!). The problem isn't the gun NOT locking open, it's that it locks open when chambering and shooting. Working the slide slowly feeds the round as designed. I may try to cut a few thousandths on a slant or cam in order to help the plunger keep the slidestop down until the follower pushes it up. I'll probobly end up purchasing a new slidestope before long.:p

As for the tinkering...I get your point, but I'm kinda enjoying it for now:eek:

Thanks for the input.
 
Well, I'm gonna' trade my S/A Ultra Compact off for a mil-spec or just sell it outright. I'm kinda tired of messin' with it. When it works, it works great. But sometimes it just won't work right. :cuss:
 
Locked Up

Firefighter...Entirely possible that the slidestop is bouncing into engagement under inertia. If it's barely engaging the corner of the stop/notch..that's probably it.

Several things can play into that. Angle at the rear of the stop that helps it move up instead of holding it down. (Filing an angle into the rear will probably make it worse.)Weak plunger spring. Worn pin. Incorrect pin length.
Incorrect pin depth caused by the stop shoulder in the tube being machined out of spec. Bullet nose may be nudging the lug lightly. Any of these things can contribute to it...or any combination of the above.

Suspect the slidestop itself first. Try one out of another gun. Next is the plunger spring. Remove the spring and stretch it at the offset. If it stops malfunctioning, get another plunger assembly. The stock Colt assembly available from Brownells for about 6 bucks is very good.

If all else fails...the Wilson Bulletproof slidestop has a shelf machined into it that works with the plunger to prevent premature slidelock. It works so well that it ueually requires a little light adjustment so that it will lock on empty.
Pricey at about 45 bucks, but is machined from barstock and the few that I've used have lived long under hard use.
 
Well....I had nothing to do tonight, so I decided to modify the slidestop. I took a shade off of the top of the catch so it doesnt ride so close to the slide. I also nibbled a small relief that the plunger will rest in and not allow the pin to pop up until it is pushed by the mag. It seems to have worked, I can yank the slide fairly quickly now with no hang-up. The true test will be to throw some rounds thru it this weekend. If it still hangs I may order that bullet proof stop.

Well, it looks like I have a full weekend of fun comming up...dove season opens on Sat, and I get to tinker with my pistola:D :D awesome!!!!

I will keep you posted.

Thanks again.


Here are a couple pics of my new piece.......piece of what?? will be determined later.
 

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Well, I took my gun for a workout this afternoon and I'm glad to report that it was a good outing. My handywork seems to have alleviated my problems, I shot about a hundred rounds of several varieties: garbage fmj's, a couple different makes of hollow points, and it even cycled the nasty Winchester brass enclosed base rounds that my other 1911 refused to swallow. The gun operated very well today.

Now, with that said let me pick your brains about the accuracy. This thing will not put a round where it's aimed. I wants to shoot about a foot and a half to two feet low and slightly(about 5 inches)left most of the time but will scatter holes allover the target at ranges of 10-20 yards. I know I'm not the best hot in the world but I definately shoot better than that, even with a short barrel. Could it be that the barrel is just sorry or may it be some other issue?? It has a cone shaped barrel that looks to be in decent shape. Are there any other areas besides the sights that I may need to pay attention too??


Thanks again for all of your help,

mike
 
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