M1A Advice

Buy the cheaper one, then check around. Can get a new walnut M14 stock and handguard for fairly cheap. Then you have both stocks, essentially now own both rifles.

Take a look at the 'loaded' model. For an extra $200 you get a match barrel, match sights and a match trigger. You couldn't add those to a standard rifle for anything close.

You can also look around for used. There are two nice used SA statdard here in town, one for $900 and one for $1000.

I'd go w/ the loaded M1a.

Get the standard, then for about $600 send back to SA and have the experts there upgrade to NM level. Then you will have something to keep for life and a family heirloom

Buy a standard with a USGI stock if you can find one, then have a gunsmith familiar with M14s upgrade the rifle.
Buy and excellent condition USGI fiberglass stock from dear old Fred for hunting and knocking around with the rifle and keep the walnut wood for display.

Forget doing the whole National Match set-up unless you are planning to shoot in a National Match or at the Camp Perry Springfield M1A shoot.
A tight gas cylinder assembly, good tight sights, nothing touching or binding where it shouldn't be, and a decent trigger group will get you shooting to satisfaction.
As a Kudo to Springfield Inc. I haven't seen anything come out of there that would be considered a truely bad barrel, the barrels they are using are quite good.
I know people are going to say the investment cast parts Springfield Inc. uses on their current rifles are just as good a forged USGI parts and all I am going to say is No, they aren't with the exception of the operating rod.

Iv'e wondered this myself and 99% of the M1A owners iv'e talked to said to get the loaded model. Match grade trigger, sights etc. So now I know what to do with my spare $1,500...

Buy the cheapest one, then leave it as is. It doesn't need any "upgrades." The M14/M1A is a rugged battle rifle.

Make sure you check out m14forum.com and only buy your mags from 44mag.com.

Take a look at the 'loaded' model. For an extra $200 you get a match barrel, match sights and a match trigger. You couldn't add those to a standard rifle for anything close.

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+1 for the loaded model. It's worth the extra money. I'd also get the synthetic stock, (less likley to warp over time), and the Carbon barrel, (carbon will didipate heat faster than Stainless steel).

If you can Get the QD stud factory installed it's another $45 to accept the Harris bipod.

I see most are saying go with the loaded, you have the budget an I say why not. A standard will not disappoint you by any stretch, they are great rifles. But if you have the cash go ahead and get the loaded.

getting a Standard Loaded which I'm pretty sure comes with glass bedding from the factory

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Nope. Glass bedding begins with the NM series. Even so, you can have it done to any rifle by your local gunsmith.

The "loaded" models do come with some "national match" components. They are just add-ons. They are NOT bedded nor tuned to NM standards. If your looking for a "plinker" save yourself about $1200 and go get an Ak or SKS thing. Don't kid yourselves guys, a "loaded" M1A is NOT a National Match M1A and the difference when shooting is evident. The difference is consistantly hitting a gallon water jug and 600 yrds. or just consistantly just missing a gallon water jug at 600 yrds.

My 'loaded' is a solid 1 MOA shooter. No better, but it does an honest MOA with match loads. However, I'll confess that it has a few mods over the factory loaded: Unitized gas system, Rader trigger, Sadlak pring guide and a few others. That being said, when it was still pretty much standard, I could ring the 10 inch gong at 600 yards. Unless you are match shooting, there's no reason to buy a NM or supermatch. For that matter, and AR-10T will outshoot and M1A for a lot less money.

The one thing I don't like about the loaded, or the other M1A variants besides the standard is weight. The heavy barrels add weight. If you can live with 2-3 MOA, the standard will be fine. I personally think the trigger and sights make the loaded worth while. As noted, if you want sub MOA accuracy in a semi-auto, your money is better spent on an AR. The old M1A/M14 just doesn't have what it takes to compete, which is why ARs totally dominate service rifle matches.

But I love my M1A - warts and all.

M14 type rifles are like M1 Garands and AR15 rifles.
They are THE military self loading battle standards for American servicemen and all three have won Gold at the Matches more than once.

It took me twenty years but I finally went over to AR rifles for serious target shooting in 2000.
Just the same I am keeping my M1 and M1A type rifles for the pure pleasure of ownership.

I understand why the guys are suggesting buying a loaded but I am a gunsmith.
Like a custom mechanic, I can't look at a factory production model and leave it as-is, they all cry out for some tender loving improvements!

all rifles are good - just dont spend $1000 on a lousy sig p226. not when there are so many <500 rounds used sigs on the market hovering at about 550$. i love sigs, own six of them, but there is no way in hell im ever paying 1K for a gun like that. in my opinion sigs should be selling new for about $650, and used $450.

kev

by the way - how would an AR in 308 compare to an M1A, all costs being equal? i know the 223 ar has the m1a beat, but what about in 308?

I got the Loaded with the good barrel, but it's blued not the stainless steel. The NM sights are worthwhile in my opinion, and are better at over 400 yards. The NM sights have half the increments of the regular sights, and the front sight post is smaller. At 400 yards the regular sights will cover completely a man sized target and the most elevation you will be able to change is 1/2 MOA on elevation. The loaded model usually has coupons to buy accesories at lower prices and my SA scope and 3rd generation base were only $100, although it took quite awhile for Springfield to fill the order. M-14 stocks aren't that expensive and usually clean up well, if you have to have the wood stock. You will hear stories about M1-A's being crap, but don't beleive them. The investment cast receiver is more than adequately strong and all the SA made parts are guaranteed for life. The few failures that do occur usually result in milspec parts being substituted, and that is something you can do yourself, if you have the inclination. M-14 parts just aren;t plentiful enough for Springfield to be able to use surplus parts to meet production. Besides Clinton sold and destroyed not a few M-14's. LRB makes milspec M-14's, if you want one, but expect to pay $5-800 more. Fulton Amrory nas a good reputation, but I've never had a problem with my M1-A, so I can;t say one way or the other. Norinco's had bolt problems, nut otherwise, if you change out the bolt work just fine. A company called Armscorp also made M14's in semiauto but I have no experience with that brand either.

I own several.

Get the standard.

Replace the extractor with a USGI one.

Shim the gas system.

Get a synthetic stock.

Get a NM trigger job.

Get a NM oprod spring guide.

Then shoot the hell out of it.

silverlance

An AR-10 or simlar rifle from DPMS (I can't recommend the SR-25 for many reasons) will typically be a more accurate rifle than a comparable M1A/M14. It's intrinisic to the weapon thanks to the gas system and lack of bedding issues. I've owned several M1A/M14 type rifles, as well as an SR-25 and two AR-10s. The Ar-10 also is a much better platform for mounting optics, with an integrated Picatinny rail and a stock that doesn't require some sort of cheek piece to use a scope.

An AR-10T, easily capable of 1/2 MOA accuracy or better, can be had NIB for around $1700, about the same as a NM if you shop around. With handloads, I could get my AR to shoot 1/4 MOA and used it in 1000 yard shoots.

But the AR lacks the 'soul' of the M1A, and I don't think it is a reliable - definitely not as rugged.

My next semi-auto is going to be a dedicated LR precision gun, probably a DPMS LR-260.

I'm in the camp that feels buying a match grade M1A is a waste unless you are either going to scope the rifle and build a long distance precision rifle, or if you are doing serious match shooting.

When you get into match M1As they are more difficult to properly maintain since you don't want to disassemble the rifle unless you have to because of the bedding. A good M1A with a GI synthetic stock that provides tight lock-up, unitized gas system, and trigger job, is really all you need for a 1.5 MOA or better shooter.

Look at the Crazy Horse M14 rifles the military is buying. They use the GI fiberglass stock, and shoot perfectly well. Some people recommend stiffening the forend of the fiberglass stocks to keep them from flexing. I have one glass stock that has been stiffened and one that has not. I haven't found that it makes any difference unless you are slinging up real tight like for match shooting.

I'm also a believer in buying an M1A with original GI components. In particular, I don't find the reproduction rear sight assemblies to be of good enough quality.

Regarding the M1A vs. AR-10, the theoretical edge that the AR-10 has in accuracy is offset by its spotty reliability in my opinion.

No pillar bedding in an M1a. The trigger assembly hold the action in the stock. The problem is the fit is often sloppy, and glass bedding ensures a perfect fit. You can get good results if you are lucky enough to have a tight GI fiberglass stock.

My M1a is scopes and serves as a general purpose 600 yard and under rifle. It would probably fit the definition of a DMR. I'm taking it deer hunting this fall, where shots range from 50-500 yards with the bulk being 250-350.

Those who are sensitive to bright colors beware. I painted my spare stock blaze orange just to be different.



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