Lubricating Oils

On this topic, what about ATF? Ive heard it can have a usage in a gun, but not too sure if its used as a lube (maybe not on a bearing surface) or a protectant. Keep in mind, I know what Ed's red is. This question is regarding ATF as a lube, not a component of an AWESOME cleaner.

CorrosionX!!!!!!!!!
..and you won't find better people!

http://corrosionxproducts.com/?gclid=CP3NtPn1nJUCFQykagod0AShOg

CRITGIT

ATF

About the biggest additive in ATF oil is red dye.
CC

CLP works for me.

On a side note, I have been using CLP for a long time on my milsurps. I did a quick check on them the other day and found that there was a bit of rust in my Mauser 98k barrel! I have not fired corrosive ammo for almost a year (I reload now) and cleaned it many many times since then. I usually clean this rifle after every range session and did after the last one

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Puzzling, I was about to tell you that you needed to clean your bore out with water, to dissolve the corrosive fouling. But you say the last you used corrosive was a year ago, and since then you have fired it a number of times with your reloads. That should have flushed out any residue a long time ago.

Still, it is entirely possible that some of those primer salts were coated over with copper fouling. Small possibility. Very small possibility.

After shooting corrosive I have cleaned my mil surplus rifles with hot soapy water in a pan, pumping the water up and down the barrel with a patch . It is a lot more work than this method, http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu13.htm, but I have never had any rust after cleaning.

In case you did not know, CLP was not designed to dissolve corrosive fouling. And it is not meant to provide long term protection against corrosion. If you want to look at the spec for CLP ( Mil PRF 63460) click on the URL and open REV E. http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksear...t_number=31359

I use a synthetic oil on the moving parts of Mil spec weapons. Mobil 1 made my CAR 15 (when I had to use an AR) run much better and more reliable than BreakFree CLP.

I haven't been a fan of BreakFree CLP since I saw it fail miserably during a test at the 93 Shot Show. The test was between FP10 (original formula) and BreakFree. After that test I gave all my BreakFree away. It should be noted the FP10 was bought (Shooter Choice IIRC) and the formula changed to make it more "manufacturing Friendly". Of course it's not as good and the original formula. The designer of FP10 has a new product call "Weapon Shield" It as good or better that FP10 ever was.

CrossionX is on the outside of ALL my blued guns. Especially those I hunt with. My only advise to hunters it use it early to let the smell dissipate. I once took a fall with my BLR. My rifle and I hit wet ground. I was incapacitated for over 3 months. When I was able to get to my rifle there was no rust any where on it.

For cleaning the bore it's hard to beat Hoppies #9 or Hoppies bench rest.

AS far as those who say " if it's what the military uses it's good enough for me". Please remember the military uses LOW BID to buy it's products. Also I was under the impression that the military was getting away from BreakFree CLP because of it's failures in the "sand box". I though Militec1 was the new lube?

What everyone needs to remember!
There are 2 types of products we can use on our firearms. Those designed "For Guns" and general purpose items. Most if not all firearm manufactures warranty their guns for the use of "For Guns" products. That means that if you use a brake cleaner, instead of a for gun carbon remover (a $2.00 savings) and you melt the polymer receiver on you gun you are up a creek. (That almost happen to me on my Camp 9 receiver.)

Yes there are many general purpose product out there that can be used. Using GP products on a AK or AR is one thing. Using them on you Brownings ET AL is another.

So buyer / user beware.

PS I still keep a supply of Mobil 1 5/40 on hand.

ATF
About the biggest additive in ATF oil is red dye.
CC

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No other information? Didnt help at all. Does anyone else have any information regarding this as a lube/protectant?

This question is regarding ATF as a lube, not a component of an AWESOME cleaner.

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It's all I've been using for a few months. I'm not seeing any problems, but I don't run my guns very hard.

ATF

It's been a really long time but I remember putting in red dye and using viscosity improver to bring it to specs. I think maybe some have a little rust inhibitor, and antiwear, but very little. There is just not much there other than a base stock, viscosity improver, red dye, and a minimum of rust inhibitor and antiwear. Some formulations dont have any antiwear.
CC

Been using Mobile1 for about a year now for lubing. I use regular solvents for cleaning and mobil1 to lube. Great stuff. I've even found it to do fine for rust prevention.

From some rust testing I did last year. Parkerized clips were stored outside and sprayed with 5% salt water. This is day 21.



ATF is the 3rd from the right. It also didn't clean very well. BSW

^^^^ That's kind of cool.

I read it like this...

1 = CLP
2 = ?
3 = SG?
4 = Mobil 1
5 = Transmission fluid
6 = MGL?
7 = Control (no protectant)

What are 2, 3, and 6?


-T.

From left to right:

CLP- New formula w/no teflon
LSA- German manufacture form the 70's, tin was opened last year
Swiss Rifle grease- came with Swiss 30 cal rifle cleaning kit
Mobil 1- 10-50wt
Dextron ATF
Machine Gunner's Lube- Free sample I aquired with some Larue product
Control- All the test clips were cleaned with acetone and isopropal alcohol before applying the lube

"A light coating of motor oil should be fine to shoot on in a barrel. I've done it a lot."

Oil of any kind in a gun bore rarely harms anything, directly. Yeah, if it's heavy it will raise pressures a bit but not drasticly, IMHO. BUT, any such oil, even a wet layer of Hoppes 9, WILL cause the first two-three shots to hit outside the group.

I was told by a trusted rifle engineer (Mike Walker, formally of Reminton and developer of the 700/40x series of rifles) that if we clean a bore with a wet patch of Hoppes before shooting, and then run two or three DRY patches through, the first shot will usually strike in the group. I've found him to be correct.

ATF is a great LIGHT gun oil. I use it for short term - maybe a year - rust protection of any iron/steel surface. ATF is a good light lube for revolver actions and rifle triggers because it is a high penetrating oil that's non-drying (well, mostly, any liquid will eventually evaporate) and is non-gumming when it does.

Mobil 1 is very good for lubing auto-actions in rifles and handguns or for riding lawn mowers, etc. I keep a squirt can full in my shop. It's inexpensive in the quanities I use it, it provides good lubing in tight fits, good adhesion to the metal and is fairly resistant to water. Any dried residue (gum) can easily be cleaned with most solvents, including ATF.

The government does buy from the low bidder but the low bidder doesn't get to choose what it will sell for that low bid. Any item, including any gun care product has to meet preset MIL standards, and they ain't low standards!

I've been using LPS which works very well for me. No automatics, so I can't speak to that, but as a general wipe-down, and after cleaning, rust preventative lubricant it's great. I use LPS-1 which is a greaseless lube, but they also have LPS-2 (contains oil), as well as other products such as a corrosion inhibitor for long term storage. Just depends on what your need is. Only problem is they're generally hard to find. Not something you'd see on the shelf of the gun store or even Wal-Mart. I've got to go to a Grainger supply store to get it. IMHO though it's worth it.

I've been using LPS which works very well for me. No automatics, so I can't speak to that, but as a general wipe-down, and after cleaning, rust preventative lubricant it's great. I use LPS-1 which is a greaseless lube, but they also have LPS-2 (contains oil), as well as other products such as a corrosion inhibitor for long term storage. Just depends on what your need is. Only problem is they're generally hard to find. Not something you'd see on the shelf of the gun store or even Wal-Mart. I've got to go to a Grainger supply store to get it. IMHO though it's worth it.

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LPS1 LPS2 and LPS3 are all excellent products for eveything from a dry lube application to a heavy rust inhibitor!
I've seen it at OSH lately! They don't give it away however!

CRITGIT

LPS1 LPS2 and LPS3 are all excellent products for eveything from a dry lube application to a heavy rust inhibitor!
I've seen it at OSH lately! They don't give it away however!

CRITGIT

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What is OSH? I used to use LPS growing up working around the farm.

Strictly for lubrication, Mobil 1 Synthetic is excellent.

Grease is even better for certain areas of the firearm. Grease is good. Stays where you put it and doesn't evaporate or burn off the way most oils do.

But, I still stick to Breakfree LP (no C) - my favorite, thicker than CLP. I'd like to try Breakfree Collector. I also have CLP and it works fine. The advantage of quality gun oil like Breakfree is that it has teflon in it. As a result, the metal gets slick from repeated use of this oil. If it burns off or evaporates, the metal is not bare or dry causing friction. Not as good as being wet, but not bare either.

I did my own salt-spray testing. Breakfree LP far and above completely dominated the test when it came to corrosion resistance. I was impressed, and few things impress me. That stuff WORKS.

Since it lubes just fine, and it has superior corrosion resistance -- why bother with anything else? Mobil 1 was in my test, and it failed for corrosion resistance. However, it was above many other "gun oils" ..yes in quotes because I'm not sure they can even deserve to be called gun oil. There's a lot of garbage out there.

Where Mobil 1 may be useful is when one is doing a lot of heavy blasting with AR's and other firearms. Keep them wet and running. That saves money over using the gun oils which are significantly more expensive for the same quantity. That approach can only be justified for a high volume frequent shooter. Then again, one can always buy the large spray bottle of CLP and hose down parts with that and save money over the smaller bottles. All depends on what a person finds to be "expensive" and how much they value the savings.

I would not store ANY firearm without it being lubed with a proper oil that blocks or resists corrosion. I live in a humid climate. It is a concern. I have never had not even one tiny spec of rust on any part of any firearm ever. I have always made sure that all metal surfaces receive a coating of LP. Doesn't matter if it is a frequently used firearm, or one that sits in the safe for 2 years. Nothing has rusted.


That is why I don't bother with Mobil 1 or any automotive engine oils. The firearms of past eras suffered from more rust than modern era firearms. Steel has improved as has finishes. But so have oils. Quality modern gun oils really do work. Why not take advantage of them? Most firearms are $500 or more. Not much sense in skimping what amounts to barely cents per application when it comes to oil...

I'm a CLP guy all the way. I heard some stories of SF guy's using motor oil on .50 cals but the ones I know said that's BS. they all used CLP. The enviroment your in plays a role in how and what you lube with and I would think that motor oil in some places would attract alot of crap out of the air. In a civilian enviroment it's probably ok (as a lube) but thats about it. As for the oil in the bore well I have seen Iraqi soldiers take a shoe lace tie a knot in it and dip it in USED motor oil and run it down the bore of AK's to clean the barrel. That was AK's mind you. I believe in CLP and it's never let me down. So use what you like and make it a experiment, let us know how it turns out.

I've also had good luck with the LP verison of CLP. I don't consider the cost of it so high that I need to use motor oil instead.

+4 for CorrosionX

I've been using it for a while now as an all-in-one and it works great. I think it's better than Hoppe's or Shooter's Choice solvents for cleaning.

I am also going to try Eezox when my 16 oz. bottle of CorrosionX finally runs out. Eezox wins hands down on the corrosion protection test, with CorrosionX a close second:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

I've never used CLP, but it's very popular, and from the test results appears to be an excellent product. You have to be realistic in considering our firearms are rarely (if ever) exposed to these extreme testing conditions. But Eezox and CorrosionX are definitely the winners for long term storage.

Rem oil works for me.

Let me throw this in the mix, wheel bearing grease.
Comments please.

Wolfgang2000 said:

I use a synthetic oil on the moving parts of Mil spec weapons. Mobil 1 made my CAR 15 (when I had to use an AR) run much better and more reliable than BreakFree CLP.

I haven't been a fan of BreakFree CLP since I saw it fail miserably during a test at the 93 Shot Show. The test was between FP10 (original formula) and BreakFree. After that test I gave all my BreakFree away. It should be noted the FP10 was bought (Shooter Choice IIRC) and the formula changed to make it more "manufacturing Friendly". Of course it's not as good and the original formula. The designer of FP10 has a new product call "Weapon Shield" It as good or better that FP10 ever was.

CrossionX is on the outside of ALL my blued guns. Especially those I hunt with. My only advise to hunters it use it early to let the smell dissipate. I once took a fall with my BLR. My rifle and I hit wet ground. I was incapacitated for over 3 months. When I was able to get to my rifle there was no rust any where on it.

For cleaning the bore it's hard to beat Hoppies #9 or Hoppies bench rest.

AS far as those who say " if it's what the military uses it's good enough for me". Please remember the military uses LOW BID to buy it's products. Also I was under the impression that the military was getting away from BreakFree CLP because of it's failures in the "sand box". I though Militec1 was the new lube?

What everyone needs to remember!
There are 2 types of products we can use on our firearms. Those designed "For Guns" and general purpose items. Most if not all firearm manufactures warranty their guns for the use of "For Guns" products. That means that if you use a brake cleaner, instead of a for gun carbon remover (a $2.00 savings) and you melt the polymer receiver on you gun you are up a creek. (That almost happen to me on my Camp 9 receiver.)

Yes there are many general purpose product out there that can be used. Using GP products on a AK or AR is one thing. Using them on you Brownings ET AL is another.

So buyer / user beware.

Click to expand...

Excellent post. Personally, I don't subscribe to the Mobil 1 thing, but to each their own. I still have a ton of old original FP-10, so I haven't gotten around to getting Weaponshield yet. I absolutely will though. George Fennell is phenomenal when it comes to what he does.

Also, I too have Corrosion X and know that it is fantastic. But I must confess that I don't use it as I am a big fan of Eezox. No problem with Corrosion X (other than the smell), but Eezox has yet to disappoint (it too has its own smell when newly applied, unfortunately...but it goes away over time). And I should point out that I have no doubt that Weaponshield is every bit as good in corrosion protection as Fennell claims, due to my own tests with the original FP-10...I am just not sure it works as well when it dries as Eezox does. It might...I just didn't test for that.

I use hopps #9 solvant and oil.
BTW ATF is no good for lube,I toasted a chainsaw bar and chain using ATF just because I was out of oil.