Fixing a dremel polish job

When polishing receivers for bluing and not wanting to round edges or corners I use a rubbing compound on a piece of tempered glass. Just smear the compound on the glass, keep the part flat and move it across the glass.

The other possiblity would be to try and buff it out on a large commercial buffer.

I re-finished my SS Delta GC using the glass method but I used 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Mine had the satin finish and I think 600 was about right. You can go up or down in grit to suit your taste. If you're going for drop dead shiny you can go all the way to 3000 grit before you buff with jewelers rouge or what have you. Be prepared for the roll marks to be flattened. It'll all have to be flush before it will cut evenly. You'll be able to see your wavy spots and get some kind of idea how much more you have to take off. The slide will be no problem but you'll have to completely strip the frame including the spring tube. If you have any bead blasted areas tape off your slick areas and have it blasted before you do the shiny work. You need to use brand new medium if you've blasted any carbon steel with it as the carbon particles will imbed in the SS and show up as rust specks the first time it goes without oil on it.
It ended up looking real nice again but realistically if you use one, holster it, lay it down, clean it with a dirty rag, etc it gonna get scratched again just as mine has.

Buffing waves and ripples just gives you shinier waves and ripples.

I just went back and read the OP again and realized the Rossi 971 is a revolver. DUH!!! At any rate, the human eye notices abnormalities. Wherever these waves are located, to make them go away will require them to be the same level as the adjacent material. You can use a small piece of glass and block the areas with it instead of rubbing the gun on the glass. If it's on the barrel you will have to stroke around the circumference, not stroke parrallel to the bore or you will have little flat lines show up when you buff it. Good luck and pateince, patience, patience.

Block sand.
With a very small block crafted from hardwood or aluminum. Possibly start with 400 grit automotive 'wet or dry' paper cut to appropriate width.
Or.......realize its a 3rd rate gun.....and move on.

Have the gun bead blasted it will hide the poor polishing job.

Chalk the botched job up to experience. Now you know to take it easy with the Dremel.

I had the same over zealous need to Dremel one of my revolvers but with far worse results that I'm shamed to admit!

Ok. Good job on the new guns! Cut the plug off the Dremel and we (and they)will all be safer.
Joe

Using a buffer on a revolver is a fine art. S&W used to train polishers for years before they were allowed to touch a revolver. This why professional refinishers charge the prices they do. Bead blast is probably your only option now.

Auto,
Sorry man.
I did not mean it sound snide.
Just factual.
If I'm gonna spend a lot of time on a gun, it's gonna be a gun of recognized quality.
No one would do a 10k paint job on a Hyundai...would they?

No one would do a 10k paint job on a Hyundai...would they?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't but................

Put a buffing wheel on a bench grinder. It works wonders.