Brinle Hardness for cast lead

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glocks rock

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I usually shoot jacketed bullets in my 1911's but have recently gone to Oregon Trail 200 gr. SWC's. I ordered some diff. lead today that is rated at 18 brinle hardness. Will I have a problem with leading with this hardness if I keep the velocities low?
 
That is much harder than needed, especially at low velocities/pressures, but they may work fine. Try em and see. 12 bhn is more than enough for .45 ACP.
 
18 bhn

If you're going for low velocity in your .45 ACP, you want the Bullseye #1, at 12 BHN.

Your order came in too late to ship today, but we could substitute the Bullseye #1's for the IDP #1's (18 BHN) you ordered. Let me know before 0100 Saturday when we finish shipping.

Thanks/Brad

ps - did you read the 'Technical' page I wrote up on our website? I wrote it to try to explain this stuff

pps - you didn't take the 5% High Road Forum discount?
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm new to lead. I've heard great things about Missouri Bullets so I thought I would give them a try. They do have very competitive prices. I didn't know about the discount. Maybe next time.
 
They do have very competitive prices.
For the money they're the best cast bullets I've tried. For that matter, they're at least as good as some of the 'premium' cast bullets I've tried at 4x the cost.
 
Read Brad's "Technical" page & learn. Then read it again.

I shoot his Bullseye #1. Nice shooters with about 6gr Universal (I say about...I forget if my Lee powder measure drops 6.0 or 6.1; either way, max is 6.4, so I'm safe). No leading, minimal soot/smoke, and nice clean holes in my paper 20 steps away.

Q
 
lead being too soft is at or near the bottom of the list of reasons you get leading in this modern age. Improper bullet fit, and too hard lead are far more likely.

Elmer Keith developed the his famed Keith SWC and the heavy 44 special loads that paved the way for the 44 magnum with 16:1 alloy, which has a BHN of about 10.5 to 11.

As has been said more goes into it than just the hardness. Composition of the lead has an impact as well. Higher tin content leads less.

If you have leading slug the bore of your gun to confirm that the bullets aren't undersize. If they are OK, then check to see if you can get the same velocity you desire with a faster powder. You want to be well up towards the max pressure, even if it is for less time, with bullets that hard.
 
Will I have a problem with leading with this hardness if I keep the velocities low?
There's only low velocity in the .45 acp but as mentioned leading can result from many reasons other than velocity and the harder cast will lead badly at low pressure/velocity unless the bore and bullet size is correct to allow proper seal.
 
Brinell Hardness Number (BHN) (or more simply, 1440 x BHN) as an estimate of the minimum peak pressure required for bullet obturation

This quote from the above article posted is the formula to figure the estimation of pressure to obturate a lead bullet.

How accurate does one think this formula is? This could be a huge help for me in an attempt to keep leading to a minimum with solid lead bullets of known hardness.
 
From an old Bullet Making Annual

BHN...Yield strength

5...7110
6...8532
7...9954
8...11376
9...12798
10...14220
11...15642
12...17064
13...18486
14...19908
15...21440
16...22752

A good guideline to start. In my experience it works well.
 
Let's do the math and see how it compares to that formula.

Using the formula


5...7200

8...11520

10...14400

12...17280

15...21600


Pretty close to that old chart.
 
Ugh, obturation, you don't need obturation if your boolit fits.

This is true. Unless you cast and size your own bullets it can be very hard to find bullets that are larger than the average size. If one does find them they are usually a custom order which will usually cost a bit more. But I do agree with the comment to an extent. The drawback to this is with a revolver's forcing cone. In my case I would not even dare to shoot bullets as big as my forcing cone in my SP101. This is actually usually where most my leading accurs, and yes my cylinder is in perfect alignment with my bore. I get the leading around the entire diameter of the focing cone in equal quantities all the way around. Which tells me that I'm getting flame cutting at this point.
 
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This is true. Unless you cast and size your own bullets it can be very hard to find bullets that are larger than the average size

Which is why most people equate lead bullets with leading.

In order to get bullets that will chamber in most guns, the commercial cast bullets are undersized for most guns.

The consumer, fearing leading, starts with very light loads, which don't obturate the bullet and bump it up to fit the bore. The consumers fears are confirmed, they have leading. But they are incorrect that the leading is because the bullet is not hard enough. In reality it is due to poor fit and a bullet that is already too hard for the light load they tried.

The consumer demands harder bullets, which are even less likely to obturate and fit the bore properly. Eventually the bullets are so hard that at safe handgun pressure levels, you can't get the bullet to obturate.

At this point, the consumer joins the club that perpetuates the mantra that lead bullets are a headache and not worth the effort.

I cast my own bullets. Early on I had leading issues in my 10mm. Then, one day I went to the range with some new loads. Instead of light loads with Blue Dot, I was testing some Unique, loaded for similar velocities to my Blue Dot practice loads. The faster powder gave a higher peak pressure, and my leading went away.

Upon educating myself, I found a couple of things. First, my gun's bore is oversize, slugging at .401. I no longer size my bullets, or water quench them to increase the hardness (yes, there is antimony in the alloy). I get no leading.
 
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