Security-Six Problem

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Confederate

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I don't know what's causing this, but my 4-inch Security-Six catches in double action, just before it lets off. In other words, it builds up a resistance, then breaks and fires. I've polished the parts and, when the cylinder is out, the action is fine. Only when the cylinder is in does it build, hold and break.

This isn't enough to make the gun inoperable in any way; it's just that my other Rugers don't do this. As I see it, it must have something to do with the hand and the ratchet. It's not enough to make me send it back to Ruger, but if someone has an idea on how to fix it, please let me know. It has to be hanging up on something -- just where?


RUGERSecurity-Six4-inch_3.gif
 
Sounds normal to me, kinda like "stacking." Near as I can tell, normal for a DA.

What other Rugers do you have that you're comparing it to?
 
I can feel mine (4") stacking up a bit (just tried it), but it doesn't catch.
 
Is the gun clean under extractor star, face of cylinder? Does it happen when the gun is hot, cold, or anytime?
 
It may be the cylinder stop. It's happening all the time and I have about four other Ruger Six guns to compare it to. I have a Speed-Six that has a wonderful trigger. My Security-Six gets to that point and then it just tightens up. Pull it harder and then it breaks. I know this is supposed to happen to a very light extent, but this is excessive. The gun can still be shot double action, but it's just a bit of a pain.
 
Check if the screw for the cylinder release ( under the recoil shield) is screwed in properly. Mine had been loose on a SP 101 and caused a similiar problem. I had even suspected the transfer bar to be the cause and it took me a while to figure that one out.
 
Is the "catch" enough to interrupt or interfere with a proper DA pull or just a mild stacking? There are a LOT of things that can create this. However if you do not get it with the cyl. out it is pretty much a cylinder/hand issue. As I recall the hand is supposed to sit back in the window cut between 1/16th of an inch to flush. More or less than that can create a problem. Could also be a cyl. latch problem. The gun looks nice and is worth what it takes to pull it around.

The Kuhnhausen book is good on these, and I have the Ruger armorer's notes. Sometimes these things can drive you nuts, and one gun had to go back in to the factory twice before it was right. Revolvers are a lot more complex than most people think.
 
I have a Service Six DAO (former NYPD gun according to Ruger). It has what I would call a plateau where the trigger can be moved a detectable amount while the hammer is in the maximum "cocked" position before the hammer is released. (There is no actual full cock detent on this gun, not even if manually cocked - just one smooth pull with the plateau at the end). There is no perceptible increased pressure required on the trigger at this point. My gun does not build up more resistance as the trigger approaches the release point. Could the problem be due to wear?
 
It might be interesting to swap out parts with your other Rugers and see what happens. Maybe a single part replacement would do the trick.

(label parts with a Sharpie to make sure they go back to the same gun)
 
The stacking is a minor problem. If a gunsmith said he could fix it for $50, I'd just live with it as it is. On the other hand, my Speed-Six has a delightful action, smooth and like ice. Some people have said it's the only Ruger action they've seen that's substantially better than a Smith.

In a way, I like it to catch a little; it's just that it's a bit too much. If I just pull the trigger in rapid fire I can do it okay, but it's just not anything like my Speed-Six.

Speed-Six_3.gif
 
This should probably be in the gunsmithing forum.
That said, your yoke may be tweaked out of alignment with the frame which could cause the cylinder to bind. Easily checked by a competent smith with a yoke alignment gage. If so, gentle adjustment with the proper yoke alignment tool will correct both the misalignment and the binding.
 
Yes, but again, my competent gunsmith has a $60 minimum. It used to be that I could have a Colt Python re-timed for $20. When people complained of the Python's tiny pawl that quickly wore down and caused the gun to spit, others would say it only cost twenty bucks to re-time; but no more!

I wish there were more "do-it-yourself" web pages for various revolvers, but there aren't. I had a friend who learned how to cut 11° forcing cones using a Brownell's kit. He told me the trick was in not overdoing it. Use lubrication, pull and twist, he said. He cut one for me and did a great job. I have enough revolvers that I should just buy a reamer for something like that.

Maybe I should ask this in the Gunsmith Forum....
 
Do ask there... It was only luck that I noticed your post.
Several good smiths hang out there and will likely reply. I have the tools and do my own. The Kuhnhausen manual for Ruger Double Actions should be in your library given that you own several. Even if you have no desire to do your own work, the reference material will come in very handy and you will understand your gun much better. I own several Security/Speed/Police Service Sixes as well as Redhawks and Single action Rugers and really enjoy them.
 
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