Ruger Security-Six: Action Sticking

[Confederate]

I put this in the revolver section and was told I might want to try here.

I don't know what's causing this, but my 4-inch Security-Six catches in double action, just before it lets off. In other words, it builds up a resistance, then breaks and fires. I've polished the parts and, when the cylinder is out, the action is fine. Only when the cylinder is in does it build, hold and break.

This isn't enough to make the gun inoperable in any way; it's just that my other Rugers don't do this. (I have a Speed-Six that has a magnificent action.) As I see it, it must have something to do with the hand and the ratchet. It's not enough to make me send it back to Ruger, but if someone has an idea on how to fix it, please let me know. It has to be hanging up on something -- just where?



While I'm at it, I've bought a few Millett front sights for these
guns, and the tough drills I use don't seem to want to go through the blade
material. I drill, drill, drill, drill, drill, drill and it's barely scratched.

Very frustrating.

Thanks!

.

 

[BBBBill]

Link to original post

Dfariswheel, Old Fuff, RC Model, Jim Keenan, etc may have some good input for you.
Guys here's the original post -
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=479605

 

[rcmodel]

I've polished the parts and

Was the problem there before you "polished the parts"?

If not, that right there might be your problem!

It's very hard to diagnose a problem like this over the internet, but it would seem related to the hand either being reduced in length or width during the polishing project?

rc

 

[Confederate]

Yes, ever since I got the gun. I'm used to there being a slight hangup, like a clutch on a car, but this is just a bit excessive. I didn't polish the hand/pawl, and the polishing made it a bit better, not worse. I can still double action fire it very well; it's just that it's not quite normal for this type of gun.

When the cylinder is out, the function is like glass. No hangup of the pawl as it moves within its slot. Lockup is tight and there's very little give. I'm thinking of replacing the cylinder latch and seeing if that helps. Other than that, it probably would require yoke adjustment. It's still a great gun, but when I cock it, I can feel it begin to tighten up just before it goes into battery.

 

[BBBBill]

Confederate, I'm extremely suspicious of the yoke at this point. A yoke gage will tell you quickly whether the yoke is out of alignment. That alone can cause what you are experiencing. Use a range rod to check cylinder/barrel alignment. Inspect the trigger housing assembly for burrs/evidence of binding/or misfitting. Check the end of the yoke for squareness and check cylinder runout/wobble on the yoke. Check for smooth rotation with the cylinder/yoke out of the frame. With the cylinder/yoke installed, check to see if the face of the cylinder is binding on the back of the barrel as it moves toward/into lockup. Also, check the hand window in the frame for burrs. Careful here. Removing metal from the hand or window could very easily do a couple things-
1)fool you into believing the problem is solved,
2)and create too much slop in the fit that might only become evident later when you figure out that the yoke or something else was the real problem.

A Ruger specific yoke gage and 38/357 range rod w/handle will cost you $66 + shipping from Brownells. Not a bad thing to have in your tool box if you own several revolvers, even if you take your repair needs to someone else. The nylon wedge for adjusting the yoke is another $15. You might not want one of those if you don't plan on making your own repairs or you can make one out of wood for cheap.

 

[NCsmitty]

Apply some rearward thumb pressure on the front of the yoke while you DA the empty cylinder and see if it is binding on the barrel.


NCsmitty

 

[Confederate]

Thanks, guys. The cylinder is not binding on the barrel, as the gun already is in battery at the time of the build up. I've checked the alignment of the chambers with the barrel and that, too, is solid. I'm also leery of removing any metal from the pawl, period.

As for the other things, I searched Brownell's for the Ruger yoke gauge and couldn't find it using the search function. I'm going to get out the gun tomorrow and see if I can spot anything that I missed; also to check out some of the other things mentioned. I've checked the slot, or window, for burrs, but that, too, was a no go, but I'll check it again. There's gotta be something that's doing it, and I suspect it's in the cylinder.