Remove a light Rail from Polymer Frame?

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HoosierQ

HoosierQ

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I realize this will vary from gun to gun but would that be safe to do, structurally speaking? The guns I'd be most interested in doing that to would be a Ruger P345 and a S&W M&P 9c. Both would be much more sleek without that darned rail...I hate rails...I rail against rails...but what do I know.

Folks stipple and do things of that sort. Anybody ever removed a rail? I would thing sanding would work well enough or dremel...who knows?
 
I would not advise doing this, not only would you void any type of factory warranty but you might really take away two much of the frame and render your handgun unsafe and unreliable.. I say dont do it.. Yes I have heard of people stippling Polymer but your talking about removing material from the frame... If the rail bothers you that much sell it and buy a gun without a rail...
 
I'm on the other side of Coltdude84's fence, with absolutely no disrespect intended. Your talking about removing material from the dust cover, which not a critical structural support for recoil forces. It's an appendage. You could remove the dust cover completely and experience no adverse affects, it's function is to limit the entry of debis into the internal mechanisms of the pistol.

Lots of owners have done this.
 
post your results if you do it, because i'm very interested.

i would suggest you take a pair of calipers and carefully measure the thickness of the frame in the areas that you are considering taking down...unless you like ventilation holes in your dustcover...also consider how you would blend it into the front of the trigger guard

i have seen the rail removed from a couple of Sig stainless steel pistols and it takes more work than you would think to get that "smooth" bottomed look
 
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schmeky - i'm referring to the remaining "ledge" behind the rail area, after rail removal, where the frame thickens above the forward attachment of the triggerguard.

a mill seems like a good idea too, but then you assume that the polymer frame of the M&P is true
 
On most, I'd take it to my belt grinder and have at it. Some may be an exception...
 
9mm,

Yea, I see what you're saying. That area may reguire careful use of graduated sanding drums, perhaps. There is also a cone shaped sanding drum that I have used in the past to port cylinder heads for race cars that would probably work well.
 
Sometimes, molded parts will have unseen "voids" in what appear to be solid areas. You might find that kind of surprise as you grind off material. That would have to be filled to look decent.

Good to see I'm not the only one to not appreciate "luggage racks" on pistols.
I have one on my Beretta 90-Two, but I can't see it from where I stand.

Jeff
 
and it might make it harder to find a holster tha fits right.

if you don't have a need for the rail, then don't use it, but i don't think you shoul remove it al together. I personally use weapon mounted lights so they are well used on my guns.
 
A light rail does no harm.
The issue you have is cosmetic and altering the firearm frame is never a good idea.

Engineers have designed it to function correctly as is and excessive modifications to a frame can lead to all kinds of malfunction issues.
 
I think Possum is correct on the holster issue. You may be stuck with an Uncle Mike's nylon holster. Good luck selling it if you ever decide to. What I would do to get rid of a useless light rail.....put a light on in and make it useful.:neener:
 
HoosierQ I am with you buddy, I really dislike accessory rails as well. If someone has a practical need for the rail, like a light or laser, then God bless. But for me they're eyesores that ruin the appearance of guns.

I think trying to remove the rail from a polymer frame will be more trouble than it's worth. The way I deal with the rail situation is to not buy any gun that has one. :)
 
There was actually a member on one of the forums I'm active on who did exactly this to a M&P. I just tried to find it again but couldn't. He had good results, but there was some danger involved in the process IIRC.
 
I don't know about removing the rail on a polymer gun, like some have said you could open up a void, and then you would have a hole where there was none before. Depending on rail I think I would try filling in the area and make smooth, using something like JB Weld and then find a modeling paint to match the guns color. I personally wouldn't do anything and just live with it, or buy a different pistol that doesn't have a rail. LM
 
Who is going to make a warranty claim on a gun that they dremeled the bejeezus out of?

Hey man, its your gun.
I say go for it if you really want.
If you ruin it, Glock will probably help you out - on your dime.

Myself, I wouldn't do it.
Plenty of guns out there without the rail your can trade for.
 
is it really that big of a problem? if its completely aesthetic id say dont do it. its un-nessisary, its not like its getting caught on stuff when your drawing it
 
I would caution against it for these reasons:

1. Resale value
2. Possible hidden bubbles in the molded plastic (which is why I've been reluctant to bob the beavertail on my full size M&P40)
3. Molded holsters may not fit right
4. Possible compromise of frame integrity
5. I have an M&P40c that is my daily carry, and is fitted with a Streamlight TLR-3 as an HD gun when I come home.:)

As others have said, If you don't need the rail, don't use it.
 
I don't think voids would be the issue here. I could be wrong, but I think the issue would be that there are alloy supports inside the polymer and you could end up grinding into one of those. Then you'd have a big hunk a' metal hanging out.
 
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