Oil(s): What's IN it/them? What's "Acceptable"?

Motor oil is thicker than gun oil, that means it will not flow into crevices like gun oil will, and as it warms up it gets thicker so it will become less efficient at lubrication while your gun it hot from shooting (not that it would be necessarily anything to consider).

you may however run into problems with the detergents and other additives in motor oil (a 'pure' oil like Mystik would not have this problem) as I could see additives clogging the tiny parts of a firearm and enhancing foulingThough this would not be a problem if you are just oiling the barrel.

BreakFree CLP and EEZOX are probably the two best out there on the market today, BreakFree CLP is imho the best of the two, it contains a lubricant, cleaner, and protectant, and is designed for firearms.

personally I'd try to find the money in the budget for a large bottle of the stuff, it should last you a while.

Gconn,

I hate jumping into lube threads, it often turns into battles... BUT...

I used to run synthetic motor oils in all my guns, duty/CCW and competition. My cold weather testing down to -20/-25F gave me superb reliability, NO PROBLEMS and it lubed well. (oil where it needed to be). Since my summers are filled with training and such, I used the same oils for all my 1911s/ARs (and others) with no problems/issues or malfunctions. Thousands upon thousands of rounds fired.

Most of the oils used were Mobil 1/Redline/Amsoil.

NOTE: I am now using SLIP 2000 damn near exclusively in my guns. My testing gave me the same results in cold weather and wear while shooting. (I work in the cold northeast where my exposed duty gun can and will get wet and freeze, hence my testing).

Hope this helps!

Andy

Motor oil is thicker than gun oil, that means it will not flow into crevices like gun oil will, and as it warms up it gets thicker so it will become less efficient at lubrication while your gun it hot from shooting (not that it would be necessarily anything to consider).

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Generally, this used to be mostly true prior to modern oil developments. I started using synthetics (Mob 1) in the 70's. "Gun Oil" is not a type of oil. It's (usually) a petroleum based oil refined and combined with other ingredients to be marketed for firearms lubrication.

I use different oils and lubricants in different parts of my guns. CLP is basically a 'penetrating' oil that does spread quickly through all the fine holes, springs and crevices (like trigger/sear group). In higher friction areas (like slide rails) some prefer a little heavier film of oil or light grease. Modern synthetic motor oils with viscosity weights of (0-90) can also be effective in all these areas. Most synthetics will withstand a much wider range of temperatures and reduce friction/wear better than most common motor oils.

Dry lubes like Militek are designed to work in the hot/cumbustion areas (inside and outside the barrel, feed ramp and bushing area)s while not picking up dirt or combustion residue.

All of these have a 'following', because it works in their guns. Your gun and your preferences are what matters.

After I change the oil in my vehicles, I turn the "Empty" Mobil 1 containers upside down over another container and get enough oil to lube all my guns/reloading press and gate hinges for a long time.

Hey guys, don't you'al know REAL GUN OIL is made using secret formulas handed down from father to son using top secret highly rare ingredients found only in the most remotest area of the universe. All this is compiled by highly skilled and trained elves using the best of old world equipment in hidden labs in the blackest areas of the Black Forest.

In researching this I've learned there is some cracker bakeries very near these labs.

Hope this all helps.
jcwit

Probably all one would ever want to read on both sides of that fence...
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=291494
/Bryan

I really like the Slip2000 and Tetra products.

That said most "gun" lubricants are repackaged automotive products with a markup to match to sophistication of the graphics on the packaging.

I'll never use motor oil again. I soaked an old, crusty revolver in motor oil once, then cleaned it real good (or so I thought.). A day later I came in the house and thought I smelled dog crap. Bottom of my shoes looked clean, carpet, nothing there. My nose led me to the box I put the gun it. It stank!

Working for a major oil company, internally we find it fascinating that some company can buy feed stocks from us, repackage it down from barrels to onzs and increase the price per onz by orders of magnitude.

Me? I use Mobil 1 and have for years. No problems yet.

I also shoot mostly older, pre-WWII revolvers that somehow have survived decades of use with out the modern wonder lubes. One has to wonder how they ever made it?

I still remember lubing my guns as a kid with oil of the dipstick of the IH and it worked well. Still have the guns and still no problems.

"repackage it down from barrels to onzs and increase the price per onz by orders of magnitude."
They've got to pay for all those itty bitty bottles somehow.

Motor oil is thicker than gun oil, that means it will not flow into crevices like gun oil will, and as it warms up it gets thicker so it will become less efficient at lubrication while your gun it hot from shooting (not that it would be necessarily anything to consider).

Click to expand...

motor oil, whether regular or multi-grade will not get "thicker"as it heats up. this is a common misconception of motor oils. multi-grade oils start out at whatever viscosity the first number is (as in 5 of 5w30). the manufacturer adds in modifiers to keep the oil from thinning out so much, thus the 30 rating in 5w30. in theory anyway, 5w30 starts out @ 5 weight oil when it is cold. as the oil gets hot, the additives (modifiers) keep the oil from thinning as much as 5 weight oil would otherwise. and the (at least theoreticly) result is oil that has the same viscosity as 30 weight motor oil when hot. there are some very specialized (expensive) lubricants that do actually get thicker as they heat. but it is not motor oil.



gun oil = 3 in 1 oil, with a few additives. period. at least thats my story, and i am sticking to it. personally, my oil is 0w20 mobil one. period. how much thinner can you get than "0"wt? mobil one will flow when it is so cold, you will never be out there. a quart of it will last excatly one day short of eternity. it will lubricate any part of your gun that requires oil, and some that do not. i use it, so it must be the absoloute best on the planet. i see no further reason for discussion!

I'd like to find the source for the goodsmell that the micro bottlers use in their oil to add to my Mobil 1. Eau De 3in1 would be mighty nice.

Lots of oil info out on the Net. The only problem I have with sythetics is cold flow. They do not usually have the same surface tension as petro-lubes. That surface tension is what helps maintain the film while sitting. SOME synthetics will cold flow away from surfaces to the lowest point and you loose your film thickness.

In my 50+ years of shooting, I see most gun oils as "bright stock" bought from a major refiner without additives. Some get dye colors, some get additives like zinc to help with metal to metal contact, etc. Problem is that US EPA has ordered the reduction in zinc and moly in motor oil that used to work for cold start cam lobe protection, so new motor oils are not nearly as good as ones from even 10 years ago in this one aspect Same for older gun oils I think? Zinc reduction is not good for us

Guns have the same problem that sewing machines and turntables have. Bearings sit idle for weeks and then have to spin-up reliably. Ours don't usually spin, but they rotate and sometimes under pretty heavy loads. Therefor I use the same oils for each - Browning gun Oil. It does not dry out over a period of a year, it's clear so I know there are no bad dyes. For sliding parts I like GunSlick (light grease w/ graphite) but many folks don't as it can get things "graphite dirty" - but it sure lasts and is slick.

For dry film protection I use Boe-Shield TO9. Developed for the landing struts on aircraft that get doused with de-icing fluids, runway debris, etc. Spray it on and let it dry. You will not be able to rub it off. Pricey, but hey a can ought to last about 25 years

OBTW - one of the 3in1 oils is a semi drying oil, the other is not. One will gum up after a while, and the other will not. I THINK it's RED that is bad and BLUE that is OK. I need help here, but this is older common knowledge. I just avoid the issue by not using either

"Problem is that US EPA has ordered the reduction in zinc and moly in motor oil that used to work for cold start cam lobe protection, so new motor oils are not nearly as good as ones from even 10 years ago in this one aspect Same for older gun oils I think? Zinc reduction is not good for us"
And as most engines now have roller lifter cams, the zinc isn't necessary. It was never necessary in a gun, as no part in a gun has the stress on it that a flat tappet cam does.

"Guns have the same problem that sewing machines and turntables have. Bearings sit idle for weeks and then have to spin-up reliably. Ours don't usually spin, but they rotate and sometimes under pretty heavy loads. Therefor I use the same oils for each - Browning gun Oil. It does not dry out over a period of a year, it's clear so I know there are no bad dyes."
Any oil that provides decent boundary layer lubrication will do the trick. The boundary layer should remain for at least 3 months with anything on the market today (either gun or automotive).
There is no such thing as "bad dyes". Over time, ANY oil will dry out - they all have some sort of volatile component in them. Some are worse than others, the synthetics are the best for lessening this problem.

1 part marvels mystery oil, 1 part full synthetic transmission fluid, 1 part 10W 30.

this combo has been highly reliable even when temps reach down to -30s, you can keep adding marvels mystery oil if you prefer thinner oil. I have used this for my guns and reloading gear for 4 years so far without any failures, stuck cases. I even use the same fluid for breaking rust off old tools that are seized. this stuff will pretty much break rust up and disolve it.